I've got some heavy rust (but not all the way through yet) in the trunk on the 70 conv (mostly on the driver's side, front corner). It has formed under the trunk mat before I realized it. I've chipped and scraped away the worst and now it needs to be treated and neutralized. What have you guys found to be the most effective way to treat and/or eliminate rust like this? After treating, what have you guys been coating it with for future protection?

POR15 works geat for me.Try POR15.com,I think it will help...

graemlins/waving.gif
Rick

Tom I thought I had what you describe (heavy rust with no holes). After some light poking around I found that I had three holes :eek: , which I cleaned up and filled in with JB Weld. Don't want to rain on your parade, just something to think about smile.gif .

I had some surface rust in mine which I sanded off before spatter painting, including the clear topcoat. The rust came back soon after, when some rain water evidently leaked into the trunk and soaked into the mat. I POR'd the entire trunk floor then spatter painted it again. That was 4 years ago and no rust has come back yet.

PERFECT, that's exactly what I need to know!!!
Who carries the POR product line? NAPA, or any parts stores?

I get mine from Permanent Restoration. (877)693-7878. Check out their website at www.PRP-Porstore.com. (http://www.PRP-Porstore.com.) POR has a lot of different products now. BTW, I don't use any of their preps or cleaners and it works just fine. I also paint over it without any problems with adhesion.

Tom,
I had the same thing happen in my 66' convertible, under the mat. I found that the trunk seal was bad and everytime I washed my car, it leaked into the trunk and sat under the mat, rusting. graemlins/angry.gif I replaced the trunk seal, got all the surface rust off and re-spatter painted and sealed the trunk and I decided not to put the mat back in, just in case ;) trunk looks brand new again.

just my 2 Cents

later, graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Tom Z

I got mine directly for por15.com. Took 3 days to arrive. Cost me about 45 bucks for a quart of por15 and a quart of por15 top coat chassis black.

I'd build the area back up with Por's fiber mat material. I had some pitting on my floorboard and laid some of that stuff in there while I was painting. I'll post some pics in a few minutes.

You might also have to smooth the area over their epoxy putty when you're done.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Dcp_1795.jpg

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Dcp_1796.jpg

Tom,

Like the guys said, use the POR-15. Remove loose rust with a wire bush, treat with "Metal Ready" (a POR product also), paint with POR-15, then apply some of the POR "Tie Coat Primer" before finally spraying your trunk spatter paint over the entire repair. Great advice from Randy also if you have a structural problem (panel too thin).
So you will need POR-15, Metal Ready and Tie Coat Primer from the POR website. The only time you would not need the "tie coat primer" is if you were applying the "Chassis Coat Black" over the POR-15. graemlins/waving.gif

If the trunk is all you are planning on treating with the POR paint. Just get their "super starter kit". It comes with the marine clean metal wash, the metal ready primer (leaves a zinc coating when rinsed) and a pint of the POR15 paint. It is more than enough to do an entire trunk. A little of that stuff goes a long way. And, don't de afraid to brush it on like they suggest, beleive me, it will smooth out and look like it was sprayed! I don't think many people recomend spraying it due to the unhealthy vapors.

I also have never used the tie-coat primer when I wanted to apply another paint over the POR. I have always had good results just scuffing the POR then painting over it.

Dwayne

I've never used the "Metal Ready" or "Marine Clean" either and haven't had any problems with POR-15.

I emailed them and they replyed to say that they have a "kit" which will do a whole trunk. I only need to treat about 1/3 of the trunk (mostly on the driver's side).
Does everyone agree that this would be sufficient?
Do they have a trunk spatter paint, or do I need to get that locally, such as NAPA? (we have a BIG NAPA store here which also has a paint dept)

Tom,

To my knowledge POR does not carry the spatter paint. NAPA or the restoration supply houses should be able to take care of that. I second Randy's advice about the PowerMesh fabric over any potentially weak areas. Worked great on my previous Chevelle.

My big NAPA store has the spatter paint which DOES NOT require a clear coat.

Tom, Unless the areas you're going to treat have been oily or greasy, or are thin enough to need some reinforcing, a PINT (it goes a long, long way) of POR-15 gloss black is ALL you need. Semi-gloss black and a couple other colors are about $2 more. Just wire brush away the loose rust and brush on the POR. Let it dry 24 hours before topcoating with spatter paint or the topcoat paint will lift off. BE SURE to put on latex gloves before opening the can. If POR dries on your skin it has to wear off. If you catch it before it dries, laquer thinner will take it off. To store, double over a piece of Saran Wrap and put it between the can and lid before tapping the lid down. If any dries between lid and can, the lid won't come off.

OK, thanks.

Tom,before putting the splatter over the POR,besure to scuff it with a green scuff pad..Also,I've tried the plastic wrap under the lid trick and have both cans of por dry up after awhile.MY best luck has been to poke two holes in the can,one in the lid and the other in the side opposite of the one in the lid.Pour out what you need then just put screws in the holes.This can has lasted almost a year that way.I just bought a pint of the semigloss this week and did the same to it.
The POR putty and the POR patch are also great items.

graemlins/waving.gif
Rick

Be sure to store it in a refridgerator, especially if you buy it but can't get around to making the repair right away. I've had the stuff fire off in the can and harden like a brick. That's aggravating when you go to do a job and find that it's set up.

Here's a place in Houston that sells it

www.brysondist.com (http://www.brysondist.com)
Give them a call. They can also tell you who your local distributors are.

Originally posted by DZAUTO:
I emailed them and they replyed to say that they have a "kit" which will do a whole trunk. I only need to treat about 1/3 of the trunk (mostly on the driver's side).
Does everyone agree that this would be sufficient?
Do they have a trunk spatter paint, or do I need to get that locally, such as NAPA? (we have a BIG NAPA store here which also has a paint dept) Tom,

Look at my earlier reply (above)... you should get the spatter paint from OPG or Ground Up. graemlins/waving.gif