Ok, I bought a oil filter adapter from Autozone a month or two ago. But now I see people talking about a bypass valve should be in there. Mine don't have one.

I'm not sure about this, so please help me out...

What parts are needed for a proper spin on conversion for a 1967 block?

And are any of these parts used with the canister or is that another kit?

Thanks, for any help....

So does anyone have an idea what is needed?

Ok, after alot of reading, I found my answer.

Just need to keep the bypass plate and get a adapter kit like MRG-1270 or TRD-1059.

Whatever adapter you get make sure the threaded nipple for the filter is fastened securely to the adapter. I had one vibrate out on my '62 Impala and the filter fell off, fortunately I was only 2 blocks from home amd shut it off right away. The only warning I got was something hitting the bottom of the car I looked in the rear view mirror and saw the filter and trail of oil and shut it off immediately. Over the years the nipple had slowly worked it's way out of the adapter until at the last oil change there was only about one thread holding it in which wasn't apparent to me as the adapter had been installed long before I bought the car. About 1500 miles after the last oil change it finally let go, just glad it wasn't on the Interstate at 75 MPH two states from home!

I need to revive this post. Where is this bypass valve. I need to get the filter adapter and they all say to use the original bypass valve. It's a fresh block,there's no valve in there.

You can find one at Parigon Corvette and I also have seen them in a couple chevelle restoration catalogs. Check out Parigon, OPGI, or maybe Ground Up might have them.

Thanks Rodeo

Whatever adapter you get make sure the threaded nipple for the filter is fastened securely to the adapter. I had one vibrate out on my '62 Impala and the filter fell off, fortunately I was only 2 blocks from home amd shut it off right away. The only warning I got was something hitting the bottom of the car I looked in the rear view mirror and saw the filter and trail of oil and shut it off immediately. Over the years the nipple had slowly worked it's way out of the adapter until at the last oil change there was only about one thread holding it in which wasn't apparent to me as the adapter had been installed long before I bought the car. About 1500 miles after the last oil change it finally let go, just glad it wasn't on the Interstate at 75 MPH two states from home!

I had the same thing happen on my 66SS last summer. The pipe thread was in too far and I could one spin the filter on about a 1/4 turn. It fell off but I was lucky the pipe thread was still there and could put another filter on to get home. I probably didnt tighten it enough too perhaps but im pretty good about that. Plus there were no leaks what so ever and I was already a 1000 miles on that oil change anyways. Unfortunately, I was a much farther then 2 blocks from my house. Like 20 miles too far.

I replaced it with a new adapter kit from WIX. The pipe threads were always loose and could easily be removed if I wanted to. But the filter had always kept tight until then.

That was one of the reason I decided to just put the old style canister filter setup back on my engine. Instead of trying to figure out the spin on setup and hope that it filtered fine like that, I just got a canister setup off eBay.