Ok, my '71's frame is currently in so so condition. It's not rusted out but there are some welds that have good sized cracks in them, not painted or anything etc.

Anyway, here's the situation. This winter i'm doing a bunch of suspension work and rear end swap. I am going to be putting new bushings throughout the whole car, as well as swapping in a 12 bolt rear end.

I have a 70 parts car with a perfect frame that is painted and everything, the frame is already out from under the car and sitting in front of my shop. The 12 bolt i'm going to use is also under it but coming out for work anyway.

My main question is, should I just take the car to a welding shop after I get my suspension/rear end work done and get the frame fixed up? Or while i'm changing the body bushings should I just pull the frame out and put the other one in from the parts car? How much work is changing the frame? I know it's actually pretty easy to take out, it's just all the little things that would be a pain like fuel and brake lines.

Thanks,

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Chris Dagenais
Saskatchewan
'71 Malibu with a home built 454!
"Hard work MAY pay of in the long run, but laziness pays off NOW"
My Page (http://www.ycworld.net)

Chris. I would opine that it depends on how much space/money/time/desire you have. Is the car a keeper ?? If so then you can "fall in love" and dump alot of the aformentioned into it. If the donor frame is as you say, was it inspected by you and are you sure IT'S welds and overall condition are sound ? If you are sure,then I would replace the frame. Assuming this isn't your daily driver and you have inside shop space for working and protection. You could also have one of those handy certified mobile welders roll by for a nominal fee, and you would be getting expert frame repairs. If I were you, I would have the donor frame inspected and detailed, and then have EVERY SINGLE component (nuts bolts clips brake fuel lines bushings suspension etc) ready to go so you finish that thing in one shot. If you get halfway done,and money/time/entheusiasm run out, then you may abandon the whole deal and get frustrated. If you are keeping the car for along time,then I would go the donor route...then you can plan to get your floorpans nicely detailed. I HIGHLY suggest going to JeffK's webpage where he goes into detail via pictures and words about swapping the body/frame. He is very good. Let me know if I can assist you further either here, or by my email. Take Care-Shawn in Truckee, CA (presently dumping in excess of nearly 2 feet of powder since wednesday morning)

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My '71 is definitely a keeper, i've had it for almost 4 years now and I plan on having it until somebody pries the steering wheel from my cold dead fingers.

The car is not really a restoration project as it's in good shape already, i'm just setting it up for racing a bit more as I just built a 454 for it last year. I mainly bought the parts car for the sheet metal and 12 bolt rear end, the done up frame was just a bonus. If I swap the frames I will be changing things lke the fuel line etc but i'm not going to be detailing anything, rust proofing is all it needs. PERSONALLY I don't care what the underside of my car looks like as long there's no oil on it and it's not rusting out.

My time frame is until spring, which gives me probably until about half way through april. I have an heated shop and everything, space and tools are a non issue as I have everything needed. I already have financing lined up for my desired work this winter so money SHOULD not be an issue either. I'll definitely have to take a look at jeffk's site, thanks for the tip.



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Chris Dagenais
Saskatchewan
'71 Malibu with a home built 454!
"Hard work MAY pay of in the long run, but laziness pays off NOW"
My Page (http://www.ycworld.net)

The extra expenses you'll incur by using the donor frame will be off set by the expenses of fixing up your old frame.
It will be more work, but if you were going to change the bushings you're most of the way there.

Gandalft80, go back and read BLURAT's post again and do just as he said, that is right on the money. If I can add, swapping the brake and fuel lines before the body swap may not be as easy but it can get you a long way past the "burntout zone" when you swap the body.
This is a pretty easy project, but it is a big one none the less, give it the respect it deserves.
I wouldn't be so concerned with a crack or two in the frame, just weld them. What does concern me is "WHY" is it cracked to begin with, sounds like it has had a hard life and the other frame may be the ticket.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T

As always, check with the local Motor Vehicle Department for the rules on frame swaps. Since both the body and the frame have VIN's, it will matter to someone.

The frame swap is not that difficult if you have time,room ,and equipment. I just finished a 1957 Chevy and did a complete rolling chassis,engine, exhaust,suspension and had everything painted . The body was painted seperate from frame . Some shops use hoists to support both ends of body then roll frame under body. I used an engine lift to raise the back of the body and had a jig that went thru the body ,attached to door hinge holes, and legs that sat on floor and had screws jacks like a trailor . With the engine on the frame , we backed the frame under the body . If you go engine first the body would have to go alot higher so the engine would clear . Linr up frame to body mounts and be sure it is even on both sides etc. THe actual frame replace was not difficult. Keep in mind though this was to be a nice show car and we replaced all brake , gas lines and ever thing on the frame was detailed .
A few cracks could welded and that is no big deal.
On the vin on the frame if you replace it most the vin derivatives has probally rusted away by now . REstamp the numbers along with your ssn in case the car is ever stolen and police have use thhese nbrs to id car .
I hope this will help you decide .
If you have enough buddies you could lift the body but the way we did this was easy to lower slowy and shift frame to fit. remember though the 4 dr frames are 4 inches longer so you need the same frame as your body