Huck2020
Mar 16th, 01, 7:37 AM
I was really hoping to do the prepwork myself to save money... But I don't have an air compressor. So is there any type of decent spraycan primer I can use? Or should I stay away from that?
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dreinecke Mar 16th, 01, 9:05 AM Huck, I used the standard body primer in a can available in any parts store on my last two cars. It worked well, and the body shop that painted both cars had no problems, since they blocked and reprimed the entire car prior to painting. ------------------ David Reinecke - aka - FINE 68 1968 Chevelle 300 Sport Coupe Deluxe http://www.geocities.com/jdreinecke Ozzman Mar 16th, 01, 9:43 AM One thing you may want to do is get the spray can primer sealer. I dont know how well it works but if you leave it just primer it has a tendency to absorb moisture. Jimmy P Mar 16th, 01, 9:52 AM Sorry to disagree with the above post, but I have to. It also mentions that the shop applied their own primer while blocking and sanding. Quality primer/surfacer has alot of solids in it. Up to 10 times as much as a rattle can. Solids are what 'builds' a surface to block sand and fill the low areas. The only thing rattle can primer is good for is overnight rust prevention on bare metal and homemade flame-throwers. Huck, what kind/type of paint did your painter use on your car? If you want to save money, go to a pawn shop and buy a used compressor and a paint gun. $50 will even buy a new gun good enough for primer. I will tell you where and how to buy good urethane primer if you are interested. You're not going to save money by rattle-canning your car. Trust me. ------------------ Triple Black 69 SS 396 mr 4 speed Mar 16th, 01, 3:22 PM Jimmy P always gives sound bodywork/paint advice http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif ..BUT if you have to use a rattle can,and I mean have to,at least go with Plastikote Primer/Surfacer ------------------ 1970 Chevelle SS396/M21/4.10 My 70 SS396 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70SS1) Engine pic (http://chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speed70SSengine2) 1970 Buick GS455 4 speed convertible My GS455 (http://chevelles.com/showroom/mr4speedgs45501.jpg) 1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass convertible 1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass 350 Olds,TH350(daily driver) "Be aware of the possible ramifications of the potential outcome" Chris Corwel,the man from the too much taxes and over priced gas state of Connecticut TC Member 785 68chevmal Mar 16th, 01, 8:33 PM If money is that much of an issue, do this. do all your sanding and bondoing, make sure the car is clean and the emblems and other small metal parts are taped off, and bring it to Earl Shibes. Get the metallic paint, whole job will cost about 150. It will be much nicer than what you are considering, trust me. Huck2020 Mar 16th, 01, 9:23 PM But don't I need to get it primered immediately after I sand it? Jimmy P Mar 17th, 01, 7:49 AM When you take metal to the naked state, you have to etch it for primer to adhere to it. The factory used an electrical charge system for applying thier black primer. The paint was positively charged and the body was grounded. This bonded the primer to the metal. Since body shops or hobbiest can't afford such a system, the paint industry has products to etch and prepare the bare metal surface for primer. This is done by one of two methods. Method 1. You can buy a metal etching solution in a bottle, then apply primer. Method 2 is easier, apply a self etching primer. This is a two-part system containing the primer and the activator. You apply it over clean (CLEANED!) bare metal. Once it drys, (30 minutes) you must top coat with a primer surfacer. As I said above, a quality urethane primer surfacer with high solids. This is an important step in the paint process. I equate the primer to a foundation of a house. You have one chance to get it right. You can add all of the finest materials to the outer sides, but if the foundation fails, it all has to come down. I'm just trying to put out the most correct info I can because we all want your Chevelle to look it's best! I really don't mean to disagree with anyone. But, as in skinning a cat, there more ways than one to paint a car! ------------------ Triple Black 69 SS 396 m22chevy Mar 17th, 01, 9:10 AM Huck! I assume that you are doing body prep work in small sections at a time and want to protect the bare area's as you move along. I'm currently doing that myself. Doing the work in a closed garage at my house prevents me from loading up the hvlp and spraying on the primer. The alternative was to rattle can the area's as I go, then come springtime re-block the whole car and spray on urethane primer with the hvlp. A bodyshop guy I spoke with suggested going to the local bodyshop supply and purchasing there recommended self etching primer in a rattle can. It should offer general protection from moisture if the car is indoors and should work well in adhereing to the bare metal surfaces. pmullaly Mar 17th, 01, 6:24 PM see my reply in tech 2001 ------------------ Philip Mullaly 72 TPI El Camino "Hey Ya'll watch this...." pmullaly Mar 17th, 01, 9:54 PM Dont know what happened to my other reply but it was... I'll loan you my paint gun (it's not HVLP) All I ask is that you return it, clean. ------------------ Philip Mullaly 72 TPI El Camino "Hey Ya'll watch this...." | ||