I just laid down two coats of unreduced SPI epoxy on my dash and am experiencing what looks like solvent pop. I let it flash one hour between coats. Any thoughts? This is the first time I have had this problem. Was spraying with a DeVilbiss HVLP gun at ~12 psi. Thanks for any feedback.
I just laid down two coats of unreduced SPI epoxy on my dash and am experiencing what looks like solvent pop. I let it flash one hour between coats. Any thoughts? This is the first time I have had this problem. Was spraying with a DeVilbiss HVLP gun at ~12 psi. Thanks for any feedback.
I'm not familiar with their product either, but for any other epoxy, you only wait 10-15 minutes between coats. Are you sure you're not seeing small fisheyes?
If you put it on too heavy it will do this. Also if you used solvent or there water based wax/grease remover and didn't let it flash off it will do this. As stated above 12 psi to the gun is too low.
Jim, Poster should say what gun he is using as not all HVLP's are the
same. And there are at least two other posters that know what they
are doing. Problem is at least pressure and recoat time. Could be
more temp, mixing etc. Remember help is as good as the info given.
ANY paint will react to unevaporated solvents, whether you see a pop or not, so always wipe on, reverse rag, wipe off and let evaporate @ 65degrees for best results. This isn't an SPI only issue.
ANY paint will react to unevaporated solvents, whether you see a pop or not, so always wipe on, reverse rag, wipe off and let evaporate @ 65degrees for best results. This isn't an SPI only issue.
No it isn't an SPI peculiar incident and I should have clarified that. It was just the SPI users who were encountering this problem recently. Having been painting for 25 years I should have been more thorough with my statement. Apologies.
I've had problems with fisheyes when painting a dash, presumably from some silicone remaining from silicone-based cleaners like Armorall. Even though the dash was sanded and cleaned with w&g remover, evidently enough silicone was still present to cause the fisheyes. Wet sanding and more wiping with w&g remover finally got the problem solved.
Wow, thanks for the (exciting) replies to this post! I f'd up and set the pressure at the gun inlet way too low per my buddy's recommendation. Totally my fault, not SPI's. It's a Devilbiss Finish Line HVLP gun, probably 15 years old. The primer looks a lot better after curing and should sand out with 400 from the looks of the imperfections.
Changing subject: What type of reducer should I use to mix this as as sealer?
Go to the Southern Polyurethanes website. You can look at all the technical information on there.
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