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| Chevelle Tech Current Topic: C Clip eliminators or not? | ||
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| Performance Our High Performance area |
| View Poll Results: To have c clip eliminators installed or not? | |||
| Yes |
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105 | 57.69% |
| No |
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77 | 42.31% |
| Voters: 182. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#1
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I have heard that they can leak and wear out prematurely with regular street use. Is is good insurance to have them installed or not? How many of you guys have them or recommend them?
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2 wrongs don't make a right but 3 lefts do!! http://www.cardomain.com/id/chevydog66 The new 406 is done!!! 66 Chevelle Malibu 406ci sbc all motor 10.92 @ 123mph, 1.50 60', 3440lbs. 72 GMC Super Custom 1500 96 Chevy Silverado Z71 00 Haulmark 24' trailer |
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#2
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With a ten bolt rear? Why waste the money?
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Sean Thomas 1978 Chevy Malibu 10.49@128mph, 1.44 60' 1986 Buick Grand National 3.8 liter SFI Turbo The maserati of the trailer park! |
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#3
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No not a 10 bolt. I am getting a new 12 bolt built for my car.
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2 wrongs don't make a right but 3 lefts do!! http://www.cardomain.com/id/chevydog66 The new 406 is done!!! 66 Chevelle Malibu 406ci sbc all motor 10.92 @ 123mph, 1.50 60', 3440lbs. 72 GMC Super Custom 1500 96 Chevy Silverado Z71 00 Haulmark 24' trailer |
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#4
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You shouldn't need them on a 12 bolt.
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#5
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as everything else, it depends on usage and horsepower-if its mainly a street car, i would get the c-clip aftermarket axels, around $200 and their a little better than 35 year old axels-serious track stuff, then theirs a better chance of breaking an axel, and w/o c-clip eliminators and if you were to break an axel, you could have damage-you might want to look into one of the new 12 bolts, weigh that cost against buying an orig 12 bolt, adding axels, changing gears, rebuilding posi, etc-your gonna be close
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when your credit cards are maxed, have the limits raised |
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#6
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If you're having a rear "built" then go with the Ford ends (Moser carries). Bearing is pressed on to axel shaft and retained by a bolt on plate.
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Doug G.-406ci Camaro Pics AKA: RedЯum 1.643 - 60' 7.511 @ 91.33 -660' 11.823 @ 113.52 -1320' |
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#7
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As Doug said, if you are buying a brand new rear, have them install Ford Style housing ends.
Moser offers them with a Chevy 4-bolt pattern so your brakes will fit with only minimal grinding to allow removal of the axles. C-clips are dangerous, regulardless of the type of rear, i've seen alot of damage done by those who choose to use them. Most cars that break a c-clip ruin the quarter panel and bang up the frame under the side of the car from landing and sliding on it. Some are worse, if they break the c-clip slightly after the starting line and are going at some speed, they usually head for the wall. The safety of the guy in the driver seat and that of the car and driver next to him are the most important thing. At the shop i work at, safety is the primary function of design. I've over-engineered my own drivetrain. Ford housing ends on a 12-bolt. 1350 u-joints and a Denny's Nitrous Ready driveshaft and 1/2" studs. Round tube 4130 driveshaft loop triangulated at the mounts. Doing it again, i would have went with 5/8" drive-studs and at probably 33 spline axles. |
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#8
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If the car will have sticky tires and/or makes decent power, I would suggest c-clip eliminators.10 or 12 bolt doesn't matter, if the axle breaks or the cross pin wears you will have a wheel trying to exit the car. I ran Moser c-clip eliminators on the street for several years before I sold the car and as far as I know they are still holding up fine. Sure the better option is ford housing ends, but your budget and ability are the limiting factors. If you are just trying to make your present rear end safer, then go with eliminators. It's easy for other people to spend your money. I have yet to hear anyone on here give a reason not to use eliminators or anyone that has had problems with them.
If you are starting from scratch and building a new rear end or looking to buy one, then by all means get large Ford ends. |
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#9
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Doug G.-406ci Camaro Pics AKA: RedЯum 1.643 - 60' 7.511 @ 91.33 -660' 11.823 @ 113.52 -1320' |
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#10
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I've got a Strange Engineering c clip eliminator kit. It was leaking into the right rear drum, after I replaced the seal, o-ring, and siliconed the mounting areas I've got no leaks. I think mine are the stock axles, with this kit installed. I will have to do regular maint., to make sure I don't trash another set of drum shoes. I will keep installed though, for the safety aspect. Daren
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#11
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if your having the rear built do as the other man suggest get the ford ends or the olds ends whitch ever you perfer it will be cheaper than the c clip eliminators and you will never regret it
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alan , gadsden ala. 66 chevelle bracket car best 6.95 in 1/8th big block now 67 nova bracket car best 6.739 in 1/8th 1.429 60ft at 100.45mph 400 sb |
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#12
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Whatever you decide to do, I would not use c-clips at all. I have the c-clip eliminators on my car but it is not a street car. I like the idea of using axles with the pressed on bearings.
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Ray http://www.dragtimes.com/1970-Chevro...ures-7479.html Best pass so far 9.089 at 146.78, 1.266 60'. |
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#13
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Quote:
Yeah...the only way to go!! Got plenty of street miles on mine.
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'67 Malibu 4dr Sedan, w/ 460 cu,TH400 & 3.73 12 bolt posi '69 SS 396 w/original L35, TH400, 3.07 12 bolt, factory A/C Team Chevelle #613 ACES #3920 A.M.C. of Ireland #113 CanAm Chevelles #136 Carolina Chevelles #185 Heart Of Dixie #231 Long Island Chevelles #102 |
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#14
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Quote:
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#15
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isnt that what i'm advising?
Keep in mind, the cars that we're talking about here arent 1200hp shoot-out cars. The car in question is a 12.00 ride, and the one i drive is an 11.30 ride. Brian |
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