I am rebuilding a 700r4 to replace the one I am running now that is getting a bit weak after 50,000 miles on it. Now to decide on the converter. I am looking at the B&M Holeshot 2000. Good price, good word of mouth and it is available at Jegs where I have a $200 gift certificate.

My question is, what speed will this converter actually stall at with a 454 putting out around 450~500hp?

Yes, I hear everyone out there screaming about the 2400 instead. I am tempted, but this is a total daily driver that I put over 15,000 miles per year on. Currently I am running a stock, high stall lockup that has not given me any problem, so either I am really lucky or I am easy on parts like I think I am.
What I don't want is something that flashes to 3000 before it begins to pull. I have plenty of torque and don't care to have to rev the motor just to putter from light to light.
Other suggestions are welcome, but am really curious just what the difference is between a B&M converter and a Summit or Jegs with the same specs.

Any and all guidance is appreciated. For all who think I am a moron for asking such a simple question, please be advised ahead of time that I am fully aware I am an idiot and need not further comfirmation.

i have the b&m holeshot, with anti-ballon plates 2400 in my 55 chevy prostreet.and it acts like a stock converter. it pulls me at red lights where i have to put it in neutrel all the time, or hold the brake and play with the gas pedal to keep it from stalling out. my engine is a 396. i am going to pull that wimpy 2400 out and put a b&m holeshot 3000 in there. this is just my situation.lance p.s. as far as stall i dont have any with this 2400.

In have the B&M 2400 holeshot..it flashes to 2800
You never know its there until you go to WOT and it just pulls hard.
works pretty well IMHO and experience.
Trans is a TH400

I have a holeshoot 2000 with a mild smallblock and I like it. If I take off hard I just boil the tires so I do not think that any more stall would be useful. If I understand corectly a converter will stall at different speeds with different engines, the more torque you have the highter the stall speed. Usually you use the cam spec to help make converter decisions. B&M has a tec line to help out I called them they were helpful. BTW a friend of mine had a 3000 and just removed it for a 2400 he did not like the "slipping" feel on light take-off.

OK, so if your 2400 flashes at about 2800 with the big block the extra 400 is kinda what I would have guessed. I am still open to the idea of the 2400, and no one on the boards seems to have anything bad to say about them.
I would guess the 2000 would flash about 2400, which would be pretty good fit for me.
I do a lot of back road driving, and I like the feel of the car pulling instantly with the current convertor. Does the 2400 flash up before it begins to pull? How sloppy does it feel around 2000~2500?
I really appreciate everyone's imput. I can research a lot of stuff and get hard fast numbers, but like everyone knows, torque converters are subjective and I think the more comments and opinions that are available the better...

I do a lot of back road driving, and I like the feel of the car pulling instantly with the current convertor. Does the 2400 flash up before it begins to pull? How sloppy does it feel around 2000~2500?

it pulls instantly and there is no slop or slip.

I'm happy with it for what it is.
My car really needs a tight 3200-3400 flash,but I choose to leave it alone,as its not a race car.

My friends 3000 had the "slipping feel" at off idle light throttle at 2000 it took off. If you go to the higher stall speed I would strongly recomond a BIG tranny cooler, the higher the stall speed the greater the heat. Heat kills trannies. IMO I think you would be happy with a stall speed between 2000 and 2400. If you go to the track and use slicks the higer stall will help alot but if not I do not see the benefit.

BTW, Buy a quality name brand unit, the price is not much more.

My current converter was rated at around 2000rpm flash and it flashes at around 2500 with this motor, so I think it should be fair to say that the Holeshot 2000 should flash about 2500 also.
Is there a reason that torque converters are not horsepower or torque rated? I know there are a ton of variables, but the torque convertor seems to be such a black art...
This car has been in the family since it was new. My grandmothers car. It is interesting that the first time I ever drove it on the dirt backroads of Georgia at 13 the main thing that stuck in my mind was how damn hard it was to hold it still with the drum brakes and no power boost. Stock was a way too tight tight torque converter and it makes you wonder why they ever made them that way.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks to everyone so far for the info...

I have not had goo luck with the HS 2000 recently in a car I juyst finished for a buddy but that was in a pontiac firebird. For what it is worth.

I've seen some B&M advertisements that say "do not use behind a big block" can't remember which of their converters it was. I've had good luck with B&M converters, kinda wish i would have kept my old one for my son, but he found a pretty nice,used Neal Chance converter to use in his Olds behind my old motor.

Yea, I have seen that "not behind big block" on some of the converters. I know they make a ton of torque, but so can a strong small block. I wonder if big block torque is just "special"...
Well, these comments really help.
Anyone know how much hp/torque is "too" much for the Holeshot series? I see the nitro holeshot has anti balloon plates, but once again there does not seem to be any cut off for what power levels to switch to it..
More black magic it would seem...
But so far no real reasons not to go with the B&M holeshot, either the 2000 or the 2400 right?
Thanks

HP has really nothing to do with stall speed..its the torque that matters-period.
The B&M Torkmaster convertors are meant for mild torque applications.I would avoid those at all possible if you're running a big block :)