I am going to be doing some repairs to my 67 BB hood soon. My plan is to strip to bare metal, weld up 3 holes that are drilled for a emblem that I don't need, apply some filler, etch prime with DX1791, then surfacer ect.

It may take me a while to do the welding/filler work ect before it gets the DX1791.

The garage is heated & dry, but I was going to strip the hood at work & do the welding at my Dads hose so I will be transporting the hood outside (not in direct rain).

Will the bare metal be ok for a week or two while I slowly work on the repairs?

Hopefully when you say strip it you are NOT talking about using a sand blaster and using sand. If you do I'll bet ya 2 Ben Franklins you will be finding a new hood to use!!

Id only strip the areas that you will be repairing. Do your repairs then finish stripping the hood. You dont want that metal bare longer then need be. Even thou you wont be able to see it mirco sized rust spots will be developing.

You could strip the hood, etch prime then spray epoxy or your urethane primer. Move the hood to your working location. When you are ready to repair a spot remove the paint on that area. Do your welding, filler work then spot prime those repaired areas back.

Having it primed like that will prevent that flash rust from showing up but as only if it stays dry.

Just a few ideas thrown at you...Eric

Thanks Eric, I am going to use my D/A to strip the hood. I need to strip the whole thing because there is some really bad bodywork covering some dents ect & I want to see exactly what I have.

Maybey it would be a better idea to just keep the hood at home to do the work.

Does flash rust form in a dry heated shop?

I'm stripping my '67. I've had half the car down to the metal for a over month in a gas heated shop. There is no sign of new rust anywhere.

The air you breathe contains OXYGEN and MOISTURE. Two things that cause rust to form. You might not be able to see that rust but its there.

Thanks guys I get the idea, keep the bare metal time down to a minimum. Maybey I'll go the etch/epoxy/filler route. That way I wont be rushing the filler work worried about bare metal.

I prefer to strip the panels completely, then apply epoxy primer. I then go back and make my repairs as needed, welding, bump work etc. Any job I really care about gets epoxy primer applied before any filler work. The epoxy makes an excellent substrate for polyester to adhere to and has worked excellent for me. If you use a chemical stripper to remove the old finish make sure to neutralize with water. I've seen adhesion problems when people don't do the water rinse after chemical stripping going directly to a DA to finish. Sometimes if I go the chemical strip route and won't be priming for awhile, I don't do the water rinse and the light amount of residue left from the stripper protects the panel until I'm ready to continue. The rate at which your sheetmetal corrodes is very dependant on the amount of humidity, my garage has a heated floor which keeps humidity very low-concrete holds moisture like a sponge.

Originally posted by baddbob71:
I prefer to strip the panels completely, then apply epoxy primer. I then go back and make my repairs as needed, welding, bump work etc. Any job I really care about gets epoxy primer applied before any filler work. The epoxy makes an excellent substrate for polyester to adhere to and has worked excellent for me. If you use a chemical stripper to remove the old finish make sure to neutralize with water. I've seen adhesion problems when people don't do the water rinse after chemical stripping going directly to a DA to finish. Sometimes if I go the chemical strip route and won't be priming for awhile, I don't do the water rinse and the light amount of residue left from the stripper protects the panel until I'm ready to continue. The rate at which your sheetmetal corrodes is very dependant on the amount of humidity, my garage has a heated floor which keeps humidity very low-concrete holds moisture like a sponge. I agree graemlins/thumbsup.gif From what I have learned here and now, done myself, I think stripping (you may want to use the Kleen Strip brand gel stripper for $15/gal at Home Depot) and then applying an etch and epoxy primer, you'll be good to go and can take your time.... graemlins/thumbsup.gif
http://users.ev1.net/~jaaustin/chevelle/hood_stripped_bot.jpg
http://users.ev1.net/~jaaustin/chevelle/hood_primed_bot.jpg