Will be building a 489/496 BBC next year and have the following questions about whether or not this cast rotating assembly will be adequate for my application:

Street engine with no more than 500HP
9.6 CR
RPM limit of 5500
very mild hydraulic cam
TH400 and 3.30 gears


Will this cast assembly handle this power level or go ahead and spend the extra money for a forged kit for extra insurance?

Thanks, Charles

i've seen an article on a david vizard engine built with a cast scat crank and he says he would have no fear of pushing 600 horsepower,but that was a smallblock.i think rpm's are what kills a crankshaft but i'm no professional builder.

I'm building the same engine right now and debated using the SCAT 9000 as well. I've heard good and bad about them. I went back and forth several months about it, but finally decided on Eagle 4340 forged crank-internally balanced and Eagle 4340 3D H-beam rods. This is my first big block and trust me when I tell you I probably talked to over 100 people (on-line, at cars shows, and several local engine builders). The main consensus is, and I agree, that forged is the crank of choice. Mine is rated for 1200 HP. My point is if you are going to do it, do it right. I made a pledge to myself to spend the money where it needed to be spent- and not buy something less in quality to get on the street faster ( not saying you are, but I know I was initially and thanks to everyone on this site for talking me out of it) I received my crank and rods the other day and man do they look good and STURDY! Build yourself a strong bottom end, and your worries are over. Especially if you ever want to increase your power levels. The Eagle rods and crank I got were about $450 more than the scat 9000 crank and I-beam rods. The difference would be even less if you are planning to use H-beam rods. And by the way, I have David Vizards book on small block chevys, and he says "You may have heard that a forged crank is the way to go. You heard correctly." "Properly prepped a cast crank is fine in a circle track motor of 400 plus horse power, and I've seen them make passes down the strip in motors making 600 hp. Altough the latter may be extreme, and a CERTAIN AMOUNT OF LUCK MAY BE INVOLVED, it does show that they are relatively stout pieces." He is talking about the cast Chevy cranks. Ask yourself the same question I did. Do you think you can fix a broken crank, cracked block, bent or broken rods, broken, valves, broken pistons etc. for the difference it will cost to upgrade to a forged crank and rods. The answer is NO WAY!!!!!!!!

Will be building a 489/496 BBC next year and have the following questions about whether or not this cast rotating assembly will be adequate for my application:

Street engine with no more than 500HP
9.6 CR
RPM limit of 5500
very mild hydraulic cam
TH400 and 3.30 gears


Will this cast assembly handle this power level or go ahead and spend the extra money for a forged kit for extra insurance?

Thanks, Charles
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Yes it will handle that RPM & power level with no problem, probably quite a bit more actually.

Yes a forged rotating assembly is stronger & would be my choice if it is within your budget as it gives you the option of getting a bit more "aggressive" later which seems to happen once you start going faster :D ,,, but certainly not necessary for your objectives.

Also, you do not need a 489 to achieve your goals,,
I just took a stock bore 454 off my dyno which is considered pretty conservative compared to some,,, that was 9.76 measured compression with a very mild flat tappet hyd cam with Brodix oval RR heads.
540+lbs ft at about 4300 & 506HP at about 5500. Over 500 lbs ft at 3100

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I just took a stock bore 454 off my dyno which is considered pretty conservative compared to some,,, that was 9.76 measured compression with a very mild flat tappet hyd cam with Brodix oval RR heads.
540+lbs ft at about 4300 & 506HP at about 5500. Over 500 lbs ft at 3100

GM cast crank? Untouched heads? Details on cam lift/dur/LSA?

I am asking because I am in the early stages of planning a mild 454 for the wife's project Nova.

Thanks Mike.

GM cast crank? Untouched heads? Details on cam lift/dur/LSA?

I am asking because I am in the early stages of planning a mild 454 for the wife's project Nova.

Thanks Mike.
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HI Cable,
Crank was forged because he had it.
Heads were out of the box with the CNC chamber, Perf RPM, 870 Street Avenger.
Cam was an Isky 396271/281, 270/280, 221/232, .542/.565, 110 LSA hyd flat tappet.

Actually the engine was a for real LS7 that I redid so the guy could drive it.
Another shop had stuck a Comp XE268 in it to "detune" it so it was more
drivable :sad: ,, the damn thing about detonated at an idle it had so much cylinder pressure,,,
Anyway, it was the LS7 block & crank with Scat I beam rods & TRW L2465's as I think he had the original rods & pistons sold.