70_chevelle
Nov 17th, 01, 1:46 PM
Can you use all metal to fill the seam on the sail panel and have it hold? Or should I just lead it and forget it?
I just got some all metal and used it to finish up the lead seams I have on the quarters and I really like it. It's easy to sand and looks good!
BTW, the paint shop said that I can use the self etching primer over the all metal filler, is this true?
Thanks,
Lee
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1970 ZZ502 Chevelle (http://www.1970chevelle.net)
1967 ZZ502 Camaro 12.04@115 (http://www.1967camaro.net)
1997 Yukon 4x4 13.7@98 (http://www.blown4x4.com)
sevt_chevelle
Nov 17th, 01, 4:16 PM
All metal the seam. But if you want lead up some of the seam not all of it with the lead. Lead in my eyes is a much more stable filler material then body filler. Get the lead close then finish off with the all metal. One thing to remember then working with lead you DO NOT want to apply any etching primer on the lead. The lead will soak it in and later down the road slowly allow it to bleed through the paint. Appling an etching primer over body filler is fine as along as its kept too a minimum.
70_chevelle, I saw the seam on your quarters that you are using lead on. My question is why not just use regular body filler like Rage or All Metal on those seams? I believe that lead is a better filler then bondo, but there are places where bondo out weighs lead. Like dings and dents and the seam on your quarter. The only place I would now use lead on is the sail panels and a few other spots. Using lead can be a mess and can really go wrong if you dont know how to use right. A quality filler like Rage or All Metal is nothing to be afraid of. And when used right and in the manner of what it is intended it will last the life of the car.
[This message has been edited by sevt_chevelle (edited 11-17-2001).]
70_chevelle
Nov 17th, 01, 5:21 PM
svt_chevelle - Thanks for the reply.
I'm using lead on the seams because I felt that it was going to be a stress area since it's so long, my thoughts were lead was not going to crack if leaned on and since I'm going to be drag racing it there might be some body flex.
The lead process was actually quite easy. I asked the paint shop about the etching primer on the lead and he said there was no problem, he even called a guy that said the same. None the less, I will use all metal over the lead and the paint shop indicated that using etching primer over all metal filler is fine.
One question: Do I use the self etching primer on the new fenders that are coated with the black primer?
Thanks,
Lee
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1970 ZZ502 Chevelle (http://www.1970chevelle.net)
1967 ZZ502 Camaro 12.04@115 (http://www.1967camaro.net)
1997 Yukon 4x4 13.7@98 (http://www.blown4x4.com)
sevt_chevelle
Nov 17th, 01, 5:58 PM
Lee, normally at the shop we just DA the black primer with 400 grit and apply the 2K primer. But on my stuff what I do is DA the item with 320 or 400, clean off with a wax and grease remover til the rag is clean and spotless and apply one very light coat. I dont apply a full coat like you would on bare metal, but do this to protect any bare spots. Some feel this step is not necessary but I havent had any problems and either has the shop I work for so go for it...Eric
70isfine
Nov 18th, 01, 7:15 AM
Has anybody had a problem with bubbling when putting plastic over lead?I thought that was a no-no.I did it on my roof sails about five years ago,and its bubbled up.I was told the best thing is to melt the lead out,weld the seam up and fill with it with all-metal.