: Testing Voltage Regulator/Gen. Light
69velle Jun 30th, 05, 9:51 PM I just fixed my coil problem...somehow my coil was creating a bad short and I could not even turn the car over. But now my Gen. Light is staying on while the car is running.
I printed off the guidelines that John Muha seems to post whenever these questions come up, thanks John. When I measured the brown wire at the regulator I came up with ~12 volts, which is what I want. But when I unplugged the connector from the alternator and tested the blue wire, it fluctuated around 25 volts. What is that telling me? I am sure that my short has something to do with all this, but I'm not quite sure what it is.
Thanks
Mike
undee70ss Jul 1st, 05, 3:33 AM Are you using a externally or internally regulated alternator? ( car was originally externally regulated) If externally regulated follow Peters Method (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56421&page=2&pp=15&highlight=Peter)
The only way I can think that your meter is reading 25 volts on the blue wire is, the regulator turns the voltage on and off rapidly and you are getting a false reading with your meter.
When the battery voltage goes above a set level, the F terminal is disconnected from the battery power by the points I kept mentioning. Then the voltage drops and the points close again. This on-off cycling happens rapidly and is how the voltage gets regulated.
Peter
A simple test would be to check the voltage at the big lug at the back of the alternator with the car running at a fast idle. Should be at 14.2-14.5 volts.
69velle Jul 1st, 05, 9:42 PM I have an externally regulated alternator. I replaced the voltage regulator and that didn't work, then I took my alternator down and replaced that as well...it doesn't cost me anything because they offer lifetime warranty. With the car running, the post at the back of the alternator is around 1.0 Volts. But my aftermarket guage inside shows that its charging at 14 volts and the gen. light is on...I'm pretty confused now.
Thanks
Mike
69velle Jul 1st, 05, 10:03 PM Nevermind the last post....I found that the orange wire that connects from one of the red main feed wires to the voltage regulator connector was old and had broke. How do I go about fixing this. How do I attach a new "fusible" link to the connector? Should I just give up and go buy a new, internally regulated one? If so, which one?
Thanks
Finally Jul 1st, 05, 10:14 PM Forget the gauge inside for now. Use your meter and check at the alt. You said 1.0 volts at the main lug, output, of the alt correct? Did you jumper the blue wire to the main post with the car running to see what the alt will put out? As far as the 25v out of the reg it's impossible. Not saying that's not what the meter said but it's wrong. Are you sure your meter set on DC not AC. That could explain the 25v on the blue wire and the 1.0v on the back of the alt.
undee70ss Jul 2nd, 05, 7:10 AM What does your aftermarket gauge show with the car not running? The main lug, output, of the alt show show at least battery voltage. The orange wire needs a 14g fusible link. If you want to convert to a internal regulated alternator go here (http://www.chevelles.com/techref/ftecref14.html)
69velle Jul 2nd, 05, 3:50 PM Well, its all solved. That little orange wire was the culprit. Thanks Guys
Mike
Pretty sure that orange wire is supposed to be a fusible link, I know it is on a 67 anyway.
undee70ss Jul 2nd, 05, 7:38 PM Pretty sure that orange wire is supposed to be a fusible link, I know it is on a 67 anyway.
Yes, its supposed to be.
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