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Combo's that work 454, Solid Roller Cam

11K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  1970-Cloned 
#1 ·
I am searching for hydraulic roller cam for my 454 (.060, 468CID). I have a solid roller cam now. I have a combo that works rather well, I just don't want to pull the valve cover to check valve lash several times a summer. The idle is fairly smooth for a solid roller cam.

The issue is that I don't see a lot of these with actual dyno results. So here are mine. I only have Rear Wheel HP and TQ numbers.

Stock 454 two bolt main block bored .060
SRP Forged Pistons, Stock Rods, Stock Steel Crank
049/781 Large Oval Port Cast Iron Heads, Gasket matched, also cleaned up all casting slag inside the runners. 2.19 Int, 1.88 Ext Valve.
9.6:1 Compression
Solid Roller Cam
Lunati Part#50299LUN, Grind# RRB-234-236, Serial# T1HP
Lobe Separation 112 Deg
Center Line 108 Deg, 4 Deg Advanced
Lift at Valve .542 INT, .551 EX
1.7 Rocker Ratio for INT and EX
Duration 234 Deg IN., 246 Deg EX.
Crane Roller Lifters, Crane Roller Rockers.
Edelbrock Air-Gap RPM manifold
Holley 950HP (Mechanical Secondaries) carb, Primary Jet #69 Secondary #76
MSD Distributor and 6AL box, 8.5MM wires, AC Delco Plugs
19 Degrees Intial Timing, 37 Degrees Total
no vacuum advance
Dynomax Headers. 1 3/4" Primary 3" Collector
Car Chemistry 3 Ring muffler inserts, Dynomax 3" Mufflers
X Pipe

12 bolt 3.73 POSI rear and Tremec TKO Manual Transmission
1970 Chevelle

I did about 15 pulls total to get the correct jetting and 4 more pulls after we got it tuned in. I kept two of the dyno sheets. We tuned it with a wide band 02 sensor and kept constant fuel pressure (7.9 PSI Average) and Air/Fuel Ratio (12.6 Average) throughout the RPMs

1st Pull Tuned Pull
389.1 @5100 RPMs HP
431.8 @3400 RPMs TQ

2nd Pull Tuned Pull
384.9 @5400 RPMs HP
430.5 @3600 RPMs TQ

This was on a Mustang (Branded) Dyno in Omaha Nebraska. Keep in mind that these are Rear Wheel Ratings not at the engine. Rear Wheel HP is approximately 18%-25% less than crank HP.
 
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#2 ·
Ben, an observation and a question:

Your email address is visible in your sig, it's going to be snagged by the various web crawlers that roll through here. This site has so much traffic it's become a target for those things. From the forum front page: "Most users ever online was 1,603, Apr 24th, 06 at 07:37 PM." This is enough to attact the bottom feeders who troll the web for email addresses.

how much did you need to adjust the valves when you checked them? a thou or 2? your present cam is not aggressive enough to require the killer valve springs that make trouble in street cars. I'd put that thing on a longer schedule for pulling the V/C if that's the way it is. You'll hear it tapping if anything goes wrong, like a polylock backing off or something. A couple thou here and there is just not a big deal as long as the overall deal is stable. I used to be paranoid aboout this stuff till I started keeping track of the adjustments on paper. Quickly discovered I was chasing moonbeams.
 
#4 ·
If it were me I would leave your combo alone. It pulls some pretty nice numbers, especially with a pretty mild cam. :thumbsup:

You say that you have to check your lash several times a summer but when you check is the lash off? If the lash is not changing, then maybe you can reduce how often you are checking (maybe to once or twice a season).

If it is changing, then you might have some issues with your valvetrain that need checking into further (i.e. lifter going bad).
 
#5 ·
Slap some rocker stud girdles on it and the lash will stay set for a long time.
 
#6 ·
Nice numbers, I agree....but I run a solid roller also, and pull the valve covers each spring to check lash, and that's it for the season. And it's still where it should be! Stop wrenchin and worrying, and start enjoying it! John
 
#8 ·
Just had engine on dyno last Friday.1977 454 chevy 4x4 truck bored .030 over to 462 ci, 9.5:1, Keith Black hypertectic pistons, Crane hyd roller cam 139011, crane hydraulic roller lifters 13532 & Harland Sharp 1.7 roller rockers,rebullt stock heads with Manley ss valves,edelbrock performer rpm with orig rebuilt stock 750 q jet and results = 451 hp & 486 ft lbs torque-2nd run before going to bigger jets. Now ? but should be 455-460 + hp. The hyd roller parts are expensive but the results are impressive and no adjusting valves.
 
#9 · (Edited)
mr 4 speed said:
Impressive numbers :thumbsup:
One question,that jetting seems lean ? :confused:

"Holley 950HP (Mechanical Secondaries) carb, Primary Jet #69 Secondary #76"
I had my jetting about 10 jets up on both the primary and secondaries prior to taking to the dyno (I don't remember exact numbers). I kept fouling plugs. The dyno man, used the Wide Band O2 sensor. The O2 sensor and control unit he had was an expensive one, around $1000 or so.

I also agree that the jets seem a bit small. I also know the dyno guy would not send out a car that was running lean.
 
#10 ·
71454Chevelle said:
If it were me I would leave your combo alone. It pulls some pretty nice numbers, especially with a pretty mild cam. :thumbsup:

You say that you have to check your lash several times a summer but when you check is the lash off? If the lash is not changing, then maybe you can reduce how often you are checking (maybe to once or twice a season).

If it is changing, then you might have some issues with your valvetrain that need checking into further (i.e. lifter going bad).

I check the valve lash several times a season because I had a rocker arm come loose when I zinged the motor. That was with a larger solid roller, the first time I put the engine together. It just makes me worry.

No the valves are not out of adjustment when I check them.
 
#12 ·
Ben, I answered your PM.

Why did you have the jets up 10 sizes? the stock jets out of the box should be very close unless there's a big problem with fuel delivery to the float bowls. I would look up the stock jets for the carb and install them. this is provided the carb hasn't been modified with like different boosters or air bleeds or something. I've found on several occasions that jetting that looked great on the dyno was too lean for the real world, I certainly would not be going leaner than stock without some strong indicator that it's rich.

There's a wide band O2 setup that's very reasonably priced, see

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/customer/product.php?productid=16139&cat=261&page=1

About $350. This is a nice setup that's well proven. there may be others, but these guys were leaders in making this technology affordable for the regular guy. It does data logging and has additional functionality for logging other data. I don't know why they're still selling it with a serial cable for the laptop, they advertise a USB converter. Their software is good.
 
#13 ·
mr 4 speed said:
Ben,
any plans on going to the strip?
No, I have no set plans at this time.

I took the car to the track on the first rebuild. I couldn't hook up at all, the tires just spun all the way through first gear and part of the way through second gear. I am sure some of this is due to my lack of experience on the track. I ran a 15.00 quarter with a 109 mph. The guy I was racing against shot a ahead at first but I sure did catch up quick.

I might make it again sometime. I will definately invest in a set of street slicks or plain slicks. I will hook up next time for sure.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Tom Mobley said:
Ben, I answered your PM.

Why did you have the jets up 10 sizes? the stock jets out of the box should be very close unless there's a big problem with fuel delivery to the float bowls. I would look up the stock jets for the carb and install them. this is provided the carb hasn't been modified with like different boosters or air bleeds or something. I've found on several occasions that jetting that looked great on the dyno was too lean for the real world, I certainly would not be going leaner than stock without some strong indicator that it's rich.

There's a wide band O2 setup that's very reasonably priced, see

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/customer/product.php?productid=16139&cat=261&page=1

About $350. This is a nice setup that's well proven. there may be others, but these guys were leaders in making this technology affordable for the regular guy. It does data logging and has additional functionality for logging other data. I don't know why they're still selling it with a serial cable for the laptop, they advertise a USB converter. Their software is good.

That is what the carb had for jets when I got it. I did not go up at all, I bought it from TPC racing out of Texas. I will invest in dual WB 02 sensors one for each bank when I get the car back together.

While running the jets as I got the carb it was way too rich. Like I said fouled the plugs 3 times before I took to the dyno.

Also while on the dyno we did a test cruise at about 35 MPH and held it there for about 5 Mins and did the same at about 75-80MPH to make sure I was not too rich or lean in those areas. I was there about 5 hours total to tune the car in. The guy there was all about making HP that I could use, not peak or Max HP and still drive it around town.

I don't think fuel delivery is a problem, I am running to and from 8AN lines from my tank with a carb regulator.

Thanks
 
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