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  #1  
Old Dec 27th, 12, 9:17 PM
Richard/SIA Richard/SIA is offline
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Default I just bought a virgin for $200!

Virgin 1965 327, Std. bore and crank journals, it's never been touched by a machine shop!

Bearings actually look like you could put them back in, so I guess the oil got changed occasionally.
Came out of a 65 El Camino, factory 4V carb, flat top pistons.
I can probably decode exactly what it is tomorrow when I will have some light to work by.
Not sure if I will use this block or my 4-bolt.
Small journal crank, but the thick bearings are available.

So it looks like I'm committed to a short stroke engine, sorry 383" guys.

I suppose one of the first things to do is mic. the bores.
I'm hoping I can get pistons less than .030 oversize.
I hate to bore any engine any more than necessary.
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  #2  
Old Dec 27th, 12, 10:35 PM
burrodebo burrodebo is offline
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You got a good one. Those early 27s are what I would want (small journals). Cool deal. Build it to rev!

Bo
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  #3  
Old Dec 28th, 12, 1:16 AM
Richard/SIA Richard/SIA is offline
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Default Re: I just bought a virgin for $200!

If I have done my homework correctly the early cranks are forged.

What I would LIKE to do, and what I can afford are a probably bit different.
Would prefer a 3-2's FI setup, prices are crazy.

Want roller lifters, pretty sure thats an expensive upgrade for the early block, but necessary.
Also have a 4-bolt 350 block, but I think the lifter upgrade would be the same cost.

Going to need after-market aluminum heads, but probably not the biggest valves or ports.
I may try for hollow stem valves.

Not sure if the Edelbrock Pro-Flo FI upgraded with a MegaSquirt III control will suffice for the 7,000 usable RPM I want?

Hope to use a few tricks on the crank and oil system for quicker revs.

Not interested in drag race, more like instant acceleration from a 65+ MPH rolling start.
Want 130+ top speed.
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Old Dec 28th, 12, 6:56 AM
Busted Knuckles Busted Knuckles is offline
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Default Re: I just bought a virgin for $200!

Find a 283 steel crank and you'll have a 302!
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'Cause if they catch you in the back seat trying to pick her locks,
They're gonna send you back to mother in a cardboard box...
You better run!
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  #5  
Old Dec 28th, 12, 11:09 AM
ChevelleFan70 ChevelleFan70 is offline
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Default Re: I just bought a virgin for $200!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard/SIA View Post
Not sure if the Edelbrock Pro-Flo FI upgraded with a MegaSquirt III control will suffice for the 7,000 usable RPM I want?
I'm pretty sure it will suffice. You might need to verify how many lb/hr your current injectors are and what your new setup will require.

-Dave
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  #6  
Old Dec 28th, 12, 4:33 PM
Tom Mobley Tom Mobley is offline
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Default Re: I just bought a virgin for $200!

Don't use any tricks on the crank and oil system. It doesn't need any.

>>> "Would prefer a 3-2's FI setup, prices are crazy." Are you just making stuff up? 3-2's FI setup? carbs are carbs, FI is FI, you can't run both at the same time.

The 350/383 will do everything better than the 327.

there is absolutely nothing to be gained from hollow stem valves, are you getting this stuff out of old car magazines?

You want instant acceleration build a 383 out of the 350 block. Forget the 327 romance, torque is what it takes to twist a driveshaft. With a similar build the 383 will have 50 lbs more torque. That's enough to make a real difference.
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  #7  
Old Dec 28th, 12, 5:38 PM
Richard/SIA Richard/SIA is offline
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Default Re: I just bought a virgin for $200!

Quote:
Are you just making stuff up? 3-2's FI setup? carbs are carbs, FI is FI, you can't run both at the same time.
There are a couple of companies offering 3-2's throttle body set-ups to work with FI, prices ARE crazy.
Mostly used by hot rods for a vintage look and easy tuning.
There are also 2-4's FI sets but I don't think they actually work any better than a single 4V on a good manifold.

Cost to wind up a 350 to a sustained 7K rpm are higher than a 327.
327 is plenty for putting around town and I'm not drag racing.
327 will wind up quickly at any speed.
Unlike most guys I run triple digit speeds for long distances, not just a few seconds.

The guys who still think there is no replacement for displacement never tried to outrun a Lamborghini.

Quote:
The 350/383 will do everything better than the 327.
Including suck gas!
My '68 El Camino came with a 327 and I am not pleased with the current 400.

This is not the first V8 engine I have built, but it may be my last.

Just looked at the crank, I'm always dismayed at how rough Chevy parts are compared to my Alfa-Romeo, Triumph, etc.
It will need some cleanup at the least.

Did get the casting and pad numbers looked up.
Confirms 1965 327 250 HP 4V carb and Powerglide.

Heads are not 2.02, think they are 1.94.
Suppose I will keep them for now, hoping to upgrade once I know what size runners and valves I want.
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  #8  
Old Dec 28th, 12, 11:31 PM
burrodebo burrodebo is offline
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How are you going to outrun a Lambo when a 327 wants gear? Not busting your ballz, as I am learning like everyone else, but the traditional recipe for a short stroke is a ton of compression, a ton of cam, and a ton of gear.

Buck 30 with 456s will take what, 7500-8000 RPM? Just guessing.

Please explain. Again, not disagreeing, just asking what you have in mind with a 3.25" throw, 50 year old motor. It better be more than fuel injection and a roller cam. Bo
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  #9  
Old Dec 29th, 12, 2:38 AM
Richard/SIA Richard/SIA is offline
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Default Re: I just bought a virgin for $200!

Never said I plan to outrun a Lambo, just that they run small engines and still outrun big engine Chevrolets any time they want.
Knew a guy who had two of them, he was always amazed at the vehicles other drivers would challenge him with.

Ran the gear calculator, with my current gears and tires I should be good for 130 mph pretty easily, might switch to 3.54's for a bit more, or the same more easily.
Considering overdrive.
It's Escalades, Hummers, trucks, and other moving walls I do not want to be stuck behind.

Definitely more than FI and roller cam.
Looking at 65cc chamber aluminum heads, need to figure ideal valves size and runner volume.
Don't want to just go big and bigger, then the engine would be dead below 6000 rpm.
Planning minimum 10-1 compression now, need a crystal ball to know what fuel will be available down the road.
If we are going to be forced to run strait Methanol might as well go for 13-1, if the octane gets cut, have to go lower than 10-1.
Probably forged pistons, looks like they will have to be custom ordered.
Want 6" rods too.

I did stick the FI on the block to confirm that the road-draft tube is not an issue, and it's fine.

Found a fiberglass tilt front fairly cheap, so of course it is at the opposite side of the country.
Hope to find ways to remove some weight as well as build the engine.

Hot engines and mileage tend to be mutually exclusive, but a smaller engine stands a better chance than a large one around town where too much of my driving will be done.
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