Team Chevelle banner

End of my rope with T-56 Hydraulic clutch problems in 72

9K views 35 replies 5 participants last post by  brettallen59 
#1 · (Edited)
Man O Man! I just don't have a clue what I'm doing and I have searched and searched for someone that had the same problems but struck out. sure hope someone out there can help.
I have a 72 Chevelle 454, built, with 6-71. I am trying to get it rolling but I'm having clutch issues. What I have is a pull-type clutch with the correct T/O bearing and the correct (I Think!) (Brand new) Slave and master. I just took out the used master and slave because it acted like it wasn't dis-engaging. The travel was wrong and I didn't have the new "Nub" that comes with the new slave. Now the new slave has a strap that holds the piston collapsed. I thought you are supposed to leave that like it comes, install it, (I bled all the air out) and when you push on the clutch for the first time, it breaks the strap and positions itself into the clutch fork and then your done, Right? well that didn't work. It still didn't feel right and then when I pushed hard to break the strap, it broke the master push rod (bent it in two). I began having problems because the push rod on the master was too long and did not want to line up on my clutch pedal arm. I read where the rod has been cut and threaded to make it adjustable, so I thought that was the solution, but it still seemed to have the same feel of pedal. Tomorrow I will remove the slave to see if the strap broke away like I thought it was supposed to. I am at a loss. I don't know what else to try. I wish there was someone that has done this before on this same car that can tell me "you don't have the right clutch pedal" or something like that.....Man o Man!
P.S; The pic shows an old flywheel. I bought a brand new aluminum Fidanza Flywheel with insert. The disk and P/P are used....

Wire Electrical wiring Tire Cable Auto part


Wire Electrical wiring Cable Technology Electronic device


Wire Cable Technology Electronic device Auto part


Auto part Clutch part Rim Wheel Clutch


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Bumper Automotive exterior
 
See less See more
5
#2 ·
If your using the LT1 clutch hydraulic master/slave kit from GM they are pre-bled at the factory, no need to do them again. The strap on the slave is meant to break when you use the clutch for the first time.
Are you sure you have the clutch fork properly seated on the throwout bearing? There is two positions for the fork, the first one has the fork pulled away from the clutch to allow the trans to slide into the bellhousing properly. The second position requires you to push the fork in after the trans/ bellhousing is bolted up.
Also, did you use the retaining ring on the throwout bearing?

John
 
#3 · (Edited)
I bought the slave from Oreillys, and I had to fill it with fluid, so the instructions said to hold it at a 45 degree angle. I put the line and the master all together and I meant that I just made sure that I insured that after I put it all together there was no air in it. I did not know that they were pre-bled. As far as the retaining ring, yes, I put the clip that looked like a pre-bent wire. As far as the fork, yes it is in the T/O bearing correctly, with the dimple in the fork positioned right in the middle of the opening for the slave. Will the pull-type clutch and the 93-97 Camaro clutch cable system work in my 72 Chevelle, and is it supposed to bolt right up to my clutch pedal? One other thing that I didn't mention was this car was a column shirt automatic. I bought a chrome, tilt steering column and a clutch-brake pair of pedals. Maybe they arent for my car? I mean, maybe I asked for one for a 72 Chevelle, and they gave my one for a 67. They went in easy enough. There seems to be a lot of resistance when I push on the pedal, and it does not go all the way to the floor. It stops about 3" from the floor. It's just the rod doesn't look to be perfectly aligned with where the cylinder bolts to the brake master bracket. Everything I've bought for this system has either been for a 93-97 Camaro, or a 72 Chevelle. With it being a pull-type clutch, I don't have the option to try the Z-bar type manual clutch, do I?
Thank you......
 
#4 ·
I think I've narrowed the problem down to the T/O bearing. With the fork snapped into position, it still has about 1/2" of play/slop in the direction of the input shaft. If it is slid over the throw out bearing and everything is correct, I would think it shouldn't have really any play in the direction of the input shaft, correct? Plus, when I removed the slave, it still had the strap connected to it, even though I had pushed on the clutch 7 or 8 times.
 
#5 ·
Clip the slave cylinder strips. Yes they should snap and it doesn't matter.
Also, once things are together, the TO bearing retaining clip, while helpful on assembly, doesn't matter.

One key thing to never forget: If the parts are installed in a way that mimics the 93-97 Camaro, they will work. So let's look at what's different (and actually matters.)

Your 1st picture appears to have a garbage angle to the master cylinder pushrod. I don't know if this is pre-break or post-break. I do know from experience w/ the F-body parts it's too much. I don't see mention of the adapter plate that lines up with the brake booster and aligns the master cylinder. I'm not personally vouching for them, but if you just bolted your master cylinder up, I doubt it's in a good place or at a good angle. If you don't have the time to measure an 84-02 F-body for angle or distances under-dash, and mill an adapter plate to make things work right, the plate might be a good idea for you.

Three core things matter for master cylinder mounting. The angle. It doesn't have to be perfect, so you're shooting for a starting angle of the pushrod / master similar to an 84-02 F-body. Next is the travel. There is 84-92 clutch pedal stud placement and 93-02 clutch pedal stud placement. The latter travels slightly less. Travel is travel. Distance from stud to pivot bolt however is not a guarantee of equal travel just because you have that matched. Third is the starting point or pedal pre-load. If the master cylinder piston travels to the top of the bore correctly, fluid from the reservoir will flow properly. If you get those correct, you'll have a great starting point for master cylinder functionality.

Next, quit hyperventilating about the lucy goosey fork and its slop. It's not a spring-loaded fork to bearing relationship, it is what it is.

If this is a new-to-you set-up, the fork travel (and it's intolerance to different dimensions of flywheels and discs) may rear it's ugly head. Evidence of this is the paint ground off your pressure plate. But get your master cylinder set up before worry about that, and post with updates.
 
#6 ·
Okay; I have the McLeod clutch pedal and master installed. I have the new slave installed. I have most, if not all of the air out-cause I feel a good pedal. This time I hear/felt the strap break, so I know the piston pushed out correctly. But here is the problem; I push the pedal down and after about 2", it acts like it want to get tight. It is about 2" from the floor-yet befor I hooked it up to the slave, it had a nice smooth pedal travel all the way to the floor. Felt like it was supposed to. It almost seems like where it is stopping, it is because something is stopping it at the pressure plate/release bearing. Like it is binding. This is the same feeling I had before I pushed on it hard enough where it bent my last master rod. Is it possible I have a pull-type clutch in a push-type tranny? If this was an LT-1 T-56 wouldn't I have to have swapped out the input shaft? If it is an LS-1 tranny, would it work with a Pull-type clutch. I have no clue who to ask these questions to. This is what I have;

6-Speed Trmec transmission with the following numbers;
1386-020
61DXA T043767 43767
12561561 A1763
1386-020F
27 Spline output

This is the flywheel I have. It is a Fidanza 198661:
Clutch part Auto part Rotor Tool accessory Automotive brake part


This is the clutch I have. It is a Pull-Type Clutch:
Clutch part Auto part Clutch Transmission part Automotive alternator


This is the clutch pedal I have. McLeod:
Auto part Arm Leg Automotive exterior Bicycle accessory


The Bell Housing I have came off a 1997 Z-28. All the parts fit just fine together. No interference. Pilot bearing went in just fine and pilot shaft went into pilot bearing just fine with the correct size between the shaft and the bearing and lengths were good. It seems like the pressure plate is at the end of its travel is what it feels like to be. Maybe, since this is an adjustable main piston, I should now adjust so that the "Bind" start is right past the floor, so it doesnt see that much travel. I'll look into that tomorrow. You guys think that everything you see with what I've said looks okay? anything I might have missed?
Thanks guys!
Brett.....
 
#7 ·
Brett,

Looks like you have the correct flywheel and clutch, no problem there. I used my Camaro pedal assembly with the correct GM LT1 master / slave assembly. Distance from pedal pivot to master cylinder rod pivot was 2 1/2" if I remember correctly, but I moved my master cylinder pivot about 3/4" further forward using a welded plate on the clutch pedal to change the transition point for clutch engagement. Just a matter of taste though.
I also used the Fidanza flywheel that you have, along with a SPEC Stage3+ clutch and pressure plate, combined with the stock GM master/slave assembly and didn't have any problems ( so far).

The clutch fork can rattle around a bit without the slave attached, but the depression in the clutch fork for the slave push rod should look fairly centered when looking through the slave adaptor to bellhousing bracket.

John
 
#8 · (Edited)
I think (and hope) your setup has physically made it to the topic of my last paragraph, last post.

When it feels as if it's stopping 2" from the floor, you may have hit the fork against the pressure plate.

That means you need to have the car running, see if the clutch is releasing before the fork hits the PP. If it is releasing, you may be able to adjust pedal to master pushrod length, perhaps a pedal stop be utilized and be just about done.

If the clutch isn't releasing before the Fork-PP grind, you may need a shorter fork pivot tee, a thinner dimensional flywheel, a thinner disc, or a different pressure plate. The release of the pull clutch from the LT1 T56 isn't tolerant of aftermarket thicker flywheels (0.100" will prevent it from working) and other out-of-dimension parts in the clutch and release mechanism parts.

One quick and dirty way to validate a shorter pivot tee will work on this case is to loosen 8 bolts holding trans. to bell, remove 1 at a time and insert a washer or shim in most of them. If an 1/8" takes care of release, pull the trans. and mill your fork tee.
 
#9 ·
I measured the distance from the slave locating face to the end of the piston-1.6. then I measured the distance from the locating surface of the slave on the bell housing down to the clutch fork socket-1.3. I like the way your thinking with the pivot Tee. I think the location of the slave is too far in (Hence the pivot Tee pivot location not correct). I could try to back off the location of the slave, which is the same as backing off the Tee (It's not, but it changes the travel amount at least to see if that gets it closer to working. I have another Tee with bolt. But the only way to get a closer look at that is to pull the tranny, correct? But it seems to me that when I bolt up the slave, I'm actually loosing some pressure plate travel by just bolting up the slave to the bell housing, kinda like I need a taller clutch cover-The aluminum housing that you put on the bell housing before mounting the slave. After installing the fork cover, then the slave, there is at least 1/2" of threaded stud still sticking out past the slave. The thing that sucks here is I piece-mealed these parts together. I bought the tranny from a guy and it had nothing else. then I found a bell housing, then a clutch disk and pressure plate, then a flywheel. I should have just found everything together. I learned this lesson definitely the hard way! lol....

Chevyefi-Yes, It has made it to this point. The McLeod clutch pedal kit fixed the pedal travel issue and the angle. Pedal felt smooth with good travel after install and before the hydraulic hook up. And since it is adjustable, it might just need to be adjusted down as that turnbuckle will move the pedal quite a bit with just two turns on the shaft.
Thanks,
Brett.....
 
#10 · (Edited)
I located this flywheel for a 1997 Camaro LT1 6-Speed. It looks thinner. This could be a clue. If the flywheel I installed is thicker, then that could be causing the clutch fork is hitting the pressure plate due to a taller assembly.


Another possible revelation?! I looked up the number that is on the tranny (1386-020) and it says it came from a 1999 F-Body. I think that means it is from a LS-1, not an LT-1? Does that mean I can still use the Pull-Type LT-1 clutch? I would prefer a regular clutch but just to get it running I hope to try to make it work with what I have, if it is possible.....

Auto part Clutch part Disc brake Rotor Vehicle brake


 
#11 ·
Brett,

I looked up that trans ID as well, if it's 1386-000-020 then you have a 99-02 F Body trans, and it wont work with the 93-97 LT1 bellhousing and clutch / flywheel assembly unless the adaptor plate, input, and bellhousing has been changed.

That might be the root of all your problems.

John
 
#12 ·
Yes, a taller flywheel / clutch assy. (from crank face to TOB fork groove) can lead to a no-release-before-grind situation.

You trans. code may be -020. However,

Your clutch fork bolts up and you have a TOB tube, correct? If yes, the front plate is 94-97 instead of the original 98-02 plate on the 1386-020 unit.
Further, the original input shaft for the 1386-020 would run about 1.31" longer if it were still in place. So it would bottom out and you wouldn't have bolted the trans. up.

So you more than likely have a 99-02 with LT1 front adapter plate and input. Nothing wrong with that. Minor upgrades over the 94-95 and 96-97 boxes.

On thinner flywheels: I don't know how your Fidanza measures. It, surfaced on the front and back to be thinner may solve your problem. I hope you have the one balanced for 454. Because, it's my experience a 0.100" balance plate screws up fork release (when installed on a 400.)

The depth of the 93-97 style wheels is necessary for the reverse-sprung hub clutch disc to clear the bolts.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Tranny is OUT!:hurray:

I was thinking that I had all of this clutch crap and was going to have to be changing it ALL including the bell housing, so I was glad to read your post about a LS tranny having things on it that wouldn't let it be my tranny. It all bolted up fine (Length of shaft and the shaft tube being on it). I did not use the balance plate. I actually purchased a counterweight that weighed the same that actually bolted up to the inside of the flywheel. Fidanza had a set of holes for a counterweight. I had a rotational balance done to it. Notice the counter-bores in the pressure plate? I runs really smooth, with no noticeable vibration at least at the R's I've run it at so far. The ring around the P/P where the blue paint has been ground off was done by a previous install from previous owner. This setup looks to clear all around albeit somewhat close to bell-housing casting.

This is my question now; See the hole underneath the clutch fork? There is a hole that goes all the way through the plate (It's a through hole). It doesn't show up on the exploded view with anything in it. Could it be another pivot point?

My throwout bearing groove is .800", and the fingers on the fork are .450". .350" worth of play at the throw out bearing will equate to quite a lot more travel at the fork end. Can we verify if I have right/wrong setup? Also, I see that the clutch fingers are flat. They were the normal "Turned in" fingers at rest, meaning they are loaded pretty good by bolting the pressure plate up to the flywheel. Do they look normal for installed correct P/P on a Pull-Type clutch?

So if I must remove the throw out bearing, the pressure plate needs to come off? The throw out bearing comes out through the other side of the P/P? Looks like that is a correct assumption.

Boy! getting to the top two bolts was a real challenge, but putting the passenger-side bolt in is going to be the real challenge! But, tilting the engine back sure helped. If I had a tighter engine compartment I would have had to remove the distributor. I kept an eye on it when tilting the engine back-something I learned the hard way in my younger years! lol......:eek:
Thanks!
Brett.....


***UPDATE***
After some logic and pulling my head out of my butt I determined that the mysterious hole was due to a missing bolt (Duh). I also think, because I do have two clutch fork pivot Tee's, I am going to machine one shorter-Kinda like adding the spacer/washer to the tranny to back it off some, if I make the Tee shorter, it will change the pivot location and will hopefully improve my release point. I read that this is done often. I was going to remove 1/8. Any other numbers that I should consider other than 1/8"?
B....

Plywood Wood Hardwood Door


Auto part


Bumper Auto part Automotive exterior Wheel


Auto part Clutch Engine Transmission part Machine


Wheel Tire Auto part Spoke Automotive tire
 
#14 ·
These type of fitments are to be expected when you piece together a application like this. I assume as it appears that the entire linkage on this chevelle is just that. I think what would the easiest and alot less aggravation would to be to find someone who makes a kit for this. I think they are.

I have a S10 that I plan on at sometime putting a 4 speed in and plan on using a hydraulic clutch set up and pedals out a circle track application. That is what seems to work for me so far.

I have also been think about converting my dads chevelle over to a self adjusting clutch, just to provide myself more time to work on my car and not have to work on his.

Surely there are some people that can give you some advice here. Have you looked over in the pro touring forum?

Matter of fact, why dont you call American Powertrain.

http://americanpowertrain.com/p-29452-transmission-kits.html

I just got a shifter from them in my 99 silverado that has a t56 out of a 05 GTO. Still sorting out the long throw that the handle has and have a several different handles to try. I really like those short quick throws.

If you call American Powertrain. Ask for Micheal at ext 107.
 
#15 ·
I like this update, Brett.

Yes, that's definitely a 94-97 input shaft and front plate. And that's great news on the flywheel bolt-on weight.

The sloppy fork to TOB groove dimensions are 100% normal. And the PP fingers look fine. Once they went to second design "LT4" PP, they were all flat, not ribbed fingers.

Make sure your tee bolt doesn't bottom out. With regard to the amount you're milling off, that's where the washers come into play. The thickness that works gives you an indication of milling to do.

Aaron,
Places like Hurst Drivetrain and American Powertrain sell packages. They don't rebuild their own transmissions so I tend to look past them as a truly involved powertrain source. Further, as I am not familiar with a raised pivot forward location shifter. So you may want to verify if you ended up with a standard pivot shifter for use in your truck. If so, an elevated pivot (like used in the Ram SRT-10 and Chevy SSR) would be beneficial. Core Shifters (on eBay) can help you with one.

With regard to your insinuation there's no advice here, I can assure you Brett is kicking ass and taking names and will be resolved with this soon. Since I've installed mechanical linkage on an LT1 T56, an LS1 slave cylinder setup T56 with no spacers nor aftermarket parts behind a SBC and know plenty about the T56, I'm thinking there's a wee bit. ;)
 
#16 ·
Ok, I know they do. I did not know what you where wanting to do as I just kind of speed read over those post. When I talked with them it was only brief and not as detailed as what your saying.

I have two piviots for the shifter. Will look back over those. There could be a couple of other things to sort out on mine as well.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Cool Man! Thanks. I machined .125 from the spare Tee I had. I really had to use some restraint to not machine any more. You know the saying with me; If a little is good, then more HAS to be better. I have another quick question that I hope someone will see and help me with. The front plate: When I filled it with oil there was a slow leak at the plate. Then, when I pulled the tranny I noticed that the bolts that hold the plate on were not tight. I tightened them up but I want to make SURE it is not going to leak once I have it back up there and can't get to the plate. I want to take the plate off and buy a good gasket and fix it right. Can I remove that plate without springs and shafts falling out? Is it a PIA to remove the front plate? After close inspection around the periphery at the front plate, I could swear that there is a spacer inbetween the tranny and the front plate- Kinda like Part "1D" on the parts view below (upper right);

Text Font Line art Auto part Design


It really looks as though this plate is on the tranny. If so, does that make it easier for my to unbolt the front plate, clean it off and install a new gasket?
Thanks,
Brett.....
 
#18 ·
After taking some time this evening. Im not sure you understand how I have my T56 setup. Its a GTO version. I use a Camaro shift location.
 
#19 ·
Brett, Re: Quick question / leak: While it's apart, sit the unit tail down into a 5 gallon bucket, unbolt the fork and then the 11 front plate bolts. Use a short pry bar of sorts and leverage between the main case side "assy. tabs" that stick out and a sturdy point on the front plate. It should pop relatively easily. It sounds like it may have been removed before. When you lift the plate straight up, the bearing races and shims may fall. Actually, go ahead and tap with a soft hammer. They may fall out (and sit on top of the front 2 bearings.) Or watch for them.

If you razor off all the RTV so the mating surfaces are clean and flat, you can put it back together and the leak will be gone. I prefer ultra black RTV or the copper version. The grey does nothing better except it's more work to clean off cases. Run a fairly thin bead of it; it squishes out the sides. Oh, and assy. lube or vaseline to hold the shims and races in the front plate while you set it down. Watch from the side and you'll be able to see the main and secondary shift rails go into the holes in the front plate.

1D is a steel plate. It bolts a T56 front cast alum. adapter plate to a 4 bolt bellhousing. (1A, 1B, 1C are GM, Ford, Dodge cast front adapter plates.) Long version:
Originally, Borg Warner sold an 'Aftermarket" T56 in GM and Ford versions. The GM version was basically a 1993 Camaro unit with some changes including an extra long input shaft and the 1D plate so you could bolt it to an 83-92 tilted T5 bellhousing. It was meant as pretty "bolt-in" for a third gen F. That plate quickly got re-drilled (a 1993 issue of Car Craft issue covered it) to bolt to a straight-up Muncie pattern. And it's readily available aftermarket. Guys use them to bolt an LS1 T56 with ext. pilot brg. to a Muncie bell since the LS1 input is long enough to do that. I'm not a fan of that method; multiple indexing relationships instead of just the 1 set of dowels or 1 front bearing retainer to bell. And oh yeah, you don't need a 1D.

Aaron, you're right. I assumed since it was a truck. I like those ratios (even 30% rpm drop 1st - 4th) and I bet they're great in your Silverado.
 
#21 ·
Removed the front plate. Tranny, at least to me, looks pretty clean on the inside. I don't even see a wear pattern on the gears. I have had some concern about this transmission. The guy I bought it from said it had been rebuilt, and I paid only $750 for it.....hence the concern. Looks like it was even put together with Ultra Black, :hurray:



Auto part Engine


Auto part Engine Automotive engine timing part Gear Automotive engine part


Tire Automotive tire Wheel Auto part Rim


Gear Auto part Close-up Metal Tire


Auto part Coil spring Gear Tire Suspension part
 
#23 ·
x2 on the shift fork, some billet keyways are a help too. Had one in 2nd gear come out just normal driving.

Hang in there, pulled my hair out over the yrs trying to get mine right too all I can say is i believe if you have someone press the clutch pedal down and you have .030 movement thats all you need to disengage, any less it will be a pain to shift. Figure your pedal stop etc from there. it wont sit up quite as high as stock. Had mine in a hole similar to yours but pushed the rod in, then at the last bit pushed it up. Failed quickly...eventyall used the arm at the top of the pedal, perfect now kind of irrelevant as your assy is Mc Cleod.

Dummy over here ground the piece off the frame for manual linkage. There is a retro fit kit for that now. If i had to do it over-

Be patient keep at it.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I now have a working CLUTCH :hurray::beers::thumbsup:!!!!
These projects sometimes are a real challenge to do by yourself! I had to get creative with ratchet straps. I had one anchored up on the firewall going down around the tranny and back up to the firewall to help stop it from rolling on me. When I finally was able to get it up on a floor jack, it wanted to roll off, even on a piece of wood. I tried strapping it to the floor jack, but the strap cradling it worked great to prevent it from getting away from me. Then I put a strap through the shifter hole to stabilize the back end. That was very helpful as well. I will probably have to do some adjustment to the pedal travel.

I milled off .125 from the "T", and ground about .100 where the fork would contact the top of the pressure plate. I did a small amount just in case it was going to interfere while I felt it was not at risk of weakening the fork itself. It became very clear considering the pressure plate had previously been rubbed/ground away due to the previous owner tried to do what I assume is a similar install and it hit in the same place with the shift fork.

Can you lay out one more time a way to check the adjustment? I kinda got confused about the .030 movement. Is there any way I can check with just one person? I really want to make sure that I am not at risk of sitting too close to the bottom travel limit with the pedal pushed all the way to the floor. It seems like once I get it back on the floor and running, when I push the pedal to the floor, I'll put it in gear and see where it wants to engage the clutch slowly raising the pedal. How far off the floor should it start to engage? 1 inch?

I REALLY want to thank you all for talking me off the ledge and all your input and thoughts. Chevyefi-I would not be where I am right now without your feedback, direction and the wisdom to see through my frustration and genuinely want to help a desperate butt-head. Thanks!

I will follow up with some further updates when warranted....


Automotive tire Tire Auto part Vehicle Bumper

The case is actually supported here, not the shaft. Some insurance in case the bucket split.

Bumper Auto part Automotive exterior Vehicle

My new cross-member! Will enable me to really get my cutouts up as high as possible-Much better than the stock cross-member.

Auto part Tire Automotive wheel system Automotive tire Automotive exterior


Auto part Vehicle Exhaust system Automotive exhaust Car
 
#25 ·
I think on the 0.030", C-Vette is talking about the distance the pressure plate lifts off, allowing for the disc to spin or "releases the clutch." You won't measure that; you'll simply verify clutch release by how the car reacts with the use of the clutch pedal.

With these setups, sometimes it will feel like the release happens mid-pedal, and yes you could shorten a master cylinder pushrod to make release lower in the pedal travel. Drive it all around slow and fast. Make sure you're not grinding the pressure plate, and getting good release at a point where it's released when you're moving into the next gear for the sake of the synchros and blocker ring life.

I'm fairly comfortable with the OEM setups that feel like release happens mid-pedal, some people like it lower. Kind of a preference thing, but now that you know your set-up well, you'll know when something isn't right and service or adjust accordingly. Isn't it great to know details of what parts are putting the power to the wheels?

Thank you for showing us what persistence and willingness to learn and work hard can do for results in our hobby. You accomplished where others quit. :)

Routing the hydraulic line away from the exhaust and possibly insulation around it hydraulic line can be helpful over the long run.
 
#26 ·
SO...:mad:....I got it all back together, started it up, still no clutch dis-engagement. the pedal is sitting at the top of it's travel with just a hair of play in the free state. When the pedal is pushed all the way to the floor, the piston is stopping about 1/8" from it's bottoming travel in the master(the step up to the larger diameter of the piston rod is 1/8" short of hitting the master). Thinking I have air in the system. Can you tell me how you would recommend bleeding? I did take the top off the reservoir and slowley pushed on the pedal hoping it would force the air out the top, but no luck. With the engine running and the clutch pedal down, when I try to put it in gear I can tell the car is wanting to move forward. Good thing it never popped into gear as my truck was parked right in front of it! lol.....
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top