I reposted this one from the Brake Conversions forum...

I've read in some posts that it's difficult to change the front suspension (control arms, coil springs, etc) in a car with no engine because there is not enough weight to compress the springs. I know I've seen pictures in posts where people have done this.

How should I do it? Coil spring compressor? Should I just get a bunch of buddies to stand on the frame while I jack up the control arm? What happens when one of them staggers off the frame while I'm compressing it?

By the way, the ceiling to too high to wedge a board between it and the frame as has been suggested.

Thanks.

It can be done if you can gather enough of heavy friends to make up for the weight of the engine. A chain around the spring is a very good idea. A good spring compressor migh be an even better idea. Check this link (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95011), it will tell you what you shouldn't use. Be safe!

Ed,
I did mine with no engine or front sheet metal. Used a Snap On spring compressor ... piece of cake.

I've run into this problem myself and I think I have a crafty solution, although it might be a little too much work for the one timer.
If you were doing this on a regular basis, you could affix 2 anchors of some sort into the concrete, (eye bolt anchor of some sort ??), attach a chain and then attach to the cars frame. One on either side and close to the spring or rearward of the spring pocket. Maybe even go around the frame with the chain and then back down to the eye in the floor. With the proper length of chain, you could lift the car up until the chain was tight. Then put the car on jack stands, remove the jack and use to jack up the lower control arm.

If you were jacking up the drivers side lower control arm with the spring installed, the chain on the drivers side would hold the cars frame down while the jack stand on the passengers side would keep the right side of the car from going down. Kind of like a teeter totter affect, but with a stop (jack stand) on one side to keep the car from tilting.

It's all about leverage !


Nate

this is how i did it with no motor and a bare frame.
http://forums.performanceyears.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&f=5916037811&m=284105788
david

I got a coil spring compressor (the kind that goes inside the spring) from Autozone with their loan-a-tool dealy. They put the cost of the tool on my CC and when I returned it they credited 100%. Western Auto had something like that when I lived in Ohio. Piece of cake. A lot safer, too. Great for tools you don't use very often.

a

Thanks. I read the link from the previous posting and I have to tell you, I like the idea of running the chain around the a-arm and jack base, and even putting a chain through the spring for safety.
The idea of compressing a spring before putting it in the car when it's only me and the spring is kinda scary.

But one question for the guys that have done it that way. Is there enough room to place an uncompressed spring in place using the chain around the jack method? I'm also guessing that as I compress the spring, I need to finagle with a pry bar to get it to seat properly.

Any opinions on this method?

Thanks,

Ed

ed,
i used the "spring compressor thru the shock mount hole method" and did not need a pry bar.
my control arms were powder coated and i was concerned about scratching them.
just set the hooks like what was explained in the pics and the coil spring goes right in.
david

An even easier solution is to place a pair of nailed-together 2x4s or a 4x4 between the top of the frame rail to a rafter in your garage ceiling. The boards provide resistance to allow you to compress the spring with a floor jack under the lower control arm. This method has worked fine for me many times (got the suggestion from another member here on TC) without the use of any special tools, etc.

Chain the spring in for extra safety if you wish. Make sure to get the spring seated in the pockets in the lower control arm and the frame before you compress the spring much or it will be quite difficult to turn it to the proper orientation later.

An even easier solution is to place a pair of nailed-together 2x4s or a 4x4 between the top of the frame rail to a rafter in your garage ceiling. The boards provide resistance to allow you to compress the spring with a floor jack under the lower control arm. This method has worked fine for me many times (got the suggestion from another member here on TC) without the use of any special tools, etc.

Chain the spring in for extra safety if you wish. Make sure to get the spring seated in the pockets in the lower control arm and the frame before you compress the spring much or it will be quite difficult to turn it to the proper orientation later.

And make sure that your trusses have hurricane straps. ;)

I just purchased a new internal coil spring compressor thru ebay that works great. I paid $20 for it and $10 for shipping. What a deal, since NAPA wants $80 to rent it. Of course you get all of your money back when you return it, if you do so within 30 days.

I'm gonna have to remember that shock hole trick the next time I do the Firebird. Couldn't compress the springs with my compressor enough, as the spring pockets are deep. Couldn't use the both-spindles-hooked-up,-jack-up-the-control-arm method either, as the new poly bushings were a bear to install just by themselves. :rolleyes: That trick probably would've been safer than what I ended up going with. It involved the compressor, jack, and a come-along. :eek: ;) Made loud noises, too. I won't pass that one on, you gotta be at wits end, and be a man about it. :D