Well my car is finally all in primer, what a job so far. Anyhow, I think I have done a pretty good search on blocking primer and belive I am just about ready to go, but I wanted to go over what I think I am supposed to be doing.

I have been using DuPont products so far, I used Variprime on all the bare metal and then laid on their URO primer-filler.

I got a set of these Dura-Block sanding blocks in various shapes and sizes, plus some other different type of sanding blocks. As for sandpaper I got a roll of the self-adhesive 220 grit paper.

After reading through alot of posts, it seems that 180 would have been a better choice for sanding the first coat. Will I be allright using the 220, or should I go out and get a roll of 180? I figured being the first time I have done this the 220 wouldn't "get away from me" as quick :rolleyes:

Also, I should be sanding this first coat dry, right?

Oh, and I was going to use a contrasting color of spray Krylon for a guide coat.

Any and all comments/suggestions are appreciated!! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Steve, if I recall right. That 220 will do just fine, theres not much difference in 180 to 220 keep the 220 since you already have it.

That dupont primer uroprime is a fine choice, we sprayed dupont at my last shop but its been 3yrs since Ive been there :(

Those durablocks do look like a good board. But just in my opinion the best blocks Ive found for that last blcoking of filler and primer has got to be the "adjustable flex sander" Those are a sweet tool. The website is www.johnwheeler.us (http://www.johnwheeler.us) or drop him a line at 651-459-7169.

They are a spendy item, I bought 2 kits 2 years ago at I believe 120-130 bucks a kit, which includes 6 blocks at diff lengths. They change from a hard to very flexable board by removing rods out of the sander body :eek:

They are the blocks labeled 7. Notice the rods sticking out on the shorter one...Eric
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/blocksanders11.jpg

A couple of other thing I wanted to ask... how much of the car do you tackle at once? Like I was going to start first on the 'cab' (roof, quarters, jams) and then once thats done put the second coat of primer on and let that sit, and move on to the hood, etc. untill the whole thing is done and then repeat. :confused:

Oh, and this is another thing I really wanted to talk about, what if you run into a problem area, something you cant block out with primer, how would you treat such a problem?
I have a couple of said problem areas, example one.. low spot on hood. I know it will need filler, I should have seen it before I put the primer on, but it's kind of a long story. graemlins/clonk.gif

Anyhow, what I figured on was doing the filler over primer. Now I have the appropriate DuPont epoxy for applying filler over and was going to spray the problem area, apply filler, sand, and then block the rest of the hood and put on the second coat of fill primer. What do you think?

Second is a few pinholes in the plastic that was done under the primer, not sure if they will block out in the primer or not. I have this 3M Piranha Putty, is this what you would call a spot glaze? I had e-mailed DuPont's tech dept. to ask about the appropriate primer for putting filler out over and they said this...

"Thank you for your inquiry and interest in Du Pont products. Body fillers
of any type can only be applied over an epoxy which would be the Direct-
to- Metal® , Prime'n Seal® or Corlar®. The issue with filler over primer
is that you do not want to use anything that can allow moisture under the
filler. Therefore, an epoxy is the only choice and it must be allowed to
dry well then sanded with 80 or 180 grit before application of a filler.
Any other primer, other than epoxy chemistry, can allow moisture under the
filler. Spot glazes for pinholes and such can be used over fill primers."

Now, do you think by spot glaze they mean the new two part products like the 3M one I have, or the old 'apply right out of the tube' stuff?

Comments/Opinions??

P.S. Eric, I wanted to tell you, the door skin job you advised me on went pretty well. The bottom edge I was very pleased with, either end I did have to use some filler to smooth things out though, but this was my first try so all in all it wasn't too bad.

Steve, if thats your name I hope it is smile.gif
The way I would do it say get your left door metal finished out and all filler work done. Spary your etch primer then uroprime. Then move on to the next door and do the body work to it. Hopefully by the time you are ready for primer on that door the other door is ready to be blocked out(I like to wait 1 week between sanding). Block out the first door and apply primer to both doors.

Now move on to a fender, do body work and what not. Once that 1 week has pasted block sand both doors and primer doors and fenders. Continue to prime items til you are happy with the straightness.

Ok you can apply filler over that uro prime but I would only use a glazing putty like evercoats metal glaze or upol's dolphin glaze which we use at work. When doing this it should be ONLY be used to fix minor low spots that primer wont fill. Just on wednesday I did this, I fixed a boxside on a 03 ranger when I primed the truck I found I missed just a slight low spot :mad: . I allowed the primer to sit over night and then fisrt thing next morning I scuffed that spot with 80 grit and applied some glazing putty. Blocked it smooth with 180 and then primed again. Now keep in mind this should ONLY be used to fix minor spots. As for the pinholes scuff them up to with 80 grit and apply putty and smooth out. Primer wont fill those holes. I have learned a trick for filling them with primer. Right above the hole i spray a tad more primer then with my finger tip and kinda press that primer in the hole.

You just dont want to apply regular filler over 2K for fixing major spots, just small spots with a putty. If you have major problems that need more then glazing putty you should have spent more time working it before primer.

As for spot putties in my book that is the ready to spread CRAP right out of the tube. It is nothing more then a condensed form of lacquer primer and that will shrink, still leaving the hole visiable after time. Use nothign less but the 2K putties.

Ive done the glaze over 2K primer for years and yet to see any problems, just make sure its a small minor area. But yes DUpont is right epoxy is the recommended primer to be used for the filler over primer method...Eric

Yep, Steve it is. Anyhow, thanks for taking the time to answer my long winded posts, seems you have been the only one who has tried to tackle them lately. I know the advise I get in this forum has saved me alot of time learnig the hard way.

Well, I think I have my game plan sorted out now. Next week I should start to sand. Wish me luck...
graemlins/waving.gif
Steve

Steve not trying to shove this on you but look into those flex sanders. I tried the website I posted and it doesnt come up. I just came back from the car craft show in MINN and talked to John himself(super nice guy) I mentioned the site being down. He said it should be up and running but the phone number is the same.

I promise you if you buy those you will love them, if not let me know and Ill buy them from you. They are well worth the 120 bucks and then some. The guys that did the goodmark 70 chevelle used the AFS sander and raved about them as much as I do...Eric