Team Chevelle banner

How to make 500 hp from a 383?

26K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  Chirp08 
#1 ·
I was wondering if it is possible to make 500 hp from a naturally aspirated 383 stroker? How streetable would it be? And what parts/rpms would you recommend? And how will torque be?

This will be bolted to a TH350/4.10 rear. Stall will be what it needs to be to match the cam. Also I want to keep this a pump gas friendly car...93 octane is ok.
 
#3 ·
JD,
WHen the GM Aluminum Fast Burn heads were first introduced a few years ago, the description in the GMPP catalog stated that they put a set on a 9.5 to 1 383 with a .540" lift hydraulic roller and made just about 500 hp and a bunch of torque on pump gas. I am thinking of trying to duplicate that exact engine for the Heavy Chevy, but with Holley's multi port fuel injection. I might be a little off on the cam lift, they don,t show it any more in the newer GMPP catalog and I have trashed the old ones.
 
#4 ·
I made 545 @ 6,300rpm with mine...on 87 octane. This meant a solid roller (Comp XR286 - 286/292, 576/582), AFR 210 CNC heads, and Calico coatings on all ports and chambers. Edelbrock RPM Air Gap and Demon 825. 9.75:1 CR. Also Lunati 6-inch rods and pistons (matched 383 kit).

Also made 499.8 ft-lbs. at 4,900 rpm.
Yes, it's more than possible. Get good parts!

SP~!
 
#5 ·
Wow, I'm very amazed to see those numbers on 87 octane!

So lets see....I'd need some AFR 210 heads...what size valves and what cc's did you use? How much $$ for the heads? Did you go assembled or bare castings built-to-your-specs?

Intake I would use an Eddy rpm or air gap...

Solid roller XE286 eh? What about a XE284? And I think it's a hydrulic cam.

I was considering using the World 383 stroker kit that runs for like $1800 or possibly the Eagle stroker kit that runs like $1000.

Calico coatings?? Never heard of that.

Would a 750 cfm v.s. street/strip Holley work? I have one of those sitting around needing a home.

What stall do you use with that cam? What rear gears/trans did you run?

I was thinking a 10.0-10.5:1 c.r.
 
#9 ·
I used the AFR CNC-finished heads as-delivered, but I did change the valve springs to the recomended Comp units. They were not cheap, but I didn't have to do anything to them (except the coating treatment and the valve spring change). I used the RPM Air Gap intake out of the box (untouched- not even port matched).

It's a solid roller XR 286 (PN 12-772-8). I planned to run a solid roller from day 1. I used Comp's composite gear on the MSD dist. and it runs a normal 6AL box. I wanted the Lunati Pro kit because this engine may see spray or a blower in the future (hence the low compression diet of 87 octane now).

If you ahven't heard of Calico Coatings, you're missing out on some almost-free horsepower. Yes - Coatings cost money, but the parts don't have to be modified to be coated. I chose the thermal barrier coating (a kind of porcelain) to insulate the chamber (gotta keep heat in aluminum heads), and to eliminate any sharp edges from the chamber (no hot spots since I'll be fighting detonation on 87). I also coated the ports (the intake to keep the incoming charge cool; the exhaust to keep the outgoing charge hot), and the valves to help both.
A 750 cfm Holley could work, but I got the Demon so I could play with the venturi sizing. It's crispy and responsive at 825 cfm (green sleeves).

The car ('67 Malibu Wagon) is getting a Rockland T-56 (good to 600 ft-lbs), so stall will not be an issue.

I feel 10-10.5:1 would be fine with 91 or higher, but I really wanted to see how much I could get on 87. These numbers were generated at Westech with 1.75-inch dyno headers and 3-inch in/out Magnaflows. No air filter was used, but I do run one on the street.

I temporarily installed the engine in the car with the stock (original '67) Powerglide/converter. It does run, drive, etc. but is less than optimal. Knowing the 6-speed was in the cards made it okay. That greasy 'Glide does not appreciate the newfound torque...

I'll be building on this car on the pages of Street Thunder magazine. If any of you folks got a mailed invitation to join the National Street Car Association car club, Street Thunder is the club magazine. I'm the Editor.

The car will be getting a 9-inch to complement the rest of the drivetrain and already has Hotchkis susp. and big brakes. It will be tested everywhere (dragstrip, road course, skid pad, etc.) and results will be published on the performance of the 87-octane 383 in this car. I intend to fine-tune the combo to it's full potential.

Scott Parkhurst~!
 
#11 ·
Hey Dawg, that's what i am building right now too. so far i have a forged 4340 internal balance crank, forged steel h-beam rods, ross pistons, AFR 195'S (still waiting on them, afr said up to 8 weeks for delivery) I upgraded to 7/16" studs and upgraded springs for the xr288 cam i am gonna run. guy doing the machine work for me told me to expect 500hp easy on pump gas. no stall since i already have my tk0600 sitting in my garage. gonna see how long my 10 bolt lives behind it. but it will be replaced once i recover from the cost of this engine.
 
#12 ·
500 hp is do-able. However, I would check several Hi performance engine builders on the net. They come with warrenties and may be cheaper already assembled and matched than you building your own.

Of course if building one yourself is the thrill then scratch my comments.
 
#16 ·
My short rod 10.4:1 383 should be pumping out pretty close to 500hp at around 6k on 91 octane. Actually probably 480HP or so. I'm using a set of box stock TFS 23 Degree heads, an ISKY rr575 solid roller (Single Pattern - 284 ADV - 244 @ .050 - .576" Lift), Vic Jr intake and a 750 cfm Holley 4150 w/ HP metering blocks and a Proform Main Body. I use Hedman 1-3/4" primary headers and a 3" exhaust. I have about $3500 in the motor. Daily driven as it's my only car. I run a TH350 w/ a 9.5" 3500 stall and 4.10 gears behind it.
 
#17 ·
I think most companies that make stroker kits make one that is for a 396. The hard part is making the 3.875in stroke fit in the block. I have no first hand experience with what it takes to make a 396 stroker but I understand it is not as simple as doing a 383. BUT if you are spending the money on forged parts it ends up costing about the same as a 383.

This article is about a 401 stroker but it is the same principle- I think it's a 401 rather than a 396 because the block has been overbored a few times.
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article31/A-P1.htm
 
#18 ·
My combo is very simple...i opted to go with a flat tappet hydraulic due to maintance, and simplicity. I have a xe284 cam, Comp 1.6 aluminum roller rockers, Eagle crank, 6" eagle h beams, and speed pro pistons. The engine dynoed 469 horsepower@ 5700rpm (not even peak hp) with an RPM intake and 1.5 roller rockers. We then added 1.6 roller rockers to bring up the lift, I should have left the 1.5s on the exhaust end..but i just wasn't that curious, then the vic jr and 1" spacer was installed and the top end boomed. It pulled all the way to 6500rpm, and i was worried about valve float. Peak hp was 494@6400 rpm. I have to admit, the heads are all about horsepower, and AFRs were definetely flowing.
 
#20 ·
383Vette would recomend only using that cam if you have the high flowing heads?

What compression are you running?
Have you tried any other cams?
 
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top