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How to remove chrome strips along roofline

11K views 15 replies 11 participants last post by  1966-aztec-bronze 
#1 ·
How would you remove this chrome along the roofline?
 

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#2 ·
The drip rail is easy.

Take off the small on first where the 2 pieces meet. I've been able to do it with my fingers, careful not to get cut. Put your fingers under it and roll it UP until it snaps loose. Then roll the others the same way up. Gripping from the underside and rolling up or forward for the front piece. Start at the front for the top rail working the piece off to the rear gradually to avoid bending.

Not sure on the other trim piece. Never done one of those. Can look it up if no one responds. I'm guessing some sort clip arrangement on welded studs or screws through the back with nuts.
 
#6 ·
Some of those pieces are glued on so heat it up with a blow dryer or a heat gun. The heat gun from a distance.
the lower piece of molding around the sail panel is held on with studs/clips work it loose carefully. the upper piece is as stated by Al.
Thanks for the info!:hurray: My dad and I and working on it now!:D
 
#3 ·
Some of those pieces are glued on so heat it up with a blow dryer or a heat gun. The heat gun from a distance.
 
#9 ·
I was just giving heads up. I know on my 68 that is what it is. i dont know what a 66 is but I hate to see parts get ruined.
 
#5 ·
None of it is glued on a 66 ...

The rear V-shaped part of the vinyl top moldings have 3 nuts on each side that you can get to from inside the trunk. Remove those and pull the studs out of the holes, then you can pull that piece loose from the striaght piece on the side of the car. Then the straight piece has clips that hold it on. If you are very careful you can pop it off the clips, or better yet use a soft wood block and tap the rear end to slide the piece forward until it lets go of the clips.

The drip rail mldgs can be removed as suggested above, although it is darn hard to do with your hands. I always remove the roof-rail weatherstrip and its retainer first, then you can work from the inside of the car and use a wood block to tap the bottom edge of the mldg outward. Start at the front and go only until you get about half way between the back of the door glass and the curved part of the molding. Then start again at the bottom rear end and work your way up to near the curve. Then work a little from both sides of the cuve, going back and forth, until it pops off last at the curve.

If you try to go all the way from the front to the back, or all the way from the back to the front, you will bend the mldg at the curved area. The curve needs to pop loose last.

Good luck!
 
#11 ·
I have always been told that a bottle opener used slowly will help in removing the drip rail molding good luck. wayne
Never, ever use a can or bottle opener on them unless you have a new set to install after you've ruined them. They dent very easily so, as already mentioned, use your fingers. Getting started is the hard part but once you do it'll come off fairly easy. Patience is the key when it comes to drip rail moldings.
 
#15 ·
That molding removal tool is designed for windshield/rear window stainless removal not driprail molding. It can assist you with the driprail but you gotta be real careful. I use mine to run it along the small curled edge on the bottom of the molding and just give it a little pressure to open up the crimp being careful not to pry. Keep in mind the early cars used aluminum for the driprail while 68-72 used stainless.


Jerry
 
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