[jkratty]

I'm in the process of swapping out the originals for SPC springs, Edelbrock shocks, and SC&C stage II UCAs with the tall ball joints. The passenger side was fairly straight forward. Now I'm on the driver's side.

For the life of me, I cannot pop the upper ball joint. I have, in fact, broken two pickle forks, having bent the "tines" on one, and broke the handle off of the other. I am using a very substantial BFH.

I am at a complete loss. Unfortunately I don't have a compressor large enough to run an air hammer, so that's not an option.

Is it unheard of, since I'm not reusing the existing ball joint, to just cut the BJ stud with a Sawz-All where it is stuck in the spindle? If I position my floor jack just under the LCA, that should catch everything once it's cut. And I have the spring secured with two chains around the frame.

Thanks!

[mwiggett]

I've had some stubborn one's but nothing I couldn't remove. I assume your letting the suspension hang with nothing under it. I take my BFH and hit the knockle at the ball joint connection. You can cut it but that won't solve your problem of removing it from the knuckle.

[twotone64]

Jason,

There are to tricks I use to remove stubborn ball joints. I leave the ball joint stud nut on the stud with only about an 1/8" space between it and the spindle. Using a propane torch, or acetaline torch for that matter, I heat the spindle up and try not to get much of the heat on the ball joint stud. There will be some fire due to the grease at the ball joint just keep a damp rag and a fire extingquisher handy. Then with the pickle fork or a large pry bar well placed, have someone putting pressure on it downward, and slam the portion of the spindle where the stud goes through. This will shock the hole the ball joint goes into and the nut will keep the a-arms and springs from exploding.

[jkratty]

Originally Posted by mwiggett

I've had some stubborn one's but nothing I couldn't remove. I assume your letting the suspension hang with nothing under it. I take my BFH and hit the knockle at the ball joint connection. You can cut it but that won't solve your problem of removing it from the knuckle.

Thanks for the reply. yes, the suspension is hanging.

When you hit the knuckle, are you hitting it laterally (from the side) or with vertical (pushing it down) pressure? The disc/rotor/caliper is still attached, so I'm not certain where there is room to swing the BFH at the knuckle.

Sorry of these are noob questions. It's only my second ball joint (the successful passenger side being my first!).

[jkratty]

Originally Posted by twotone64

Jason,

There are to tricks I use to remove stubborn ball joints. I leave the ball joint stud nut on the stud with only about an 1/8" space between it and the spindle. Using a propane torch, or acetaline torch for that matter, I heat the spindle up and try not to get much of the heat on the ball joint stud. There will be some fire due to the grease at the ball joint just keep a damp rag and a fire extingquisher handy. Then with the pickle fork or a large pry bar well placed, have someone putting pressure on it downward, and slam the portion of the spindle where the stud goes through. This will shock the hole the ball joint goes into and the nut will keep the a-arms and springs from exploding.

Rod,
Thanks for the tip. You answered the question i was about to pose...won't $hit catch on fire??

I just tried pounding the spindle/knuckle with the BFH and didn't have any luck. So, may have to light the fire wrench.

Thanks again,
Jason

[mwiggett]

Yes I hit it latterally on the knuckle. Most of your problem is probably do to the fact that your kneeling on the floor and trying to hit it, hard to get a good swing on it. I use 4lb mini sledge hammer, and it can be difficult. In 22 years I've never had to use heat but it's an option.

[rkd]

A Sears or quality pickle fork may last longer than the generic ones.

I have not had a ball joint that would not come out with a properly placed pickle fork. Set the fork up so nothing on the back side is in the way, and it is at a comfortable angle to hit.

Leave the nut on and use a 10 lb sledge. Bigger if you got one. Several full on whacks should do it.

Next, heat the mother and repeat the above.

The only two things I have had outlast me, were the pitman arm on my 82 Bronco. It took a special setup in my shop press to push it off. Sounded like a sonic boom when it let go. Also the pitman arm on my present F150 has resisted two attemps at removal. Not a problem, its not loose, just squeeky.

[charbilly2001]

#1) Raise the entire suspension on that side and put a 2X4 between the upper control arm and the frame. Then lower the entire suspension such that the 2X4 is trapped under and keeping the upper control arm raised. That leaves the upper ball joint stud under "downward" spring tension via the car spring.

If you have already detached the lower ball joint put the spring back in and refasten the whole mess. You need the muscle of the spring to help you. Make sure that the upper ball joint nut is loose but not removed. Have maybe 1/8" clearance between the ball joint nut and the spindle.

#2) Using a stout pry bar ( 4' crow bar would be nice ) find a place to pry down on the spindle. Any way you can. Once you are in that position then start rapping on the upper spindle, where the ball joint stud passes thru, with your BFH.


The combined pressure from the installed spring and the downward pressure from your prybar will likely pop the stud loose with a couple raps of the hammer.

Lesson learned : Always do the upper ball joint first unless you only want to do the lower ball joint.

[jkratty]

You guys are great. Thank you for ALL the advice!

Now I just have to buy a new pickle fork and I will put your suggestions to the test.

Thanks again,
Jason

[jkratty]

Here's an embarrassing question: at what angle should you insert the pickle fork? Maybe I'm doing that wrong.

For example, if you're looking straight on at the spindle, with the wheel studs pointing at your chest, should the fork go straight in, over the top of the rotor and just above the knuckle? Or should you be a slight angle to the left side, i.e opposite the caliper?

As I recall, it finally popped for me on the passenger side at an angle, not straight on.

[rkd]

I would put the pickle fork in so that the hammer direction is toward the center of the car, so it's less stressful on the control arm. Adjust as needed to get a nice comfortable swing.

The pickle fork goes whichever side up that fits the situation and your bfh angle.

[jkratty]

Update: The good news is everything is apart. The bad news is, instead of popping, the ball just just broke, leaving the stud still firmly locked in the knuckle of the spindle.

So two more questions:
1) Is there a press/clamp that i can get to press the stud out of the spindle?
2) When removing/installing the upper control arms on the driver's side, do you have to remove the steering shaft first? I am in the process and it appears you have to do this. If so, what is the easiest way to do this, i.e. at the u-joint or rag joint? (hope it's not the rag joint because one of the bolts is absolutely frozen solid and will not loosen).

Thanks!

[mwiggett]

Take the spindle to a machine shop and let them remove it, would be the best way.