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67 Chevelle Aftermarket Radiator

8K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  keithb 
#1 ·
I have a 67 Chevelle SS Clone. 396 4 speed car. It seems to run hotter than I'm comfortable with. After getting up to operating temp if I leave it idle for more than a few minutes it climbs to 210-215. It comes down to 200 or so when I get moving again but takes a while. It's going on the Hot Rod power tour in a few months and I want to not worry about over heating.
It is bored .030" over, has a mild cam, stock intake, stock water pump, stock type Harrison 3 core radiator, proper shroud, non-clutch fan, electrical fan in front of radiator set to come on at 210°, 180° degree thermostat, timing set at ~16-18 base and 36 overall.
What I'm doing to it now is, changing intake to an Edelbrock aluminum with air gap, changing to a high flow aluminum water pump, but while I have it apart I figured I might change from the stock radiator to an aluminum after market type. Does anyone have any experience with one that bolts directly in? would like to spend no more than $400 dollars if that is possible.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
#2 ·
i think your electric fan could be the culprit here, as you timing looks good, and you have a shroud and pretty much stock everything else.

Don at Alumitech Reproductions is your best bet, but I am not sure if he is back online currently. Hopefully someone else will chime in on BeCool or Griffin radiators. Or even if maybe a puller e-fan is better than a pusher.

For me, I opted to get an American Eagle aluminum radiator off of ebay that has actually worked pretty good, and dropped right in (i made sure the dimensions were close). Just temporary until Don is back.
 
#6 ·
Hopefully someone else will chime in on BeCool or Griffin radiators. Or even if maybe a puller e-fan is better than a pusher.
.
May I propose another option? How about DeWitts Radiator? We actually make the radiators while others buy components and assemble them. Research us, and I think you will find our products superior to the above mentioned.




www.dewitts.com
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the info.
Do you think the aluminum after markets cool better than the stock versions?
I did find PWR brand that looks like a direct drop in for $350.00, Made in USA. I thought that seemed pretty fair. Can't see why Be Cool and the other big name are so expensive.
 
#4 ·
Because the temp comes down when you start moving, part of the problem is insufficient air flow. What kind of fan is it, the factory fat blade type? If it is one of those narrow blade replacement types, it could be part of the problem.

What size electrical fan, and what is the CFM rating? There are a ton of undersized, underpowered electrical fans out there. Make sure yours is adequate.
 
#5 ·
1st the Efan(pusher) in front of Rad is restricting the airflow .

The best fan setup is a puller type on the engine side of the Rad

Best direct fitting rad I have put on my 67 was from Don at Alumitech
bought one of his New HP 1.25" Dual Tubed Rad & Dual 11" Fans with Shroud and installed it last year

1st time at the track on a for TNT on a hot 30+ day with no thermo stat
did some back to back runs and the coolant temps never got over 180*made a total of 8 runs that day
I drive my car to the track, about 20 mins in city driving and 20 mins on the hwy
then change to track tires & back to streets when I drive back home
not once did the old girl's temp get above 190*
 
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