: Can Grade 8 bolts replace upper CA Shaft bolts
Ed_64SS Jun 30th, 05, 12:13 PM I just read a posting about making sure you use "starter bolts" to attach the starter to the engine. I was planning to use Grade 8, but I'll have to rethink that one. Now I'm a bit gun shy about substituting grade 8 bolts for other bolts on the car. Are there any other places (like the upper CA shaft bolts, lower CAs, and steering box) where the grade 8 should not be substituted?
I know that the upper CA shaft bolts are splined, so that's a difference. Is there any other reason the Grade 8 bolts can't be used there and in the lower CAs? I just like the color contrast between that and the control arm.
Where shouldn't they be used?
Thanks.
sinned Jun 30th, 05, 8:43 PM Grade 8 hardware can be substituted for any bolt on the car except the starter bolts and only because they are knurled-no other reason. Replacing the control arm cross shaft to frame hardware will really **** off the alignment guy as it very difficult to access the back side with the vehicle at ride height. I've welded grade 8 bolts in and that works well.
rubadub Jul 1st, 05, 3:19 AM When GM built these cars they used different grades in different areas for a reason, grade 8 will snap, standard will wear more or bend, then the question of what grade nut on that grade 8' locking or standard, then what about removal, sometimes you can't get a torch (fire) cutoffwheel (no room) hacksaw or drill (to hard). Ed, dennis is right, but when you're working on your car have you run into a few surprises on the different type of fasteners then you know what I'm trying to say. Lets say you get to old and you have to take your car in to get something fixed what will the mechanic run into. Ed it sounds like you're trying hard to do it correctly as you can, and thats a good thing to, but dennis way will work just as well and in the long run it probably really doesn't matter its more like what makes you comfortable. If you use the right grade fasteners and torque them to specs, then document it, you will rarely ever have to visit it again. Rob.
Ed_64SS Jul 1st, 05, 8:44 AM Your comments give a me a new perspective on things. I know I've looked at things previous owners have done on my car and thought to myself "Why the h*** would someone do it that way and make it impossible to work on?"
Something else to consider. I'll stop thinking to myself "I'll just remove the engine/trans/body to adjust/remove/replace something (headers comes to mind) if I need to work on it.
So, standard splined bolts to hold shaft to frame (or welded Grade 8) for sure, and then closer analysis on the other areas.
Thanks for the feedback!
JYD71_454 Jul 1st, 05, 3:23 PM When I restored my Chevelle, I put alot of time in at the hardware store picking out replacement hardware. One place I did not mess around was on the suspension parts. Fortunately, I had a buddy who worked as the parts guy at a dealership. I simply highlighted the hardware I wanted on copies of the assembly manual and he got them ordered. Amazingly, much of the hardware was readily available and was relatively cheap too. If I was going to do another Chevelle, I'd get one of those hardware kits for around $120 and be done with it.
4554bbl Jul 1st, 05, 3:28 PM i think you can still buy the upper splined shaft bolts new from gm. as far as welding on bolts, doesn't that change the temper/load ability of the fastener?
sinned Jul 1st, 05, 6:52 PM i think you can still buy the upper splined shaft bolts new from gm. as far as welding on bolts, doesn't that change the temper/load ability of the fastener?
Not when properly done.
andrewb70 Jul 1st, 05, 6:55 PM A I recall, new splined upper control arm bolts were about 3 bucks from a Chevy dealership.
Andrew
hbcruiser Jul 1st, 05, 10:41 PM Here is the GM part# 381909 GR.6.178 They come in a box of 6 they are still available
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