Can anyone recommend a product for re-caulking the drip rail channels? Any tips or advice on application?

Thanks.

I used 3-M Automotive Joint and Seam sealer on mine. It comes in tubes that can be applied with a standard caulking gun. It seems to be holding up well.

When you get ready for the sealer, apply masking tape along the border of where you want to have the sealer. Apply the sealer and tool it with your finger, then remove the tape and finger it one more time. You should end up with a nice looking seam with this method. If the sealer tacks up faster than you can tool it, wet it with a little bit of wax and grease remover and that will slow it down, the wax and grease remover will evaporate. The two component seamsealers available today outperform the older types by leaps and bounds, flowable/self leveling seam sealer works excellent for drip rails but requires that you make some dams on the channel or the stuff flows right off. I've used the flowable stuff with great results but it requires a three step application on curved drip rails like those on a Chevelle. 3M's Ultrapro URETHANE seam sealer is the best single component ready to use seam sealer available, IMO. Bob

baddbob71

Is the 3M Ultrapro URETHANE what you normally use and are there any downs to using the ready to use vs the two part stuff. Also when does the seam sealer go on before or after primer?

I replaced the panel between my trunk and rear window on my 65 imp, what kind of sealer for the two seam and when to apply, my car is bare metal now ready for primer?

Thanks Chris

The toothpaste tube type economically priced sealers tend to shrink and crack with age. Same goes for the brushable type in a can. A lot of people also don't realize that the seamsealer must be applied over primer as well. The urethane ultrapro has never let me down, it does shrink about 10-20% but is done shrinking after 24hrs. The two component types are all done in 1-2hrs. Both remain completely flexible. The cheap type I've seen actually harden up with age. Take a look at these old cars and the original sealers used most have shrunk and cracked allowing moisture to creep under compromising the seal. If you want a really bad example of a product gone bad take a look at a Mopar made in the late 60's and early 70's, the sealer used on those models can be blamed for why those cars rotted away, the factory applied sealer was put over bare metal. The urethane ultrapro runs about $12 per tube and is the best I've seen available in a ready to use one component type. I've even installed doorskins with this stuff, the adhesion properties are excellent. When using for a doorskin adhesive the parts are primed first, apply a bead of the sealer, fold the flange around the door, and weld the front edge and rear edge only. Apply another bead of sealer to the inside of the door and outside on the seam taking care to keep the drain holes open. The stuff works great, I've seen no failures in 14years. Using this seamsealer as an installation adhesive for doorskins is not a recomended proceedure by the manufacturer, but I can tell you it works excellent. The problem with regular doorskin adhesives is that with time the bond is sometimes compromised from slamming the door, vibration, improper door adjustment techniques, etc. The panel adhesive does not flex, it cracks. The urethane sealer will flex and does not crack. Glueing two pieces of metal together with the stuff has shown me the adhesion qualities are excellent. Boy, can I ever get off subject! Bob

Bob, 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant (Tan) PN 08301 in a blue box, is this the right stuff? How many tubes do you think it would take to do a Chevelle?

Thanks!

Make sure it's the urethane stuff, I know they also have another version that isn't as good. The colors I use are grey and white. I'll try and find a link for the stuff.

Here ya go, "]http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/automotive_aftermarket/node_GSC5NRW78Tbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSLPLPKL4Xge/gvel_6DTWTJQPBBgl/command_AbcPageHandler/the me_us_aad_3_0] ( [url="http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/auto_marine_aero/automotive_aftermarket/node_GSC5NRW78Tbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_GSLPLPKL4Xge/gvel_6DTWTJQPBBgl/command_AbcPageHandler/theme_us_aad_3_0) [/URL]

If you're doin the whole car, firewall, floors, rockers, wheel houses etc. I would think 4-5 tubes would be enough. If just the exterior then 2. This is designed for use in a special applicator gun available for about $40, some people just cut the sausage and squeeze it out by hand, but the ability to lay abead is much nicer. Bob

The stuff I was talking about isn't the urethane stuff, I'm going to get some of the stuff you are talking about. All as I need to do yet is exterior, so I'll count on getting two tubes. Thanks for all the help and advice!