: mystery bolt
68454SS Jul 29th, 05, 2:14 PM A little while ago I noticed that my car tended to pull to the left under acceleration. Upon investigating this, I noticed that the bolt that connects the no-hop bar to the rear upper passenger side control arm was gone. No problem I thought, I'll just get a new bolt and be back in business! Well, I am having some real trouble finding a 4" long grade 8 bolt that is threaded for the entire length of the bolt. You see, the bolt goes through the control arm, threads through the no-hop bar, then back out the other end of the control arm and the nut secures it. All the bolts that I have found that are long enough are only threaded for a little less than half the length of the bolt. This doesn't work since the bolt can't go in all the way. Do I have to order a special bolt? There are no brand markings on my no-hop bars, so I really don't know what company to contact. Is this really that strange of a bolt that I shouldn't be able to find it somewhere?!?
BillsCamino Jul 29th, 05, 2:32 PM Are you sure it threads thru the no hop bar? I've never seen that...
68454SS Jul 29th, 05, 3:04 PM Believe me, it does. I initially thought that it just 'slid through' and connected on the other side. This is not the case, which really stumps me as to HOW the bolt worked loose in the first place. I mean, if it had broken, there would be pieces left in the threaded part, right? But there is no evidence of the bolt at all, like it was unbolted and removed. Oh well, the search continues. As a band-aid fix, I took two 1 3/4" bolts and ran one in each end to they meet in the middle so to speak. I'm just worried though about them working loose since they basically are not 'held in' by a nut right now.
chevry Jul 29th, 05, 7:53 PM I really dont know what you're dealing with, but you can make a bolt like you are looking for.
Buy a bolt of the correct length and pitch, even though the threads dont go all the way down. Buy a thread die of the correct diameter and thread pitch, and a T-bar for it (or you can use a 1" socket for some, but the T-bar is better). Cut threads down the shank.
I have successfully created bolts this way, allthread this way, and altered bolt diameters this way. You can even change the thread pitch if going to a smaller diameter.
Just go slow, reverse often, and use oil.
http://www.burntlatke.com/jpg600/thread-die.jpg
I only offer this as a solution to the problem of finding the bolt you are looking for. I have no idea what you are using it for ;)
Sears has tap&die sets, and individual pieces too I think. Hdwre stores probably do too. I just got an 18mm tap at NAPA, so you could try there too.
supersport396_2000 Aug 2nd, 05, 4:08 PM uhh, thats weird...
Make a new one or use a smaller bolt and spacers , IF it isnt part of the actual suspension.
JYD71_454 Aug 2nd, 05, 5:00 PM What's the bolt diameter and thread pitch?
ssal396 Aug 6th, 05, 12:36 PM I don't think the bolt threads through the No Hop bar.. The point where the upper meets the no hop bar has a pretty good load on it, that is to say that the no hop bar twists in the upper & I think thats why it seems to thread in..
Scott
How is the oppasit sp side? I think that there is a burr or somthing catching not actual threads. try pounding in a standard bolt.
68454SS Aug 8th, 05, 1:26 AM Well, if the load on the bolt imprinted a burr or thread on the inside of the bar, then it imprinted a perfect 13 pitch 1/2" bolt pattern! Seriously, believe me, it IS threaded. The other side is the same way. I got a bolt from nutsandbolts.com and all is well.
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