hey guys, thanks for the help on my earlier HVLP question. Could the low pressure at the gun have caused the "orange peel" finish on the test panels ? I'm just looking for verification... graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Not only "could" it but it is likely the problem.
Have you read the "Basics of Basics" Gun set up and atomization CLICK HERE. (http://www.camaros.net/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002548) ?

I know there is a lot to digest. Read it slow a number of times until you really get it. It is the KEY to applying paint, clear and primer. smile.gif

Originally posted by MARTINSR:
Not only "could" it but it is likely the problem.
Have you read the "Basics of Basics" Gun set up and atomization CLICK HERE. (http://www.camaros.net/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002548) ?

I know there is a lot to digest. Read it slow a number of times until you really get it. It is the KEY to applying paint, clear and primer. smile.gif Thanks Brian, yes I have read it and learned a ton from it. I was hoping you would validate my suspiscion on this post graemlins/thumbsup.gif You and Eric have taught all of us so much about paint and body and we all appreciate it very much.


One more question, I applied a skim coat of Evercoat poly glazing putty on a door panel last weekend and it did it's job feathering out beautifully and sanding very well, but the panel still is not "flat". I guess I need to apply a guide coat and block sand ? I have only filled and used the DA sander up to this point.. :confused:

Texas, you should or need to invest in some long boards. That IS THE ONLY WAY to a flat panel.

Hutchins makes some darn good boards, and pretty cheap.
A link on some long boards
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=TFSL
The classic long board is part number AF-16
I like the PF-16 better JMO

But MY favorite boards are these bad boys:
http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AFSPRO&Category_Code=TFSL
One of the best 130 bucks IVE ever spent, truely a great sander and worth every single penny. I cant imagine sanding filler or primer with out them. You can change them from stiff like the hutchins boards to very flexible just by removing the steel rods inside the sander. I have 2 sets of these and plan on buying a third, one for home and two at work...Eric

Ok one last link:
http://www.chevelles.com/forum/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=008196#000002

Thanks Eric, that is what I suspected, so I will invest in some long boards after looking at the links you posted. With all the money I am saving by doing this myself, I can afford to buy some quality tools. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I have a rubber hand block that is about 8" or 9" long that I have started to block sand with but have gone back to the DA because the sandpaper seems to clog immediately on the block. What grade and type of sandpaper should I be block sanding with ? Thanks again as always. smile.gif

I just ordered the PF-16 board from Autobodystore.com graemlins/thumbsup.gif I suspect this will be one of the best $22 I'll ever spend. :D


Thank you Brian and Eric, you guys are great graemlins/waving.gif

If your trying to get something straight stay away from the power tools!!Usually block with 80 till close and finish up with 180.
Are you sure your compressor has the CFM to run that HVLP? Mike

Originally posted by 69ssmike:
If your trying to get something straight stay away from the power tools!!Usually block with 80 till close and finish up with 180.
Are you sure your compressor has the CFM to run that HVLP? Mike Thanks for the sanding tips Mike. No, I'm not sure about the CFM being adequate, but I did turn up the pressure to 65psi on the compressor the other night while shooting some primer/surfacer and could tell that the dried surface was much smoother than the peel appearance I was sanding earlier and the compressor seemed to keep up fine.
I was getting a nice fan pattern, good coverage and what appeared to be very good atomization. ;)