Eventually I'd like to get around to POR-ing my frame after it's sandblasted, first with silver and then ChassisCoat black. My frame is pitted and flaky in some spots, and I think sandblasting will smooth out the flaking and pitting some. Did any of you have a frame like mine?

Another idea I had was to use POR epoxy on the pitted spots that're worse than the others.

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1970 Chevy El Camino (Custom) Non-SS
Green Mist & Silver w/Green Vinyl Top
350ci/300HP 4bbl & Factory Dual Exhaust
TH-350 - 2.73 Posi Rear
Factory PS, PB, PW, A/C
Originally Burlington, NC Car - Sold at Carpenter's Chevrolet in Durham, NC
My El Camino Home Page - www.dreamelectric.com (http://www.dreamelectric.com)

"Oh my stars! There's that black car again! Everybody get in the house, now!"

I just finished my frame this past weekend. My frame was in the same condition as yours and I did just what you want to do to yours. The hardest problem I had was getting the por15 inside the box sections of the frame. I solved this problem by buying a undercoating wand from Eastwood and spraying thru all the holes located in the frame. I'm happy to say that I'm very pleased with the final results. Good luck on your frame.

Did the same as Chev73SS with good results.
Buy the wand from Eastwood! Get some Lacquer thinner to clean it out when you are done.
Good luck!
John

I used those little foam rollers to put on a couple of black POR-15 coats and a couple of coats of their topcoat. It turned out beautiful. I suggest you go to the supension thread and do a search with my name for details on using the roller method.

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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28

My frame was pretty rusted, but not pitted. I wire brushed and clean everything real good, then used metal ready and POR 15. I was a little worried since I didnt blast the frame, but Tech Service at POR said that I'd be fine. POR 15 actually likes rust better than bare metal. Its been over a year since I did it, and it still looks great!!

My frame was pitted in some areas like yours. After sand blasting I POR'd it and used one of those little Preval aerosol sprayers to get in the frame rails. The POR stays wet when air-born for quite a while so it floated well into the rails and stuck. I didn't use fillers on the pits, but would have if I wanted to spend even more time on the frame. It looks great even though the surface of the steel is a little bumpy.

I'm happy to hear that it worked out good on pitted metal. I guess like anything, it's in the prep work. DO the results differ between brushing it on and spraying it? I've heard that even when brushing the stuff it comes out smooth but I was wondering if there isa ny noticable difference. I saw an Impala once where the whole engine compartment was done in that and it looked bad (brush marks).

Zero brush marks on everything I've done in POR. I have pics on my website that shows before/after of the frame. I also just painted some control arms last night, and it looked as good as powder coating. I'm a strong believer in doing the steps that Restomotive recommends, like marine clean and metal ready.

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JeffK ACES #01510
Team Chevelle Gold #72
496 EFI/Richmond 6-Speed
JeffK@chevelles.com
Jeff's Chevelle Page (http://www.72chevelle.com)

I started out using a brush and it is very slow and it did leave brush marks. Go read my posts on the foam rollers! Very fast and no brush marks. The foam rollers are by far the better way to go. Cheap too so go prove it to yourself.

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Redrum (or Mike)
68 Corvette - 383 CI 427 HP
69 SS Chevelle being updated to Pro-Touring
97 Z-28