I'm currently using the NAPA 15210 etch over my mud work and on bare metal and topping with 15221 and blocking it. My question is there a primer in there line that produces a thicker (mil) than the 15221. My mud work is fairly close, but I seem to be respraying alot to get it straight. In the past I have used a PPG hi-build primer that was able to get 8 mil out of. Thanks your for help and others I have learned SO MUCH. This is a teen agerfather/sons project and I LIKE TO HAVE THEM READ THE POST TO LEARN as we go.We have two 69 chevelles (one for each boy)This will have US working on chevelles for 3-4 more years. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!!!!!!!

rb if you ask the paint store they should be able to give you the right info. I never rely on what the counter guy says but ask him to provide you with tech sheets. Those sheets will tell any thing you want to know about the product. That way you can find a higher building primer then the one you are using. I dont know much about the NAPA enco line of paints but they are all made by sherwin williams and is the same stuff as martin senour just different labels. Anyway my last shop I worked for used S-W paint and we used a primer under the number of PH-48. It is a good high build primer and similar to that PPG primer you used.

Where in Iowa you located at, am in Clarion just north of Fort Dodge...Eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

rb69, 8 mils is a ton of primer! About six is as far as you should need. Anyway, there are no other Econobody urethanes. The Econobody polyester part number 15205 is made by PCL and is very good, my favorite polyester. One good thing about it is you can apply it over etch primer, unlike other polyesters.

If you want a urethane Martin Senour's 5102 is super. My favorite is 5103 Tint/PRIME in a similar color that you plan on top coating with. I have had VERY good luck with it. No sealer, just sand with 500 and BC/CC.

It looks kinda transparent when you shoot it, but don't be fooled it has 38% solids, very high filling.

By the way, if you didn't know. That Econobody 15210 is and I mean IS Trio/PRIME 8847 at half the cost. If you want to blow away the counter person at your NAPA show him the MSDS on the two products, EXACTLY the same.

Marketing, they play us like puppets. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Eric, I live east of Des Moines-thanks for your ideas, any chance you would know of or have a good passenger door for a 69 chevelle?
MARTINSR, are the 5102 or 5103 any thicker than the econo line? With the humidity 80-90% I'm have some problems with small pin type holes in the 15221 when i put several coats back to back. I'm I not letting it flash enough between coats?They sand out fine but I'm must be doing something wrong. Thanks to the both of you for your help!!!!!!

Sorry rb I dont have any 69 doors but I know of a few places to look, Ill check them out. As for your pinhole problem you mention back to back coats. What excatly are you doing or how are you applying? You should spray one coat then let it dry or flash for the time listed on the tech sheets, but since the high humdity you might be able to respray faster, just make sure the primer is dry. You say "back to back" to me that means right after you get done you start right over again, not letting the primer flash. That would cause the pinholes, you are trapping the first coats solvents in the second coat and they cant escape. Also you might be applying a too heavy of a coat. Its better to apply four light coats then two heavy ones. A heavy coat is pretty much the same as the "back to back" coat.

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

I have to say, pin holing in that primer was the ONLY complaint I ever got out of the Enonobody chemical line (the sandpaper SUCKS).

It can be done without pin holes but you have to use the slowest reducer and be sure it is atomizing well and DON'T BOMB IT ON. We all do it, especially when we are hoping to get a little more fill, we just simply apply it a little heavier.

The 5102 is very hard to solvent pop, the 5103 is not as much but much better than the Econobody.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Eric, you are right on about the pin holes- I have been starting at one point on the front fender and when I have finished I turn around and start over usually using three coats-I will stop for a period in between coats.
Eric & MARTINSR, Iam blocking fenders,trunk lid,doors and quarters and plan to reinstall them with the hopes of using the 15221 on the final, if it doesn't lay down right is it ok to sand w/400-500 and seal it then apply color? If things don't go right and the seasons change before I get things straight I may have to leave a coat of untouched 15221 till spring. In my ruff stage of blocking I'm usinga 9" 3M hook it pad w/ 220 paper, that's alittle ruff, but should it help speed up straighting it???? THANKS AGAIN FOR THE GUIDANCE!!!!!