Denny, I have a question about the front end on my '65. I have installed QA1 coil overs, '69 front disc brake spindles with a 2 inch upper ball joint spacer (I know, you prefer the tall ball joint solution instead) and poly bushings in otherwise stock control arms.

I know raising the ball joint end of the upper control arm does good things for the suspension geometry, but my question concerns getting a good alignment on the front. With a tired old frame and stock suspension, it is sometime necessary to take out all the shims to even approach decent settings and you sometimes still don't get enough adjustment in the set up. With upper ball joints being higher than stock, doesn't that move the upper pivot point toward the center line of the car slightly? In essence, have I complicated the frame sag issue and created a situation where it will be even harder (if not impossible) to get things adjusted? (Or do I have it backward and I'll have MORE adjustment available to me?) I have had the frame straightened and we checked for frame sag and took a touch of it out but still...

At this point I only have a rolling frame, so if there is anything I can do now to cure the problem, now is the time to do it. For cost reasons, I'd prefer to stick with the stock control arms, so if I need any help, would an offset cross shaft be of any use? Is it even necessary.

TIA.

You could run the offset shafts just in case. I don't think you will need them but it doesn't hurt anything to have them, you can always just turn them around if need be. You are correct that the taller spindles/ball joints move the pivot up (to where it is supposed to be).

When installed as intended to combat frame sag, do offset shafts move the control arm closer to the engine or further to the outside? I would think to the outside.

Depends on which direction they installed. They can be used to aid in pulling more positive or negative camber. It will be fairly obvious when go to install them in the car what type of gain to expect, simply rotate them around if you need to go the other way. Do you want negative camber or zero? How thick is your current shim pack? Are you doing any lowering work at all?

I will probably lower it some with the coil overs. Before I tore it all apart is had some thick shim packs at the back if I remember correctly. But I've had the frame worked on since and it's just a rolling frame at the moment so I've no idea exactly where I'll end up. It'll have a big block and I bought the appropriate coil overs for that purpose.

If only the rear packs were thick than you are OK, that is for caster adjustment (they were looking to gain some positive caster). As you lower the chassis the alignment will naturally go negative. If want to keep camber neutral than go ahead and run the shafts with the step toward the engine to pull it back out. If you want a little negative camber (1* or so for a street car) which I highly recommend run them the other way.

Last dumb question. Is negative camber where the top of the wheel is leaning toward the engine or to the outside?

Negative is when the tire leans in towards the engine...think early VW bug after the kids get done lowering them.