In my atempt to figure out how much clearence I have for a new set of wheels I have discovered that I have more clearence on the drivers rear than on the passenger rear. The measurement I took was simple, tape to the sidewall of tire to outside of fender, 3 1/8" on drivers side, 2 1/2" on passengers side, 5/8"s difference. Would I be correct in assuming that the body needs to go 5/16's towards the passenger side. I would think that I would need to loosen the body mounts to make this happen. What are the locations and which ones would allow for this adjustment? Anyone come across a deal like this / fix? Thanks, Craig

The only thing I wonder is how you can shift the body on the frame being that the frame mount holes dont move? Wouldnt it just line itself back up the same way? I know this doesnt help but I am curious. Mine is similar but it is because my frame is tweaked a little (currently looking for a new one).

When I replaced the body mount bushings on my 68, I found that the body had slid back on the frame by about 1/2 to 5/8 from a previous front-ender I suppose. A couple of the bolts were visibly bent. I would look at the body bushings/bolts to check for damage there.

edit: I think you will need to loosen all of the body moount bushings to get the body on there straight. I'm not sure what the proper procedure is for aligning a car on the frame, I basicly just threaded the bolts and let the frame sort of suspend from the body. Gravity did all the work.

This post will never be a complete as MARTINSR's Basics of Basics, but maybe this will help.
The frame and the body have two completely different functions. The body carries passengers, and driver, frame does all the work to carry driveline to propel and steer. Yeah I Know-- Well DUH. :rolleyes: :confused:
I Know this is obvious, however you need to make sure what the problem really is. Accurate measuring is the only way to verify.
While it may be something as simple as shifting body on frame please check some other things first.
Measure to insure rear axel housing is centered on frame. Measure to verify that the wheel wells are the same width from inner lip(just above frame) to outer pinch weld flange. Measure to insure that there is, a difference from side to side between inner rocker and frame rail. Check distance at both front and rear of inner rocker. Measurement SHOULD be equal from side to side.
Check clearance between fan blade and fan shroud, it should be even from side to side. Does the front sheetmetal fit well---uniform gaps all around---.
What did you find? If the inner rocker to frame measurements confirm your wheelhouse measurement, and all others are real close, then you are probably correct in considering a body shift to be the problem. Remember, axel housing should be centered on frame.
If your mounts have been replaced or the vehicle has been off frame recently, this is not too tough. If it has never been apart, you can end up with broken bolts, broken nut cages etc. Not Fun.
Loosen ALL body mount bolts, including core support mounts. You don't want anything binding. Front sheetmetal will float with body. Measure again, including from a location on rear tires or wheel to the rear edge of rocker panel. Check clearance on bumpers, as on most models, when you shift the body the bumpers don't move. An assembled body is heavy, you will need some leverage, and some volunteers to lift and jiggle body in the direction you want to go. Best spot for volunteers, is each side at center of rear wheel opening. Lift and jiggle as if they were trying to slide whole car sideways in stall. Leverage applied to lower rocker, pry against frame. Be careful not to damage rockers or 1/4 panels. Measure again. Hopefully you have been successful.
My elky has been on and off the frame more than once, all threads are clean, new mounts and body bolts, body is gutted, frame and floors are clean, doors (gutted) and hood and fenders on car. Under these ideal conditions I loosen,shift, and refit body in less than 15 minutes. These are perfect conditions. I also have slip jacks and duck bill portapower. Yours will take longer.
The completed shift should result in the following: Bumpers fit, fan shroud gap even to blade, front sheetmetal fits, rocker measurement uniform from side to side, and bingo-- your wheel lips are even to tires.
Good luck
Karl

I dont know Karl, I think you did a pretty good job :D

Thanks very much for the excellent response. Great info and has helped me out alot! I have just returned from the garage, with what I have learned from this posting is that all is OK. In all area's that I checked (per Karl's post)every thing came up with in 1/8" from passenger / drivers side. Thats good news. I also determined that my original measurements were sloppy and in error! Thanks team for the help! Craig