My frame has just returned from Chemstrip. It has a coating called "Ospho" on it to prevent flash rust from handling. What should it be covered with? POR? DP?
Thanks.

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Make sure you prep it well, I have had to redo two high dollar cars that were chemically dipped. You need to scuff your chassis real good, and go around the seams and clean them out also. They say the stuff is nutrilized when it leaves but they dont get everything. I had camaros in my shop that the paint was discolored around all the seems (body was dipped too) , and frame paint would flake off in chunks, and it was all because the first restoration person didnt do the prep work.

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Micky Hale Restorations
69 L-89 Chevelle
68 Biscayne 427/425
34 Plymouth Drag Car
ACES #134

Micky, should I also use a lacquer thinner while scuffing to get in the cracks/seams?

I certainly wouldn't attempt to sway you one way or another in case yours didn't turn out. But I've used POR15 with excellent results. If you choose that route, I have a few hints:

Do not use any type of product that contains petroleum distillates once the wash is complete. The POR won't cure properly and you'll have a real mess on your hands.

Make sure you use the Marine Clean to remove any grease or residue that might have gotten on the metal.

Definitely use the etcher after chemical dipping to get a good bond.

I got a chuckle out of the protector to prevent flash rusting. The POR stuff works better with surface rust. I have a '69 Vette frame in my driveway that is getting a nice coating of rust on it. I laugh whenever someone warns me it's rusting and the look they get when I tell them I'm conditioning it for paint!

When I was looking into alternatives, I discovered that powdercoating will not coat inside the frame. Depending on your level of restoration, this may or may not be a concern. If it is, then you'll want to get the frame e-coated prior to powdercoating it. That starts to get expensive and I chose to just run a rag soaked in POR through the inside of the frame.

Good luck in your quest!

Lacquer thinner or paint prep will work, use detail brushes to get in the cracks good or small wire brushes. Most everyone on here seems to like the POR 15, I dont know, we dont use it for our restos, DP 90 Works on most everything we do as far as drivers go and some of our show stuff also. Go with what you like.

[This message has been edited by micky69396 (edited 08-01-2000).]

Mickey, I have a theory regarding the popularity of POR15- most of the people frequenting this site are amateur painters like me ('course, I could be wrong :O )

I don't have the equipment, access to products or expertise necessary to do a good spray job. Most of my projects are spray bombs or paint on finishes like POR15. POR15 results in a pretty good finish for the level of expertise necessary. It offers a highly resilient coating under adverse surface conditions.

However, it'll never match a pro job applied to a virgin surface. I hope I didn't unwittingly imply it would.

If you have the wherewithall to go the full route, I'd be right there encouraging it. I was just offering insight for anyone chosing the POR15 route.

[This message has been edited by JYD71_454 (edited 08-01-2000).]

I imagine it does work good as I have heard nothing bad about the stuff at all. I just have had no experience with it. I forget most of the time that some are not fortunate enough to have the spay equipment or places to do it. Regardless, I have seen some awfully nice cars come from puff cans, just do the best prep work you can.

Personally, I would powder coat. That is the toughest stuff I have seen so far.

Peter

Sounds like there's still a chemical on the frame (to prevent flash/rust). Is scuffing and thinner the best way to remove it. Does it need to be entirely removed?
Didn't Chuck dip a 70conv and coat with POR15? What month/year was that article?

THANKS for everyones help...GREAT SITE....

The Info that you are looking for on the 70 Chevelle frame is in Chevelle World the September/October Vol.3 No.5, You can always call the ACES HOTLINE.

Chuck