Anyone have a lift at home? I'm using a bendpak 2 post lift on my '67 convertible. Front pads I place at the front part of the frame right before it turns in near the wheels. Rear pads I've been putting where the rear control arm (traction bar?) meets the frame. When I left the car I see a gap form at the top of the door indicating that I'm basically lifting the middle too much and the rear is flixing down.

Where are you guys lifting from?

Your lift points should be spread on the frame as far as possible, depending on the length of arms. You want the lift base wide, so that the car is more stable on the lift. If your getting flex in the body while lifting the frame, something is not right. You should be able to lift either end of the car and not get flex of the frame.

I just realized that you have bought this car recently. Just to confirm, it is a boxed frame, correct?

My 66 is the same way, and it has the correct, original frame. I have always wondered if there was a way to "stiffen" the frame, to reduce the body flex.

It seems to me, no matter where I put a jack or jack stands, it flexes the body, sometimes to the point the doors won't open.

Is this common to all chevelle convertibles, or is the frame getting weak? What can be done about it?

This is common to all convertibles. There is no "correct" way to lift them on a hoist, unless you use a drive-on hoist.

On modern cars when you open the doors while hoisted the whole body tacos and the doors won’t close.

Try using the seal belt attachment holes with a engine lift. Fenders, doors, hood and trunk are remove. I know it worked on a 70 Chevelle two door hardtop without any problems.

Ted, Yes, just got it a week or so ago, and definitely a boxed frame that is in very good shape. Previous owner sandblasted and painted it so you can see every detail.

I have the two lift points as far forward and aft as I think I can go, they definitely go past the doors on each side. The next point further rear I think would be the axel housing, but I don't think my lift arms would reach, and I wouldn't be too comfortable underneath with the round housing on the flat pad.

The amount of gap I see is about 1/4" - 3/8" over the stock door gap. I only see it in at the rear of the door at the top. The front gap stays straight, so I'm pretty sure its just the rear of the car sagging down. I'll try to take some photos this weekend. I just don't want to be doing something that will ruin the car...

Also - I do make sure to keep both doors shut while hoisting....

Thanks to all...

Welcome to the world of convertibles. The flex is normal and yes, you are lifting at the proper points.

Keeping the doors closed is a good idea, but when doing work that requires the car to be lifted off the ground with a lift/hoist/jack AND the door to be open...you should open door prior to lifting.

Do not open and shut doors while the car is lifted, they will mis-align and you may damage something BTDT.

... and you may damage something BTDT.

Being from NY, I'll bet this applies to more than your Chevelle. :p

Thanks Rob! I feel much better now!

No way around convertible body flex when using the type of lift you refer to. No problem when using it to work on the car, but I would not store the car on a lift for an extended time.

that is normal for a vert

it is much better off if you use a drive on lift

and try to leave the doors closed when lifting - much better to put top down so you can reach in easier

if you have ever noticed when driving a vert it feels like you are on a springboard too from all the flex