Rear Window Rust@Rookie Tech@Help [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Rear Window Rust@Rookie Tech@Help


10bolt
Apr 5th, 04, 10:43 PM
My 69 Malibu is in good shape but the rear window rust is killing me. Its all I can see when I look at the car. I have never done any body work and was hoping to learn as I go along. My shop teacher can help me along the way but I want some other opinions on what to do. I was told I could cover the rust up and it would last a few years but the only way to get rid of it is to cut it out and add new sheetmetal. I have decided to cover it up because I don't have alot of extra cash and I drive it all the time so it isn't in show condition. All I want is a nice driver. I have been told about several products like MIRACLE" PAINT PERMANENT RUST & CORROSION INHIBITOR that I can apply then a filler and paint. Does anybody recommend any products and tips to this job. I have some pics of the rust if anyone is interested.
thanks steve

70mousejob
Apr 5th, 04, 11:07 PM
Sorry Steve, but the only good way to take care of it is to cut it out and weld in new. If you cover it up you're just hiding the problem. Those miracle paints and what not are alot of hype, and definitely aren't the right way to do the job. You may be better off leaving it as is, and saving to have it done right.

Best of Luck,

dreinecke
Apr 5th, 04, 11:30 PM
Steve,

Wait! I realize you may be on a budget, but here's something that'll do well for several years.

I used POR15 to treat my entire window area. I had the glass professionally removed, I spent the weekend cleaning and applying the POR15, and not a leak in 5 years, nor any sign of the rust spreading.

I used the POR15 putty to fill in the pin holes ( and a few pencil eraser sized ones) and that has worked great.

Then they reinstalled the window and trim for me. Works mint!

Look them up on the web. It is a 3 step process, but one that works. I also did my front glass area this way.

I've got pics on my site of the windows being done: check out the restoration button on my site and you'll find the pics.

Good luck, and don't let it get you down!

BusDriver
Apr 6th, 04, 12:16 PM
Something like POR will work, but the key is to get rid of the rust thats there. dont have to cut if its still decently strong, but be downright paranoid about getting it clean clean CLEAN of rust before you POR/prime and repaint.

I'd remove the window, pull your interior (to prevent a mess on the seats/carpet) and really go at it to see the extent of the damage you have to work with. It might not be THAT bad.

BusDriver
Apr 6th, 04, 12:18 PM

10bolt
Apr 6th, 04, 10:33 PM
I have a link with a pic of the rust. I looked up the por 15 website and think I will order Resto Grip body filler and straightline filler as well as the super starter kit. What order should I do this. Sand,marine clean, resto grip filler,sand,straightline filler,sand, metal ready, por15 then paint????? Any suggestion will help
thanks
steve

http://mysite.verizon.net/res6u0o5/id3.html

Mr.McFast
Apr 7th, 04, 11:06 PM
Steve im gonna put it to u like this say u got a credit card bill at 20 % intrest it keeps going and going and going it wont go away until u take care of it if u cover it up hell its gonna keep growing and that would eventually mean ur whole car would be gone so listen to me now FIX IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME....... youll be a whole lot better than doin some cheap $#!T cover up.. i dont wanna affend u if ur on a budget but if u ask me its gona cost about the same no matter how you do it.... id rather weld it smile.gif :(

66n67
Apr 8th, 04, 6:28 AM
I know just about as much as you do about body work, where to put the gas. However I saw your picture and it looks pretty minor. I would remove the window trim, grind down to bare metal and fix. Take the car out of service for a month, you can make arrangements. That way if you have to weld you can. You are in school and apparently have access to body shop tools, paint booth etc. I would borrow money and a ride and do it right whatever it takes. You have more time now then you will later, TRUST ME. Good Luck.

Second_chance_SS
Apr 8th, 04, 10:02 AM
I foresee Pandora's Box !! The bubbling may indicate underlying filler. Buy a trim removal tool. You will have a better idea what you're up against once the trim is off. Buy the POR15. Apply per their directions, leaving enough rust for the chemical reaction to work. The POR will stop the rust. Smooth with filler and rattle can paint it. I've seen these " do it right the first time" projects end at the front bumper !!! I know it is well meant advise, but I get the feeling you aren't in the position to accomplish that. Stopping the rust now will save a bigger repair down the road, when you can, hopefully, get it "done right". One other thing, go in the trunk and look up at the area from underneath. You may well want to treat the rust from there also, to prevent it coming thru from below. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

ngb
Apr 12th, 04, 8:27 PM
If I was in your boots I would follow second_chance_SS advice.

Nicki

SS_Dave
Apr 13th, 04, 4:49 PM
Steve,

you need to stop the rust now.
I don't see any really bad problems here, as the
base metal doesn't have any holes yet that you can see. You might have one in the window channel.
That can be welded, sealed and painted, it wont show. I would sant blast with a very fine media to get the rust out of the pores of the metal.
Then use an epoxy primer or etching primer to coat it. If you use the epoxy, you will seal and stop the rust right there. If you had to , you could drive with it like that. The epoxy is great stuff. Use allmetal to level the poc marks from the rust and then primer and paint.
What ever you do, don't cover it up with bondo.
It will continue to rust and be a hole when it rears it's ugly head again.

Dave

dreinecke
Apr 13th, 04, 4:57 PM
Gents,

You are all correct, and each of those suggestions is excellent. But go back to his original request: he's NEVER done any bodywork, AND he's on a budget. Depending on what he finds when he pulls the glass (and chances are it'll be the normal holes), it is "repairable" and can last for several years. Using what I said above, I've kept mine from leaking for 5 years - and I only did this once. Not a perfect solution, but a decent temporary fix that can hold until the budget and skills allow. I plan on redoing mine when I do the body, but I'm probably 2 years away from that. At that time, I'll have the metal done right.