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Stripped oil drain plug: how to get it out

5K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  Chris R 
#1 ·
I was changing the oil in the wife's daily driver. When I put the drain plug back in it never snugged down and now it spins but won't loosen or tighten. I need to get it out so I can replace it with an oversized one. I tried prying on the edge with a screwdriver while I turned it in the hope it would catch on one of the remaining threads and turn out of the hole but no luck. How the heck can I get it out?
 
#2 ·
Rich,
the screwdriver thing will work if you use 2 screwdrivers to lift it out towards you as you turn the plug,sorta using the drivers as a wedge.
 
#3 ·
I'll try that in the morning. The sealing washer is really soft aluminum so I know I'll be able to chip it out of the way so the screwdrivers can get under the plug bolt well.
 
#5 ·
So let me guess,soft aluminum washer with a stripped drain plug.Is it a Honda?
 
#6 ·
Careful with the Honda jabs... They provide me $$ to pay my bills... If it's stripped out, then someone OVERTIGHTENED it! All the aluminum pans only take 29LbFt of torq on that crush washer~ Watch out for all the Walmarts and other FAST oil change joints with the calibrated arm on the wrench torq.
 
#7 ·
I've cured similar situations by using visegrips or a pipe wrench to turn the bolt while using the blade of a big screw driver for the tools to ride up on as you turn them. With Chevy engines there is a nut welded to the inside of the pan. If the weld were to break, pan removal would probably be the only way to get things apart. Have fun.
 
#9 ·
Yes it's a Honda. The two screwdriver method finally allowed me to get it out.

We've owned it for 6 years so if it's been overtightened it's my fault. But in my defense, the entire time I've owned it the plug bolt has been hard to turn even when not snugged down so I suspect the threads were damaged when I got it. The new one was tight to screw in all the way too so the nut welded into the pan may be somewhat damaged too.

I went to the parts store and bought a replacement plug and an oversized plug. The stripped threads were on the plug only and the replacement worked fine. I'll keep the oversized one handy in the event I need it in the future. The car has 165,000 on it so it's had it's share of oil changes.

Now if I can just figure out where the darn thing is leaking so much oil. It appears to be coming out at the front (side?) of the block near the timing belt and just below the head. It's not the valve cover leaking but it is oily just below the valve cover.
 
#10 ·
Rich,
I think the Hondas had a problem with the cam seals coming out and leaking. There is a fix with a new seal and a bracket to hold it in place. Either PM me or post the exact year, model, and engine size here and I will look it up for you. if its the cam seal you need to change it before it soaks the belt, belt breaks or slips, ...... bent valves etc etc.
 
#11 ·
BillK said:
Rich,
I think the Hondas had a problem with the cam seals coming out and leaking. There is a fix with a new seal and a bracket to hold it in place. Either PM me or post the exact year, model, and engine size here and I will look it up for you. if its the cam seal you need to change it before it soaks the belt, belt breaks or slips, ...... bent valves etc etc.
The leak is getting pretty severe so this makes some sense.

It is a '93 Prelude Si. It has the 2.3 dohc engine (not the 2.2 V-Tech). I haven't had the belt cover off yet but it does look like the oil could be getting inside the cover and if so, that's bad news. Looks like it's time to go further in debt on this thing (timing belt, might as well do the water pump while I'm in there, valve cover gasket, alternator and a/c belts).

Seeing where these seals are, can I change them without pulling the cams? It looks like they are right behind the cam drive gears but that's all I know.

Maybe I should get up early and pull that top belt cover off and see if it's oily inside.
 
#12 ·
Rich,Good to hear that the drain plug was an easy fix.
Harleighguy,My daughter has an 97 Accord.I wasn't trying to jab at Honda,in fact they're great cars IMO.Just pointing one of their weak spots.Yes there are alot of ham fisted techs oil change techs out there but it seems the Honda's drain plug is easier to damage than most.Its Ok though, they're strong points outweigh most everything else.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Rich-L79 said:
The leak is getting pretty severe so this makes some sense.

Looks like it's time to go further in debt on this thing (timing belt, might as well do the water pump while I'm in there, valve cover gasket, alternator and a/c belts).
Rich, if you have not changed the timing belt yet, your way past borrowed time and are waiting for an engine destruction. Your belt is suppose to be changed every 90 thousand miles. And of course when your in there you change the water pump plus others things that have been mentioned
 
#14 ·
I feel your pain Rich. My '90 Accord with the 2.3 leaks oil as well - just haven't investigated where exactly it's coming from. I've thought that front crank seal was the culprit but perhaps it's the cam seal and the oil is just running down - making it appear as though it's leaking lower. Been leaking for quite some time - needs a quart about every two weeks.

No complaints though - 162K and the original alt just went bad recently followed - naturally, by the 5 year old battery.

By the way, Honda says to replace the aluminum oil drain plug washer each time you change the oil. Apparently they will start to deform from repeated loosening/tightening. I just inspect mine each time - replacing it every 4-5 OC's.

Dan
 
#15 ·
Hi-po SS 454 said:
Rich, if you have not changed the timing belt yet, your way past borrowed time and are waiting for an engine destruction.
I thought those motors were non-interference type. No chance of piston damage if the belt lets go... :confused:
 
#16 ·
Hi-po SS 454 said:
Rich, if you have not changed the timing belt yet, your way past borrowed time and are waiting for an engine destruction. Your belt is suppose to be changed every 90 thousand miles. And of course when your in there you change the water pump plus others things that have been mentioned
The belt was changed just prior to 100,000k. I know about timing belts, I replace the one on my Toyota (owned it since new) about every 40k which is probably overkill but it's got 255k on the clock and still running.
 
#17 ·
Drain plugs are made with a softer metal then the pan so that the pan doesnt strip with the plug and a new plug can be replaced. Thats why you only needed to replace the plug.
 
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