I'll be converting from a column shift automatic to a 4 speed with a console soon, so I bought the sheetmetal hump to place over the hole I will cut.
Question; Can anyone tell me where to cut the hole and mount the hump? Is it best to wait until the trans. is in place, or are there measurements I could go by? I didn't see anything in the assembly manual.
Thanks,
Rich

yes i would like to know as well.

my buddy told me to put the shifter on (without the handel), and put the tranny in, then just mark where it needs to be cut out, and cut it out. then just go as big as you need it.


aaron

The hump for the shifter on my 70 is a bit narrow and has a boot that screws to it so you do want to get it as close to center as possible and you'll wanna check your shifter side to side movement. The shifter in neutral position will be as far right as it can go so keep that in mind when you position the hump.

I would cut a hole just big enough to get the shifter to stick up threw it in neutral and place the new hump over it for positioning. Once you find a home for the new hump then you can cut the hole out to meet it.

GOOD LUCK

Not sure what year your car is but this should still do the trick (This was my resonse to a similar question in this (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91013) thread).


Yes it will (I had a GrandPA's 70 with a 350/TH350 column and now it has an M22 floor shift with bench seats). I stayed with the bench seats because I like the look (call me weird). I'll dig up some photos.

You will need:
1. Shifter boot
2. Shifter boot retainer ring kit
3. Shift tunnel extension
4. The CORRECT shift handle. If you are getting a Hurst...make sure it's the right handle or you will have problems!!
5. A pedal conversion kit (I think NPD sells them) or a set of originals
6. Obviously the clutch and linkage (zbar, block ball, fork, etc)
7. PATIENCE
8. Remember: Measure TWICE, cut ONCE!

It is a fairly straightforward (but time consuming) project. This will most likely NOT be a one weekend project if you have never done this before.

To find where to make the cut in the transtunnel:
- Mount the new tranny with the shifter attatched (but NOT with the handle attatched .... duh :)).
- Make sure everything is torqued down and in place especially the trans support.
- You COULD use the old transmount from the TH350 but I would just buy a new one. I made the mistake of cheaping out and keeping the old one. When I installed a new one this year I found that I had to cut a bit more from the transtunnel for clearance. Just buy a new one and avoid that.
- Once you get everything torqued down, reach up with a long screwdriver and make a mark directly above the shift handle mount on the shifter (that will be your reference point for the shift tunnel extension).
- Now....remove the tranny (If you are lucky, you MAY be able to get away with just taking off the shifter).
- Remove your front seat and carpet.
- Drill a hole in the floor using your reference point.
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A WORD OF CAUTION: I 'eyeballed' the rest of my installation. I'm sure there are better ways to do this but I've never been accused of doing things the 'easy way' :). You just need to use common sense and make the smallest cuts possible. I removed VERY LITTLE sheetmetal to make this work. Theoretically you could mount the TransTunnel extension centered over your reference hole and cut the rest of the sheetmetal out. THIS GIVES YOU NO ROOM FOR ERROR or differences in the size of future mounts...etc. The best bet is to cut as little as possible until it fits. You can always make adjustments later.
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- Clear out enough metal so that the shifter handle MOUNT (not the whole shifter) will slide through.
- Re-install the shifter and handle
- Make sure that you have removed enough metal so that you can row through all of the gears without hitting the trans-tunnel. It is especailly important to make sure that you have at LEAST 1/4 inch of clearance on all sides of the shift handle and SHIFTER to allow for engine/tranny 'torque turn'.
- Take your transtunnel extension (the 'hump') and try to center it over the hole you just made. It will be apparent how the extension should sit on the tunnel but you will most likely have to make some adjustments to it. Keep in mind...the extension can look a bit rough when done but it will be 'hidden' by your carpeting and sound deadening material when finished.
- Once you find the best spot for extension...tape it down as securely as possible.
- Remove the Shifter and/or tranny
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At this point you have to make a decision as to how you want to mount your tunnel extension. You can weld it in or you can use rivets. I chose rivets because I can't weld to save my life and also because rivets are a lot easier to remove :) I used about 8-10 rivets and that extension isn't going to move anytime soon!
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- Mark your drill points on the extension with a punch
- Depending on your confidence with a drill...either drill straight through the extension and the tunnel or drill the holes in the extension first and then use that as a template to drill the holes in the tunnel. Either way works.
- MAKE SURE YOU USE THE CORRECT SIZE BIT!!! I used a medium sized rivet (can't remember the size). The box of rivets I purchased had a drill bit guide that told you what size bit to use.
- You will need to use something to seal the connection between the transtunnel and the extension. I used some silicone but that is up to you.
- Now just add rivets!

The rest is much easier and really doesn't need explaining. If you have any questions feel free to ask me (I believe I have a bunch of pictures too).

I did this without ANY prior mechanical experience (besides your light mechanical stuff like brakes, oil, belts and so forth) so you can do it too. Just take your time and ask questions if needed!

Oh Yeah....BUY A SERVICE MANUAL, FISHER BODY MANUAL, and an ASSEMBLY MANUAL!!! It will be the best $60-70 you will ever spend!

GOOD LUCK!

Thanks for the responses and especially the reference to that thread!
Rich