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Garage corner re-do

10K views 29 replies 11 participants last post by  MonteMan454 
#1 ·
Hey guys,
I am re-doing a portion of my garage. I bought a larger air compressor so it was necessary to take down the old shelving etc..Any ideas?

Here is the old shelving/air compressor setup etc



This is most of the old shelving removed..



I decided to secure the armored cable better. I will try to take my time and do things right this time. I used 1x6x6 foot fence board (cheap and a good size)
 
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#2 ·
Buy some concrete anchors and bolt it to the floor with 1/4" rubber pads to isolate it. Put it as far back in to the corner as you can and loose all of the wood pieces to clean the look up. Hopefully you bought a belt driven pump as those twin cylinder Craftsman models are way too loud.
 
#3 ·
Hey Kevin,
Yes I bought a 60 gallon 5hp. I look at a Campebell Hausefield instructional video on YouTube and they recommend it being 18 inches away from the wall? I will use the 1/4 rubber and bolt it down to the floor..



I am also considering buying another tool chest (a 41 inch wide model) to go beside the compressor. I was going to put up peg board and shelving, and get rid of the old lumber on the wall..
 
#4 ·
My garage space is somewhat limited..isn't it always? Despite a 3 car garage we have 4 cars so space is impt. My house is built in such a way that the basement is along a part of one garage wall. Only about 10 feet of the wall but that was enough. I put the compressor in the basement and just ran a hose up the basement wall, and thru the garage wall sheet rock. When I need air the hose is in the garage hanging on the wall. The compressor is in the basement where it does not eat up space I gotta have in the garage.
 
#5 ·
Another thought is if there is a clear area next to an external wall you could pour a small concrete pad and build a small enclosure to protect the compressor and run your compressor lines through the exterior wall. Keeps the noise down in the garage too. Just hope your neighbors are understanding if you have a loud motor.
 
#7 ·
Thanks guys! great tips!
 
#8 ·
I got the same compressor,i left it on the pallet it came on been that way for 2yrs now with no problems.
 
#9 ·
The anti-fatigue mats that you see in every hardware store that piece together like a puzzle work great for isolators. I cut some and put it between then concrete and legs on mine and it works perfect. Dirt cheap too. They are thick heavy foam with a rubberized outer shell.
 
#12 ·
Hey guys,
I wish I could knock out a wall and make the garage bigger or add a compressor area.

Since I live in townhouse I would probably be building it into my neighbours kitchen, although they could use the blow gun to help clean dishes..

I bought a sheet of 3/8 thick neoprene rubber that should act as anti-vibration material. I did not want to use my autographed Wayne Gretzky pucks as pads.. HA HA

I have since removed most of the old lumber and re-did some wiring. I will post up some update pics soon...
 
#13 ·
I tore down most of the old wood shelving and put some 2X4/2X3's up on all the studs. This should ease the install of shelving etc. I will put some pegboard/wood paneling up on the studs. I also bought a tool chest from Harbor Freight, it was $359 (using a coupon from Hot Rod). It looks sharp and it is well made! This is a man's version of interior decorating!

I cut up the 3/8 thick rubber (for the feet) but I think I will wait until I buy this kit (to make the tank easier to drain) before I bolt the compressor to the floor (for potential clearance purposes with the drain kit).

http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-PA3005/p430.html

I have been researching running air lines. It is a small garage (19 feet wide X 17 feet long) so I am think thinking of running 1 line off that. It would start off the air compressor with a 3 foot length of high strength flexible braided hose (made by a hydraulics shop), going into a 1/2 inch copper type M tubing running up for 4 feet. Then it would go along the ceiling for 10 feet and drop down to a filter and regulator..
OR should I just run a hose right off the air compressor?? Could the small amount of copper tubing (14 feet total) do much good (for reducing moisture) for such a short run??






 
#14 ·
You'll want to remove any water in your lines if you want to paint or sandblast. I used 50' of pipe running up to the ceiling and sloping along the wall and back to the compressor. It drops down to a drip leg then goes through a dessicant dryer then a filter and the regulator.

You need a drip leg any time the pipe drops. You make them with a tee, a 6" nipple and a valve so you can drain it.

I'll post a pic later when I can shrink the size. The pics my iPhone takes are too big.
 
#15 ·
#17 ·
Probably something like this guy did except attached to some plywood on the ceiling...

 
#19 ·
Good idea Chris, I bought some cheap ($3.00 per 4x4 sheet) fake wood paneling to cover the inaccessible areas (areas unable to hang stuff) . The rest I am hoping to use pegboard where possible..
I tried to bolt down the compressor with 5 inch anchor bolts and no luck. I will try some 7 inchers..more updates to come..KP
 
#20 ·
Hey Kris

I used concrete inserts like these. http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/lag-shield/index.aspx They use a standard 3/8" lag bolt.

The dessicant dryer is from Princess Auto. They go on sale every once in a while. I also used a hydraulic hose from the tank to the piping. I put a ball valve before the hose and shut it every night in case of a fire.
 

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#21 ·
Thanks for the tips Ron! I might have to go with a concrete insert, the concrete is getting soft (40+ years old) and they did not seem to pour very much of it (3-6 inches??) I might ending using the hockey puck idea, the rubber is getting a few too many holes from failed anchor installs.
I have been reading about the Princess dessicant dryer, I might pick that up (sometimes $39) because the budget is looking lean to setup all the 50 ft of piping. I might use the black piping and cap it off to leave room for further improvements. I could be re-doing my front balcony and then I could run the zig zag lines up there (the garage ceiling is below the balcony).
 
#22 ·
One of the benefits of having a decent size compressor/receiver, you will have less problems with water in the air supply.
When using a small compressor that runs constantly with a small receiver, the receiver will operate at a temperature higher than the condensing temperature. The air is saturated with water vapor and when it travels through the supply pipes it will cool and the water will be in the piping system and the hoses.
The larger compressor having less run time and more receiver surface area will be better able to condense the water in the receiver. Depending on your usage you may find that you do not need to purchase an air drier.
You will want to change the oil shortly after break-in just like you do with your new engine.
Take a close look at the air filter. A lot of the new units have a sponge inside a plastic enclosure that leak at the seams. Most of the compressor noise comes from ther air intake and the noise can be reduced significantly by sealing the air cleaner housing with duct tape.
Another trick is to replace the foam element with a more dense sponge type filter.
Final note: If you use any copper piping you should sil fos or silver solder the joints. Soft solder shouldn't be used especially if you have a two stage air compressor and are running pressures above 125 psi.

Squido
 
#23 ·
Thanks Squido, I noticed I was getting water when I was using my 30 Gallon "6 hp" model. I will look at the filter.
I will look into changing the oil, I already had to drain it because I transported to my place on its side. There is also a "break in" procedure that must be done too..(ie let it run for awhile with the tank unplugged)
I have some old solder I might use (if I go copper) leftover from the 60s (from my grandads tool kit). It is probably pretty strong..
I also tried to bolt down the compressor this weekend. The anchor bolts do not work! The pad is only like 3 inches thick--so the bolts just keep sinking in!! I bought some anchor inserts and then I started to rachet the lag bolts and the first one snapped!!! So I gotta use shorter lag bolts (3 inches or so)...
 
#24 ·
They never give you enough room underneath for the drain piping. I need to raise my compressor about 2 inches to give me space to put a catch container under the valve.

When you install your reducing valve and water bowl/filter. Keep the water bowl on the high pressure side of the regulator. The water vapor condenses easier the higher the pressure.

Squido
 
#25 ·
I got the compressor bolted down. On a thin pad (3 inch or so) use the concrete anchor inserts and 3 inch or so lag bolts. I used berner's tip of using the hockey pucks as anti-vibration pads. I also installed the Campbell Hausefiel drain kit. It will make draining the tank much easier...



The wiring is all done now including the compressor. I secured it as best as I can..



I popped into the truck supply store (Malmberg here in Ottawa) and bought some fittings for the -10 teflon braided hose that goes from the tank to the wall. While there one of the guys I bracket race against (who works there) suggested I use some tractor trailer 5/8 brake line called Eaton Synflex. It would be able to withstand the PSI from the compressor, would not shatter &durable..I got it for a decent price too!! I will be using this and going 25 feet or so. I dropped into Princess Auto and took a look at the dryer, I will wait until it goes on sale (hopefully soon) and pick up the rest of the air line supplies as well (filter&regulator)...I will start on the shelving in the meantime, and use some old paint to paint the area up..
 
#26 ·
Hey guys,
I am building a deck for the balconey (the wife's request-- green astro turf carpet didn't cut it anymore) so I am little sidetracked..
I got the compressor lines up, regulator/filter installes, dryer installed. The Synflex lines work great!! I am just welding up some 1.5x1.5 tubing for a rack for my steel. I will get some pics up soon!
 
#27 ·
Hey guys,
I am finally nearing the finish line. I installed the lines (used 25 ft before the dryer), welded up a hanging rack for steel, and I also received another tool chest from my girlfriend's grandmother (tool chest was from her deceased husband). Now, I am just organizing it all trying to keep in mind ideas fro making it better...











 
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