: Using Tin/Lead
70_chevelle Nov 12th, 01, 2:19 PM I'm replacing both my rear quarters. I've welded all the seams and now I'm wonder how to clean it up. I ordered the lead kit from Eastwood because I've always been told lead is the way to go but lately I've heard people talking about the ALL METAL filler.
So, lead or All Metal filler? And who make the All Metal filler?
Thanks,
Lee
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1970 ZZ502 Chevelle (http://www.1970chevelle.net)
1967 ZZ502 Camaro 12.04@115 (http://www.1967camaro.net)
1997 Yukon 4x4 13.7@98 (http://www.blown4x4.com)
TEAM CANADA Nov 12th, 01, 5:04 PM I was asking myself the same question. ALL METAL is made by USC, I might buy it, I was going to use lead, but I've never used it, and I'm afraid of heating up the metal and warping it. Check out this link:
http://www.thomasregister.com/olc/uscandp/usc9b.htm
Unclepennybags Nov 12th, 01, 7:40 PM You don't NEED to use lead, and it is a little bit of extra work, but it is cool to do. I like to use lead it is waterproof which is an asset if your weld isn't perfect. Eastwood sells a book that tells you how to do lead work.
If you do use lead consider using a propane torch. This will help you keep from overheating the panel. After the lead is applied and you want to file or sand it wear gloves, a dust mask, and don't use power sanding equipment on it. You don't want to make a lot of lead dust. Fine sandpaper should be avoided for the same reason.
Mike
Unclepennybags Nov 12th, 01, 7:41 PM You don't NEED to use lead, and it is a little bit of extra work, but it is cool to do. I like to use lead it is waterproof which is an asset if your weld isn't perfect. Eastwood sells a book that tells you how to do lead work.
If you do use lead consider using a propane torch. This will help you keep from overheating the panel. After the lead is applied and you want to file or sand it wear gloves, a dust mask, and don't use power sanding equipment on it. You don't want to make a lot of lead dust. Fine sandpaper should be avoided for the same reason.
Mike
AlMyPal39 Nov 12th, 01, 9:17 PM Lead doesn't crack like filler. Also, filler, if chipped or exposed, can asorb moisture and rust out a panel.
Jimmy P Nov 13th, 01, 5:34 AM Just a note. If you do use lead, don't acid etch it or use a self etching primer. The lead will absorb the acid and 'leach' it off slowly through time. This will cause bubbling in the paint later on. Just be sure to remove all rust and oxidation mechanically and clean the the metal very well with lacquer thinner. Use a quality 2 part urethane primer.
70_chevelle Nov 13th, 01, 7:51 AM Thanks everyone for the replies...
It appears that it is a good way to go. I will be painting it Kandy Cobalt Blue from House of Kolors and they suggest using their 2 part epoxy primer. I have already used this in the engine compartment. I have read several posts stating you should use metal etching primers on bare metal so I hope their epoxy primer is the correct way to go.
One last question: Once I fill it with lead, should I use all metal filler to finish any bad spots left on the lead then use a feathering filler to finish the edges? Or regular bondo type filler?
Thanks,
Lee
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1970 ZZ502 Chevelle (http://www.1970chevelle.net)
1967 ZZ502 Camaro 12.04@115 (http://www.1967camaro.net)
1997 Yukon 4x4 13.7@98 (http://www.blown4x4.com)
Jimmy P Nov 13th, 01, 8:04 AM Yes, you should use self-etching primer or an acid etch on bare metal. That means STEEL! Not lead! Treat the steel up to the lead if you want with an etching product, but keep it off of the lead.
Coat the surface with your urethane primer then fill the low spots with a plastic filler such as Evercoat glazing. Prime again over that once it's been smoothed. You'll have better adhesion that way.
SS_Dave Nov 13th, 01, 10:32 AM All Metal is water proof and has no micro balloon fillers that can absorbe water. It is basicly resin and aluminum dust. It is pretty good stuff, except it will still shrink. If you have to put it on any thicker than 1/16 or so, you may have to go over it a couple times to finally get it filled in. The ideal way to go about it, is make sure you slap enough on to be higher than the surrounding metal and then shoot a coat of sand and fill over it. Let it sit for 4 - 6 months and then block it out. I know, sounds crazy.
Dave
70isfine Nov 13th, 01, 7:06 PM SS dave,I think your shrinking problem is your primer,not the All-Metal.Fill and sand is a laquer based prim.That shrinks BIG TIME!Thas why everyone is using the newer 2K urethane primers,they dont shrink as much
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