I'm sure some you guys have been reading my progress with working on my car and I want to thank you for all the help.
As well, I hope I'm not wearing out my welcome with all the questions/threads.
today my car just started dieing on me and won't start for another 10mins or so. When it does it's very rough. I smell gas so I'm not concerned with it not getting enough fuel. It actually backfired on a couple start ups with this new problem, started rough and backfired. Then it runs and idles fine for a couple minutes then runs rough and dies. I tried once it would start again to hold my foot to 1200rpms or so and just let it run and then after a couple minutes it just dies?
Is this a condenser issue? Coil issue? Fouled plugs?
I did notice right before it started on my way back from a ride the coil was hot.
Any help on this is appreciated as the car doesn't run now.
If you're using an HEI distributor, did you run/use a solid 12v connecting 12-14 gauge wire from the ignition source [fuse block, that says ign.] instead of the stock resistance wire to the distributor.
I've seen engines backfire on start-ups & not start at all, when using the stock resistance wire, instead of the proper 12-14 gauge wire for HEI's ...
1.) Do you have +12 volts at the HEI distributor ???
2.) Are the connectors for the wires, firmly plugged into the terminals on the distributor cap ????
i checked all the wires connections on my stock points dist cap.
points look fine. (what happens when a condenser goes bad?)
i checked voltage of the coil and it has has voltage. (pulled the short wire to the dist and hooked a meter to it, puts out voltage when cranking.)
the car wants to start fires up for a second or two then wont run, dies.
choke opened or closed makes no difference.
i pulled the #2 plug and its wet with gas.
puzzled that it was running fine all of a sudden has this issue.
Probably not this but once when I was 18 (Long Long time ago) I bought a 67 SS for $500 because the guy threw up his hands in frustation when he had a similar thing happening to his Chevelle. I rushed (ran) home, got the cash, and my dad in his truck to pull the car home. Got to looking around and noticed a second wire on the coil so I took it off. It went to the factory installed tach that was shorting out at a certain rpm and would continue to short out until it slobbered all over itself and finally died. Anyhow, took the wire to the coil off and about an hour later that 396/4 speed was screaming.
Turn the key to the "Run" position (not "Start") and then check the voltage at the coil with a multimeter from the + side of the coil to a good ground point - like one of the rear carb to manifold bolts.
You should have 9-ish volts.
Get everything set up for the test before you turn the key to Run, then take the measurement. Leaving the key in Run for too long can cook the points.
First I would remove all that tape and see what is under there. usually what is found are some bad connections. Most times there will be wires just twisted together. There should be a resistor wire from the fuse block and a yellow wire from the starter solenoid R terminal to the battery side of the coil. There should be 12v while cranking and about 9v when the engine is running on the battery terminal at the coil. The - terminal is the ground through the point contacts. If you are in doubt about the capacitors being good, disconnect them, if the problem goes away then replace them.
I have had 2 of those red coils go bad and 2 yellow ones. After making sure the wiring is good, check for spark, It needs to be blue not yellow or orange. Once you are getting good spark and you are sure the carburetor is not flooding replace the spark plugs. If they get saturated with fuel the porcelain insulator can become conductive allowing the spark to arc up inside the plug and not fire properly.
You get 12V when the key is in the Run position? You shouldn't.
With a points ignition system you should have around 9V at the + (Batt) side of the coil when the key is in the Run position. A constant 12V through the points will kill them pretty quickly - that's why the voltage is reduced to 9 when the engine is running - the points can handle 9 for extended periods.
When the key is turned to the START (cranking) position the points do get 12V to help with starting, then the key goes to Run and the points get only 9. If you have 12 in Run - that's a problem and could explain why it won't start now - the points may be fried.
see the braid covering on the wire circled in the photo, that indicates the resistor wire. It is a heat shield to protect the other wires in the loom. With the points closed it should have less than battery voltage at the + terminal of the coil, usually around 9v. The other wire should have battery voltage while cranking the starter.
Interesting - and stretching my knowledge of electricity I'm afraid. I'm really curious though, and since the resistor wire in my '66 is live but not being used (not connected) so I can easily verify.
Good job Mark, glad you got it sorted.
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