Does anyone know how to stop a leak from the countershaft hole on the face of an M-22 casing. It presently has some sort of resin that has aged and cracked.

blue silicone is normally used as a quick fix for a loose countershaft...the case usually needs to be bushed to be a correct repair. ...the latter requires dissasembly

We usually advise customers to silicone the countershaft area before they would mount the transmission to the bellhousing. Then let that cure for 24 hours before adding gear lube. In most cases, you get a leak proof seal for years to come.

Regards, Jody

The real fix is to repair or replace the case. Seen lots of strange repairs, recently bondo on the case to try and stop the leak.

I had one with a series of holes punched in the face of the case around the pin, one with a expansion plug, guess what they all still leaked.

I agree with Wally, fix the case with a bushing or replace it. The countershaft is supposed to be an interference fit. Do not rely on silicone, glue, loctite, or any bonding agent to repair a loose fitting countershaft. It will always leak.

Regards, Jody

while not the best solution you can try ***** punching it,rather than spend alot of money and time removing the trans .... oops my word got edited ! i meant starts with a
"P", rhymes with "Rick"

Anyone know a reliable rebuid company near north Florida?

If you are talking about the case, I don't know of one in FL, several good places for pin repair in this area.

You need to weigh the cost of a repair or a new case. A super case is a much better solution, $225 for one of theose. A repair on your case plus the down time will run in the $200 range and be down for several weeks, maybe more. The only cases I would do this to are numbers cars and then maybe not. I would keep the numbers case and just put a super case in the car for driving, but that's just me.

Like they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I've seen the following work.

Drive the tapered countershaft towards the front of the case until it is tight in the tapered hole at the front of the case. If the countershaft hole is slightly enlarged, the shaft will project about 1/16 or 1/8 inch by the time it becomes firmly lodged. Complete assembly of the transmission as usual. Then take a die grinder with a small bit and carefully grind off the projecting part of the shaft so as not to damage the case. If you want, add a dab of silicone before installing the transmission to the bell housing.

The shaft is tight, doesn't leak, and you still have the original case. It may not be the "right" way to do this, but it seems to work.

If you knock the countershaft 1/16" to 1/8" towards the front what would keep the countershaft from rotating after about 10,000 miles? The centerplate is designed to keep the countershaft from rotating by locking the halfmoon section to it. The countershaft would also have too much endplay and it could move rearward causing a greater leak. I have seen centerplates where the countershaft has spun in the case and it is not pretty.

Get your case repaired or buy a new one from Wally.

Regards, Jody

Ill buy you a 225.00 "supercase"
if you give me the old damaged case

I used a new Super case in my 67 Camaro & a new iron mid plate along with a ton of other new parts in my M-20. The new super case is leak free & the best money I spent on during my rebuild. I have a friend that has several used muncie cases that leak, what #'s are you looking for in a muncie case Ls6convertible? his e-mail is johnt28@bellsouth.net

Jody,

I agree that replacement or repair of the case is the best option. If I was paying someone to do the work, I probably would want the job done right. On the other hand, if the cost of labor is not an issue, trying other solutions may not hurt.

The risk of the countershaft spinning should not be great, since the notched end of the shaft still projects through the rear of the case and is held from turning by the mid plate. The greatest risk is that the shaft will move backwards, causing a leak. But that can happen with any shaft, since the mid plate often does not push the shaft firmly forward. A carefully placed dab of silicone on the notched part of the shaft at the time of assembly might exert a little pressure there and help hold it in place.

I'm still curious to see how long the type of repair that I described will last.

Like they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I've seen the following work.

Drive the tapered countershaft towards the front of the case until it is tight in the tapered hole at the front of the case. If the countershaft hole is slightly enlarged, the shaft will project about 1/16 or 1/8 inch by the time it becomes firmly lodged. Complete assembly of the transmission as usual. Then take a die grinder with a small bit and carefully grind off the projecting part of the shaft so as not to damage the case. If you want, add a dab of silicone before installing the transmission to the bell housing.

The shaft is tight, doesn't leak, and you still have the original case. It may not be the "right" way to do this, but it seems to work.

Pin is not tapered, the hole in the front of the case is smaller than the rear, several thou. Driving the pin deeper is not the way to go.

Many Thanks,

I will get a new case and have the number match case re bushed.