Has anyone changed a fuel pump on a 93 Camaro? My dads just went out and I was trying to figure out if it was something I could fix for him. I'm pretty good at most things but it is an LT1 and the engine is crammed in their so I don't know if it is feasible for an at-home mechanic to try.
Any thoughts?
thanks

HAHA feasable for you to drop the gas tank..... Not in the engine compt.

Yup, pump is deffinetly in the tank and not under the hood. Which on those cars is probably a good thing.

Friend of mine had one and he cut a hole in the trunk floor using measurements he found on line and did not have to drop the tank.

LK

I wouldn't cut the floor, it's not worth doing. I've done it both ways and dropping the tank is the best way, but takes some time. If you cut the floor, you have to cut the fuel sender lines, then get some hose on them and hope they don't start leaking. Then you have to replace the metal you cut out, can't use screws, they will puncture the tank, etc. Then you'll have to seal the hole to keep exhaust out. Gotta use high pressure fuel line too. Then you'll be driving around knowing you hacked a hole in the hatch floor.

You can do it in a few hours the right way, it really isn't that hard. Drop the rear out of the way, then the tank. You'll have one plug and a few lines to unhook. I've done it in 4 hours, taking my time, and doing it in the yard. Just get the tank as empty as possible.

If it's anything like my wifes '96 Z28, the manual states; drop exhaust, remove rearend, remove tank.
I said f!ck that, I carefully analyzed the size and location necessary to access through the floor/trunk/hatch area, then cut away (speedy cut/angle grinder). If you loosen the straps to allow tank to drop as far as possible, you can reach on top of the tank and feel the configuration for cut out. You will not need to cut any lines, if I remember correctly, you will need the quick disconnect tool or be proficient in improvising the removal of quick disconnects (once you have succesfully figured one out, there not as hard, but learning in a blind, confined area...buy the $5 tool at Pep, etc...). Upon replacing the unit (a very overpriced assy referred to as a module), I took a piece of thick sheet metal (a nearby real estate, for sale sign) and cut to size, allowing 1/2"+ overlap. It's best to make your original cut avoiding areas with complex contours if possible, keep it as simple and flat as possible. Drill perimeter holes through both cover and body, seal overlap area with weatherstripping adhesive (3M tube) and "pop rivet" it in place. Secure gas tank and drive.
Shouldn't take 2 hours, the most time consuming stage for me, locating a piece of adequate sheet metal at 1am ( I had anticipated using the piece that I had cut out originally)