I have to put in a new top motor for my 67 SS, my question is, "do I need to bleed the top cylinders when I do this, and where do you bleed them at." Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Doug

The bleeding is done at the top motor. I just replaced the top cylinders in my 66. I purchased the filling/bleeding tool from Convertible Service. <www.convertibleparts.com> It fills and bleeds the system and makes it easy. It costs about $40.00 for what is basically a 1 gallon plastic container with fittings, but it was worth it. If you do a search in one of the forums on this board I believe somebody describes how to bleed the system.

Rob S.

I should have bled mine I guess when I put my motor in. I used a turkey baster to fill my motor. Works great! $2 I'm not sure how to get all the fluid out. I have a leaky cylinder.

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my 67 droptop (http://www.mdesignstudio.com/chad/other/mychevelle2.jpg)

Interior (http://www.mdesignstudio.com/chad/other/interior.jpg)

big block (http://www.mdesignstudio.com/chad/other/motor.jpg)
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Dad's 67 droptop (http://www.mdesignstudio.com/chad/other/dads67.jpg)

I bought a bleeder kit from Hydro-Electric...

$17, and it was literally a Rubbermade (tupperware) plastic bowl and snap-on lid, and a piece of clear vinyl tubing... Drill a hole in the lid so the tubing will fit through (but snug).

Fill the container with fluid, and place it down on the trunk floor with the tube inserted and into the fluid (to the bottom?), and the other end up into the reservoir (pull the plug out first. I tubing must also fit snug in the reservoir hole, so thats the critical measurement...

Might also fill the reservoir first too (but only 2/3 full, no more...

Trust me, after bleeding, I tried to top off the reservoir, and "BOOM" I blew out the seal on the pump... No biggie, but fluid everywhere...

Anyway, run the pump up and down until you don't hear much "free-wheeling" of the pump motor... If you only replaced the pump/motor, you might not need to bleed too much...

I probably ran mine up and down 20-30 times (and I let the pump cool after every couple of times...)...

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"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
The Chevelle (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/1966_L78/ChevelleA.jpg)
Dual Quad 396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/1966_L78/ChevelleC.jpg)
Side View (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/1966_L78/ChevelleD.jpg)

Thanks Tony, I printed that out and hope (really hope) to use it some day when I finelly get my car painted. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

dito to what Tony said about filling the pump by pouring the oil in and then putting the plug in. It blows out the seal. Fill it whatever way you want and run it through a few full cycles BEFORE putting the plug in.

I personally undid mine and kind of stood it on end to fill it.

Peter

If you unhook the cylinders at the 'big chrome' bolt, its easier on everything and the top doesn't go up and down a million times.

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Dave Bradley
www.corvetteforum.net/classics/d1_bradley (http://www.corvetteforum.net/classics/d1_bradley)
'69 SS396 ragtop
'33 3W Coupe
'65 Vette BB Roadster