View Full Version : M.A.D. electrical new system


helimike77
Jul 6th, 05, 12:37 PM
Has anyone installed this new system? I'm thinking about installing it in a 65.

Thanks,
Mike

NoDakSS
Jul 6th, 05, 1:01 PM
Yes, I have on my '69 SS. It was easy but somewhat time consuming when installed "the right way". I HIGHLY recommend this product, it has quality parts and Mark (M.A.D.'s owner) is VERY helpful and friendly. I did mine prior to a Charging System upgrade to a 12SI 94 Amp alternator. Any questions, call him and he'll answer ANY question/problem you may have. Customer Service is #1 without a doubt! Any questions, post back or E-mail me...blet671@mlgc.com

helimike77
Jul 6th, 05, 3:06 PM
Thanks for the reply. I actually called him about ordering some relays and he recommended the new setup. Just didnt want to get into too much since I just replaced the dash and engine harness with new untis from M&H.

NoDakSS
Jul 6th, 05, 4:27 PM
Since you've already got new wires, the M.A.D. install would be an easy task. It would compliment your new harnesses if you're ever going to increase your alternator's output. My wiring was alright, so I opted to add the M.A.D. New System since the only hacks were IN my charging system.

I started the install at the Starter/Remote Solenoid and worked my way around the firewall up to the Core support/Voltage Regulator, removed unused factory "dead" wires while going. While I did this, I also added the wires/relays for a future dual electric cooling fan set-up. I also did the headlight relay install, finishing up by wrapping up the harnesses with electrical tape instead of plastic harness conduit.

Since I haven't done a harness R&R, I'm not sure what factory harnesses you'd be modifying. I know most splicing is done along the Forward Lamp harness between the firewall bulkhead connector and Voltage Regulator; maybe different for a '65? And you'd be "extending" the Starter wires by removing them from the starter and routing them forward along the right side fender to the solenoid/battery. On my '69, the instructions/schematics/diagrams were very easy to understand. If you've got a wiring diagram/book for your car, it'll be even easier. Take care when mounting the new relays/solenoids to prevent water from running down on them during washing. Also, you'll need new battery cables since you'll be relocating the starter solenoid. One short cable from BAT+ to Solenoid and one from the Solenoid to Starter.

The hardest part was remembering to place the heat shrink tubing over the wire splices/soldered connections BEFORE crimping the wires together...DOH!

Peter F.
Jul 6th, 05, 11:03 PM
I'm not sure what you're trying to accomplish but if you've got all new wiring that fits correctly and you're not going to be adding big current draw accessories then I don't see the need. If you're adding a high current alternator and electric fans then it's a good idea since the new wiring he recommends allows the bigger alternator and fans to work with everything protected correctly.

Peter

^^ I should add this applies to the upgraded charging system circuitry because I believe that's what you're talking about.

NoDakSS
Jul 7th, 05, 12:10 AM
Peter...

I agree completely...there's no need if his charging system is stock. I took for granted (ASS-umed) that since he was adding relays, he was adding current too...guess I should've asked before "pushing" the upgrade...

John_Muha
Jul 7th, 05, 12:16 AM
Again he writes well written articles. Too bad all of them end up with buying something.

helimike77
Jul 7th, 05, 11:28 PM
I actually should have mentioned that I do have two electric fans with a relay for each. The actual reason for even calling Mark(M.A.D) was to figure out the best way to add a couple junction boxes connected directly to the battery. Instead ofhaving to run individual wires for an MSD ignition. electric choke, fans, etc. My only hesitation was as you guys mentioned, I have a brand new harness which fits perfectly (actually the forward lamp harness is the only one I havent replaced, but plan to)

Thanks,
Mike

undee70ss
Jul 8th, 05, 6:34 AM
You don't have to cut up your new harness. Simply replace the original junction block on the rad support with one of his or the Painless Wiring's junction block. Use this as your main buss bar. Wire all of your add ons from here. Make sure to use fusible links or fuses to your add ons and the 14g fusible link to the battery. Since you have several high draw items your charging system should be upgraded. I would convert to a internally regulated alternator and wire it to the junction block. The only wire that you won't be using in your new harness is the 10g red for the alternator.

helimike77
Jul 8th, 05, 12:46 PM
Thanks for the advice. I'm gonna give it a go. Growing anxious to be able to drive the car again :) .

Thanks,
Mike

Peter F.
Jul 8th, 05, 11:14 PM
You really need to upgrade the alternator and the charging wire from the alternator to the battery. Somewhere in the heavier charging wire from the alternator to the battery you will put a junction to power the new accessories. You can also tap power off of this junction for the origional harness in the car. So, talk to Mark about what parts you need to wire it in and go from there and he'll set you up with the wires and junction block and fusible links you need to do it right (and safely). Also look at the info about the 3-wire alternators and how he recommends to wire them.

Peter

helimike77
Jul 11th, 05, 8:32 PM
Thanks for the advice. Seems like this is the way to go. A little surprised that I didn't really see any previous posts about it.

-Mike