can some one please tell me how to set the pinion angle on a leaf spring car as well as a coil spring car have been told many ways i would like the right way thank you
fowl,
On a leaf spring car, you can use angle wedges between the springs and the perches. On a coil spring car about the only way you can change it is by switching to adjustable control arms, or cutting and welding. All of this is assuming a stock suspension setup.
thanks for the reply . my problem is got an angle finder just neet to figure out what it is set at now heard put angle finder on drive shaft herd put it on the rear its self just need to know how to check it then i can go up or down
man guess im just dense or somthing , he talks about how to get the two numbers off drive shaft and the rearend then he said determain the diffrence between the two which is 2 degrees on his pics but he has 18 degrees shown ge wiz
It's not the angle difference between the driveshaft and the pinion that you are concerned about. It is the angle difference between the front u-joint and the rear u-joint. Therefore, you want to read the angle of the pinion vs. the angle of the trans tail shaft or you can use the harmonic balancer as well. The goal is to have both u-joints operating at the same angle when the driveline is under load to prevent binding and u-joint breakage. If you were worried about the angle difference between the driveshaft and pinion tell me what the pinion angle is on a lifted off road vehicle ?
Take a look at this. This is the correct method for setting pinion angle:
Problem is, when you move the rear pinion up and down, the angle of the d-shaft changes. So after you ajust the pinion to the initial d-shaft angle, what do you do if the d-shaft angle changes?
If I understand this right, you don't adjust the pinion to the d-shaft at all. You adjust it to the engine/transmission. Which of course does not move then you adjust the pinion.
You want to keep the front and rear pinion angles the same when things are under load.
Real easy way to do it is the following.
Get a good reading on your the tailshaft of the transmission. On ours its a -2 degrees. hold your right hand up with your fingers pointed left, and tip your finger tips down a little, this represents the transmission side of things. Now get you want to set your "pinion" angle the opposite of that. So take your left hand (keeping your right hand as I described before) now point your left hand fingers towards the right. With these you want them slightly tipped upward. Now if you shot two infinite lines off your fingertips the lines should NEVER intersect.
Now you have to account slightly for bushing flex and so on. Rule of thumb we have always used is for steel bushings, 1*. For poly bushings 2* and stock rubber about 3*. Remember because the pinion will always raise under acceleration you want to compensate down a little where you want to be at.
Example. Our trans as mentioned is down -2*, so we have our rear pinion set at +1* (steel bushings). At full acceleration the pinion will be at +2*.
Read what I wrote a few times, it will eventually make sense. LOTS of people do not understand this and it can break your bell housing if its not right and your making good power.
If your car is primarily a street car, are you better off running less than 2 to 3* of neg pinion angle to avoid vibrations?
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