Ok, I'm doing a 4 speed conversion on my 65. It had a PG. I'm using a new CF DF clutch using their recommended TO bearing and a lakewood adj pivot ball. and Flywheel. I got a lakewood scattershield from Tom's 68 Convertible.

Last night I was getting the clutch linkage set up, kinda. It had it more or less depressing the fingers which seemed to be up to CF numbers (about 3/8 of inch of finger travel). Then i go to sleep. Today I go to install the tranny, I test the linkage again, nothing at all. First off, I don't even understand why that happened, but whatever. I adjust it again. I more or less have to MAX out the pivot ball adj, and MAX out the adjustment rod. I just say whatev' and install the tranny. I give the clutch pedal a few pumps. The clutch fork rips out the adj part of the pivot ball of the throwout bearing. Good bye 4 hours of hard work today. I was just about ready to start the beast too.

So my question is, what is the problem? Is it normal to have to max out all the adjustments. One of the problems is that when I max out the pivot ball, it pushes the end of the clutch fork back, requiring more length out of the adjustment rod, which it doesn't have. This seemed to make the linkage SUPER tense. My idea was to go with a longer throwout bearing so I wouldn't have to max all the other stuff out. Or does that even matter? Another thing was with the pivot ball maxed out like that, there were only 2 or 3 threads holding the adjustable part, which gave away under the force of the clutch.

So thats one idea, get a longer throwout bearing. Another is to get a longer adjustable throwout bearing. I noticed McLeod makes one which looks like it will go MUCH longer than the lakewood adjustable I am using. Another idea is to extend the adjustment rod more or less.

What do you guys think? I haven't able to start the car to check the clutch disengagement. I'm wandering in the dark here.

On a side note, do you think it would be a good idea to get an input shaft and slide it in postion, that way I can REALLY check the clutch without having to install the tranny. Like when I was just messing with it, I had the tranny out, so I could see the fingers, making the linkage out of adjustment. I'm learning here and trying to see what the more experienced guys have to say.

This is ugly. I would start by putting the pivot ball in the right place, there is a measurment for the thing from the face of the flywheel. Then drop the push rod down at least 1 inch, not enough room, extend the thing. That will change the mechanical advantage and push the bearing further.

Had a similar problem and that cured it.

Thanks wally. I'll try that that tomarrow. Sucks that I have to drop it again. Oh well, live and learn I guess. This is the first big project I have attempted and it has taught me a lot.

but wally couldnt he just make the pushrod longer. what do you mean drop it an inch? also what do you mean by putt the pivot ball back in place?

but wally couldnt he just make the pushrod longer. what do you mean drop it an inch? also what do you mean by putt the pivot ball back in place?

Nope, that will help push the fork and bearing into the fingers of the clutch, in most cases riding on the fingers, a large no no.

If the after market guys would get it together, then they would make these parts like the GM stuff.

You drop the mounting hole for the push rod on the Z-bar lower, it will travel more fr the same amount of pedal travel as before. BillK and I did this on a 60 vette that drove me crazy, adding a 2 inch extension with new holes, worked like a charm.

Heavy duty is the word here, 3/16 steel fitted and the weld in place.

I don't think I have room to "extend" the z-bar becuase of the headers.

Is it possible I installed the z-bar "upside down". The longer side is supposed to go the clutch pedal pushrod and the shorter part is supposed to go to clutch fork push rod.

In the linkage, the TO bearing should sit a 125/1000 off the fingers according to centerforce. The clutch fork push rod should NOT be sitting in the groove on the clutch fork at all times correct? This would be the "free play" adjustment. After some thought, I think that adjustable pivot ball can't adjust far enough out. I think I might try the McLeod one as it goes much farther out.

The measurement Wally was referring to is 3.750 from back of engine block to the flat spot on the adjustable pivot ball. Would've been easier if done before installing the shield on the motor.
I think that if you go longer on adjustment (towards motor) you run the risk of having problems on the other end such as the TO will be all the way back as far as it can go while the clutch fork arm will up against the front of the opening.
I just put a new CF DF clutch in my car. I was previously using a Lakewood can also. Did the things I mentioned above and had no problems.
The free play should not be coming from the fact that your clutch adjustment rod isn't sitting in the cup on the fork arm, it should be because of the distance the TO bearing travels before contacting the release fingers of the pressure plate. That's why I mentioned the arm contacting the front of the opening, if it is , your clutch pedal return spring will pull the adjustment rod out of the cup. This will simulate freeplay.
Hope this helps.:) Mike