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BBC oil filter leaking - PICS

10K views 35 replies 11 participants last post by  BlackNova 
#1 ·
oil is dripping past the filter. I have a brand new dart block. Everything looks clean as a whistle from underneath. it just started last week. I had a fram hp4 1 week old. swapped it out for a new wix filter. still leaks. just removed the filter adapter. old one has no bypass hole. new one has a bypass. Its spring loaded. Is having this a problem or what? I don't know what the difference really is. Also, old adapter had a gasket on the bottom. I found a gasket in a box of stuff I have and it looks like this might be the gasket for this but im not sure. It sticks out pretty far. the threads were a little marred on the old adapter but the filter was appearing to be tight. is the new adapter I have ok to use. do i use that gasket or is no gasket needed? this is on a 540 making some real power.






 
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#5 ·
put the new (actually the proper stock style) adapter on with no gasket, just like GM did with millions and millions of engines starting in 1956 when they added the oil filter to the small block..
 
#6 ·
ok so I called my engine guy he suggested I use the new one with the bypass but run a plug in it. I pulled the spring assembly out but then decided I didn't like that idea of running a tap and plgging it incase it cracked or came apart. I would probably be fine but I got cold feet on that idea. so I put the old one back in without the gasket (it looked torn) and when I used the bolts it was using before it wouldn't get tight and jiggled around so I then put lock washers on the bolts (felt kind of iffy doing that) but I tried it. I took it for a drive and the leak from the filter slowed way down. but I did still see a drip on the bottom of the filter just now. my concern was the old adapters threads were maybe causing the filter to not screw on perfectly level. and then the question of do I need gaskets on the bottom or not became the next thing to figure out. I think I might just buy a new non bypass adapter. engine builder said the bypass isn't made for racing but I dunno. I think a new part might solve my troubles.
 
#7 ·
Get yourself the Moroso 23775-

And I would agree with not tapping the OEM piece amd that you do not want a bypass style mount. I like ALL the oil going thru the filter! You have lots of money into your engine, you can take the time to warm everything up to proper temps before pounding on it.
 
#9 ·
I have ran a tapped and plugged oem adapter for years used a 1/4" npt tap and plug. You have to tap it deep enough so th plug dont stop the filter from sealing on the block.
Has a new Moroso I ordered last time I freshened the engine but it was backorded so to plugged oem went on instead.

Marcus
 
#10 ·
well I checked under it this morning and theres a good sized puddle on the ground again. something has got to be up with the adapter I have on there now causing the filter to not seal properly I guess. guna see if I can come up with something else locally today
 
#12 ·
The only thing I cam think of is you are running out of threads before you are getting a good seal on the oil filter o ring. or even possibly the wrong filter. Have you taken the oring off the filter to match up to the block itself? It is completely plausable that Dart might have screwed the pooch on the oil filter mating surface,
 
#13 ·
I definitely do not have 2 orings from the filters on there. I had the car on jacks and literally stared at the underneath for 10 minutes wondering what the heck is going on. No local speedshops have an adapter in stock that is non bypass so I need to order one. im tempted today since im home from work early to tap the other one I have for now and see if it atleast works. That way I know that its my old adapter for sure giving me trouble. And I can just swap the new one in when I get it. it didn't leak until last week so I don't think its the blocks fault. Im using a fram HP4 filter and now I have a new Wix filter on it. Does anyone see a problem with using lock washers on the two bolts holding the adapter in. Its like the supplied bolts are a touch too long and wont let the adapter get tight enough. I'll tap the one I have and ive it a whirl and post back with results.

Ill take a few more pics to show what im using and what everything looks like
 
#14 ·
I tried to get a decent pic under there, this was the best I could get. the o-ring on the dilter is just around the edge of the metal. hard to see in the pic I think but maybe you can.



there are the filters im working with both are pretty much brand new and been off and on several times

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heading to hardware store now for a tap and plug we'll see what happens
 
#15 ·
just wasted 9 dollars lol. I didn't tap for the plug enough the first time so ran the tap deeper and now the plug is not snugging up. im ordering the one from summit now before I bust out the jb weld or Teflon tape and waiting til it gets here.

called summit, moroso will be here tomorrow
 
#16 ·
put the moroso on last night but was too late to go test it out. what a nice little piece. I had to buy shorter bolts. all 3 of the adapters I had came with the same length bolts and are all too long. just took the car on a couple mile drive and fingers crossed looked underneath and not a drip of oil! thank god!!
 
#17 ·
the bolts can be too long or the heads too tall. if the baseplate of the filter hits the bolts before the filter is tightened up against the block it'll leak.
 
#18 ·
ok so I went for a longer cruise tonight. thought id check again to make sure all was well and I saw another leak. This is probably the leak that has been haunting me the whole time. or the leak just moved up to another target. either way, I think the Plug in the block, just above where the oil filter goes is leaking. I took the plug out and i can stick my finger in the hole and feel the edge of the adapter to give you an idea what plug im talking about. Whats the best stuff to use to put on this plug? I think im going to replace the valve cover breathers. they are kind of old and oil soaked I don't think the engine is venting enough. What should I use on that plug some permatex or Teflon paste? All I have here is Teflon tape, some orange gasket sealer stuff and rtv.
 
#19 ·
Its a npt plug so usually it doesnt need anything to seal, rtv will work but Id rather use permatex(with brush) or teflon paste. If you use teflon paste dont go to crazy with torque.

Do you run pcv valve to carb on one cover and breather to aircleaner on the other? If just breathers I would change to above if its a street engine.

Marcus
 
#20 ·
the thing is I tried to tighten it, but it didn't snug up. just turned in easily. several rotations from where it was. I think it would have eventually hit the adapter inside had I kept going. So now you got me wondering if something is wrong with the plug?

It just has a breather on each valve cover that's it. im not sure I can really classify it as a street engine even though I do drive it on the street.

taking it out, it had the white residue which looked like the Teflon paste on the threads
 
#24 ·
what Donny said. You're going to have to use brake clean to get ALL the oil out of the threads in the block and off the plug. wipe the RTV into the threads on the plug, likewise in the block. let it sit exposed to air for about 10 minutes. screw the plug in till it's flush on the inside. let it sit overnight to set up good before installing the adapter and filter and starting up the engine.
 
#25 ·
I figured that filter was going to have to come out again....thanks for the tips guys im guna do it today. I have a new tube of permatex ultra copper will this stuff work or should I just get something else?

do I need to a new plug since this one doesn't tighten down and just can screw all the way through?
 
#27 ·
I just went to the parts store I bought the black rtv you pictured, a can of cleaner and a new plug. the new plug is a bit deeper, just test fitting it with no silicone it was snugging up tight unlike the other plug. seems to have a bit of a taper to it. so im using the new one. again thanks for all the help guys
 
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