On my third top switch, they keep burning out - any other reason that causes this? Just seems odd I keep going thru them. Is it just crummy repros?

Thks

Rich

You could put a relay in the circuit and let it take the current and not the SW.

Thks - any idea what type of relay to buy and where to splice it in? Sorry electrical issues are my weaker areas.

By the way - I met you at Chevlleabration, forgot your name - I enjoyed seeing your car - very cool transformation.

Thks

Rich

Hi Rich,
If you want to send one, or all, of the bad switches to me I'd be happy to try to evaluate it to see if I can see a design deficiency with it since you indicate that the three of them are reproduction. A couple things to check would be to make sure the pump is not drawing exessive current, and make sure the fuse, or circuit breaker, has not been bypassed.

The relay idea would indeed keep the heavy current out of the switch and would easiest be done with two relays instead of one. One for up and the other for down. There should be short adapter harness - about 12" long - that goes from the switch to the main top harness. That would be the best place to put the relays so you could make it a plug in thing and not have to cut, or splice, the factory harnesses. It would be too hard for me to explain verbally, but I could fax, or email you a schematic if you like.

Thks - I may have the others - in fact I believe the first one was an original - but not sure.

Thks for the info on the relay - it's an option I'd be willing to try - can e-mail me @ reccop60@msn.com or fax to 732 542-5016.

Thks

Rich

hey Rich
Make sure you have the factory relay on the firewall from the switch to the top motor. You coming down this weekend?

Thks - I may have the others - in fact I believe the first one was an original - but not sure.



Thks

Rich

I haven't forgotten, just haven't had time to make up a sketch and send it to you yet. The factory harness has no relay, I think the "relay" he is refering to is a circuit breaker. I've seen convertibles with a firewall mounted circuit breaker, and others with a fuse in the fuse panel. My 72 convertible has a fuse in the fuse panel, no circuit breaker. It may be a difference between Olds, Chevy, and different years as to whether it has a circuit breaker or fuse. Either way, you should make sure the fuse, or circuit breaker, is installed properly (i.e. if it is supposed to have a fuse, make sure there is not a "slug" instead of a fuse).

I tried to fax you the sketch. I don't know if it went through though. I hope it is not too confusing to understand it. Keep in mind that if the problem causing the switches to go bad is something like the pump drawing too much current, adding the relays will not fix the problem. In that case one, or both of the relays may go bad, but it would at least save the switch.

richr:

The switch in my 64 melted and the repro replacement melted almost immediately. I bought a heavy duty switch from Convertible Service, www.convertibleparts.com, and it has worked flawlessly for 5 months.

The switch is not stock and I had to drill a small hole at the bottom of the dash panel to get the switch to fit. Other than that, nothing to it.

Good luck.

Tony

Tony,

Thks for the link.

70myway,

Got the fax thks - I hooked up with a guy not far from my house, going there next Sat morn, he said he'll check the current draw from the motor, the alignment and movement of the frame and the wiring. Also picked up two extra switches from Ground Up - they got them in stock again. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

Thks

Rich