Take off the small on first where the 2 pieces meet. I've been able to do it with my fingers, careful not to get cut. Put your fingers under it and roll it UP until it snaps loose. Then roll the others the same way up. Gripping from the underside and rolling up or forward for the front piece. Start at the front for the top rail working the piece off to the rear gradually to avoid bending.
Not sure on the other trim piece. Never done one of those. Can look it up if no one responds. I'm guessing some sort clip arrangement on welded studs or screws through the back with nuts.
The rear V-shaped part of the vinyl top moldings have 3 nuts on each side that you can get to from inside the trunk. Remove those and pull the studs out of the holes, then you can pull that piece loose from the striaght piece on the side of the car. Then the straight piece has clips that hold it on. If you are very careful you can pop it off the clips, or better yet use a soft wood block and tap the rear end to slide the piece forward until it lets go of the clips.
The drip rail mldgs can be removed as suggested above, although it is darn hard to do with your hands. I always remove the roof-rail weatherstrip and its retainer first, then you can work from the inside of the car and use a wood block to tap the bottom edge of the mldg outward. Start at the front and go only until you get about half way between the back of the door glass and the curved part of the molding. Then start again at the bottom rear end and work your way up to near the curve. Then work a little from both sides of the cuve, going back and forth, until it pops off last at the curve.
If you try to go all the way from the front to the back, or all the way from the back to the front, you will bend the mldg at the curved area. The curve needs to pop loose last.
I've never tried it myself but I've heard several people say that they used an old time beer bottle opener wrapped in electrical tape to gently pry off the molding.
You can, but I've seen people ruin it with one too. I prefer to use a block of wood as mentioned. Block's larger face to distribute force will not leave a pry mark like a church key.
Never, ever use a can or bottle opener on them unless you have a new set to install after you've ruined them. They dent very easily so, as already mentioned, use your fingers. Getting started is the hard part but once you do it'll come off fairly easy. Patience is the key when it comes to drip rail moldings.
I just took the 66 to the bodyshop today with the same question. I had started the drip mldg off with my hands but it was tough. He took about a 2 " flat spoon and tapped the bottom side out easily
That molding removal tool is designed for windshield/rear window stainless removal not driprail molding. It can assist you with the driprail but you gotta be real careful. I use mine to run it along the small curled edge on the bottom of the molding and just give it a little pressure to open up the crimp being careful not to pry. Keep in mind the early cars used aluminum for the driprail while 68-72 used stainless.
Is there a molding tool that you recommend or know off for the molding over the door?
1966 chevelle ss 396 currently in the beginning of the restoration phase!
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Team Chevelle
5.1M posts
115.9K members
Since 1998
A forum community dedicated to Chevrolet Chevelle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restorations, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!