Been sanding my '72 Malibu like crazy to remove the 3 layers of paint +bondo (that mostly wasn't needed) Using a Random Orbital Sander 40 -> 80 -> 120 Grit Then a couple coats of rustoleum primer, 500 grit block sanding and another coat of primer.

Am I doing this right? I plan on getting a professional paint job, but for now i'd like to get as much work done myself as possible.

thanks, -Dan

Are you talking "rattle can" primer? If so, not a good idea. You will need to remove ALL of it before you put a "real" paint job on it. And if your spraying with a gun, get the real deal from a auto paint store, not a hardware store paint.

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Dave Bradley
www.corvetteforum.net/classics/d1_bradley (http://www.corvetteforum.net/classics/d1_bradley)
'69 SS396 ragtop
'33 3W Coupe
'65 Vette BB Roadster

Agree, also Rustoleum may not be chemically compatable with whatever automotive finish you choose. Could have lifting of finish, peeling or flaking. Do some additional review of paint prep procedures, buy a book, video and find ALL MARTINSR'S posts Good Luck, Karl

I am using a "rattle can" primer, but should have a sprayer available to me soon, that i'll use for the final priming coat

Those guys are right. You may have some serious lifting problems. Rattle can primer is certainly not the right thing to do for bare metal prep. Your finished product is only as good as your foundation. Consult the pro that you intend to have paint the car. He probably has a special preferance for primer be it metal prep, build primer, or sealer. Certain products are not compatable with others and should you proceed w/the wrong one you may be striping your paint off again.
Good luck with everything.

Primed72-- Check out my additional comments on priming under "rattle can primer" on other thread running. Good Luck Karl

To my knowledge the "rustolum" brand products have a "fish oil" or some damn thing like that to fight rust. DO NOT USE IT.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"