ive got about 5 or 6 pin holes in the bottom front interior side of the door. i tried to hit it quickly with my mig welder and it just blows through. the brace that runs behind the door dosent allow acsess to the location. ideas on a good way to fix this? thanks Dave

Originally posted by sheetmetal:
ive got about 5 or 6 pin holes in the bottom front interior side of the door. i tried to hit it quickly with my mig welder and it just blows through. the brace that runs behind the door dosent allow acsess to the location. ideas on a good way to fix this? thanks Dave Most here may disagree, but I carefully dimpled the area around the pinholes on mine and put a layer of bondo over same. I sanded it last night and holes are covered/filled and ready for primer. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Dave,
It sounds like the metal is thin (maybe from rust ?). If it's so thin and you blow through it with a welder (providing it's on a low enough setting) then the only way to really fix it is cut out the thinned area and weld in a new patch panel.
I had a similiar problem on some fenders I was working on. I thought they were solid but after I got them back from having them dipped I had some pin holes.
With them stripped, I took my cutoff wheel and cut out the thin area. I cut out an area a little larger than what was needed as this spot was rusted from the inside out and I wanted to make a good patch. After I had the hole cut out I trimmed down a piece of new steel the same thickness and after fitting it I took my wire feed welder and welded it in fully.
After I ground down the welds I put POR-15 products on the backside to prevent it from happening again.
If you take your time fitting the patch and are careful welding it up you can make it pretty much invisible from the front and backside.
Jim/Saint Louis

Jim is right, definitely the best/proper way to repair this, especially for a restoration. I'm building a bracket racer, so not worried about perfection graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Originally posted by Texas70:
Jim is right, definitely the best/proper way to repair this, especially for a restoration. I'm building a bracket racer, so not worried about perfection graemlins/thumbsup.gif Funny thing was I found out about the dipping company from a racer :D
He used the company to thin out and get rid of weight in his doors, fender and trunk lid.

Originally posted by Texas70:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by sheetmetal:
Most here may disagree, but I carefully dimpled the area around the pinholes on mine and put a layer of bondo over same. I sanded it last night and holes are covered/filled and ready for primer. graemlins/thumbsup.gif </font>[/QUOTE]

Originally posted by 70isfine:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Texas70:
Most here may disagree, but I carefully dimpled the area around the pinholes on mine and put a layer of bondo over same. I sanded it last night and holes are covered/filled and ready for primer. graemlins/thumbsup.gif </font>[/QUOTE][/QB][/QUOTE]
This method pretty much garantees rust bubbles in six months after its painted,maybe less.BTDT! Doors rust from the inside out,look down inside the door,if its rusty in one contained area you could cut it out and weld a patch in.If the whole bottom is rusty, i would put a skin on it. I had the same problem,i'd put a patch in, a few months later it would pop somewhere else. I patched it in three different areas,then said hell with it and put a skin on it.

Originally posted by Texas70:
Most here may disagree, but I carefully dimpled the area around the pinholes on mine and put a layer of bondo over same. I sanded it last night and holes are covered/filled and ready for primer. graemlins/thumbsup.gif [/QB][/QUOTE]
This method pretty much garantees rust bubbles in six months after its painted,maybe less.BTDT! Doors rust from the inside out,look down inside the door,if its rusty in one contained area you could cut it out and weld a patch in.If the whole bottom is rusty, i would put a skin on it. I had the same problem,i'd put a patch in, a few months later it would pop somewhere else. I patched it in three different areas,then said hell with it and put a skin on it. [/QB][/QUOTE]

This method pretty much garantees rust bubbles in six months after its painted,maybe less.BTDT! Doors rust from the inside out,look down inside the door,if its rusty in one contained area you could cut it out and weld a patch in.If the whole bottom is rusty, i would put a skin on it. I had the same problem,i'd put a patch in, a few months later it would pop somewhere else. I patched it in three different areas,then said hell with it and put a skin on it.

I agree totally, but I plan on having the pros at a local body shop get this body perfect a few years from now, but at this point I am just looking for a clean (cheap) paint job to get me by until that time comes. In the meantime I am taking care of drivetrain, suspension and interior.
For now I will get the car on the road and racing and save up the $4000+ (whatever) for the body over a few years time. ;)