496 build cost? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: 496 build cost?


JC70SS
Jun 10th, 05, 7:35 PM
I am looking to do a 496 in the Fall. I know flatlanderracing and summit sell the rebuild kit with scat crank/ JE pistons for @ $2000. What will the addition costs run as far as boring and cleaning the block? Assembly will be done by a friend, so that is not a concern. Also, is 600hp realistic with 10.1 or 10.5.1 compression?

-Joe

Hi-po SS 454
Jun 10th, 05, 7:47 PM
I'm looking for simular information on same engine build..starting with finding a block, heads and most everything else.

Bob West
Jun 10th, 05, 9:38 PM
it depends if you go roller or not, how much head work you have done...lots of variables....3k to 5k easily

Purs
Jun 10th, 05, 10:15 PM
I started with a block that didn't need much and I was definitely north of 5k counting carb, headers, etc... all forged, h beam, isky lifters, yada yada yada...

...is 600hp realistic with 10.1 or 10.5.1 compression?


I did it with at 9.5/1 compression and a good set of 781's, a pretty conservative solid cam, and a dual plane manifold. :)

you'll love the TQ of the 496 :D

I could've done it for considerably less, but kept telling myself "if I'm gonna do that I might as well do this..." and it just seemed to never stop. I was assured by almost everyone that the SCAT 9000 stuff would easily handle this amount of power. However, in a year or two, I'll probably get tired of 600HP and want more. With all forged internals I've got "room to grow." First will be the 200 shot of N20. Then if I'm still alive and not broke I can always swap to a solid roller cam, single plane intake, and a dominator. I should pick up a considerable amount.

pdq67
Jun 10th, 05, 10:20 PM
I have about $3800 to $4000 in mine and now, I know I can make one some cheaper if I use stock heads instead of new Merlin ovals.. Plus there are several inexpensive rotating assemblies out there now to choose from to help hold the total cost down more that will do nicely, (even cast crank kit's)...

pdq67

PS., Just a CC 282S solid cammed, 9.8 to 1 CR., "tow-truck" type grunt motor that per D2K sould put out something like 550 hp at 5500 and 580t at 4500 rpm...

JC70SS
Jun 10th, 05, 10:59 PM
I already have 781's. carb, msd everything oh yeah and my current block. Not sure what state the 781's are in.

Chris R
Jun 10th, 05, 11:21 PM
The 496 is a stroked 454 block correct? How much of an overbore do you have to do to it to get it to 496?

Schurkey
Jun 11th, 05, 2:02 AM
You REALLY need to get the "How to Build Monster Big Block Chevys" book. It is a collection of articles from Hot Rod magazine.

You're gonna flip when you see the article on John Lingenfelter's 496 with OEM oval port heads...

greg etts
Jun 11th, 05, 3:00 AM
The 496 is a stroked 454 block correct? How much of an overbore do you have to do to it to get it to 496?
.60 opverbore with a 4.25" stroke gets you to 496. the problem is the "i might as wells". i started looking at building a BBC ,maybe a 427. on a resonable budget for my 65 corvette coupe. well i am now about $13K into it and just getting ready to assemble my milidon splayed 4 bolt cap 2 bolt main .30 over 454 block , SCAT pro Lightweigt Forged 4.25 inch Crank, H beam Con rod, custom Ross piston, massaged Pro topline 360cc port heads, weaind 871 blower, pro system carbed, moroso electric water pump, milidon oil pan, isky solid roller cam, lifter, rocker, etc... engine. none of this of course includes the fact that i bought a whole different car for the engine cause i didn't want to chop up my 65 . so i have been dumping money into a back half, 9 inch ford rear end, monster tires and wheels, suoper HD tranny and TQ converter. all new bushings , brakes and whatever. my point here isn't to say look how much money i spent. it is to say, i started looking to build a nice powerfull 427 BBC engine for my 65 vette. i think the goverment calls it mission creep, thevette guys call it the "might as wells". call it what you want but my advice is to have a very , very clear understanding off hwat you want and expect out of your project before you buy the first piece.

GRN69CHV
Jun 11th, 05, 6:54 AM
Here's what to do - give Mike Lewis (Wolfplace) a call. He is a Scat Dealer. He will provide you with a complete internal balanced, forged crank/forged piston rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, rings,bearings), ready to drop into your prepared .060 over 454 block (either 2 bolt or 4 bolt doesn't matter). Bolt on a set of Chevy large ovals ( or rec ports - whatever you have access to at a good price), dual plane intake like a Stealth or RPM and the cam of your choice ( large flat tappet hyd will do fine as these motors like to run at a little lower RPM - Isky and others can even do the cam on a premium core that is almsot impervious to failure). Simple solution and does not have to be expensive.

forcd ind
Jun 11th, 05, 7:05 AM
i notice a lot of people build the 496(454+.060) but wouldnt you be better off building a 489(.030) that would allow another bore(to 496) if needed?
just curious on what other people think about this

shayspop
Jun 11th, 05, 7:48 AM
I built a 496 a few years back and got 768 hp out of her natural and 1114 on nitrous(pro fogger) I cut some corners on cost with a 4130 crank but still ran 4340 h beem rods.Block had to be relieved to clear the stroke with the rods so add that in the cost of the build .used a tall deck truck 4 bolt and +400 on the rods,solid roller that if i remember right was in the 740 lift range and 280 @50,brodix heads with a 2 deg. valve rollover (didnt need special pistons for the valve rollover) a single dominator carb modified to a 3 circut and to flow 1310 cfm,was 12/1 compression had this in a 72 chevelle mini tubbed with a weight of 3710 w/driver.went 9.8 natural..wasnt the best as a daily driver..

Bob West
Jun 11th, 05, 9:03 AM
Start at 496,,,when its worn out, bore it another .040 and you've got a 505.

Hi-po SS 454
Jun 11th, 05, 9:59 AM
my advice is to have a very , very clear understanding of What you want and expect out of your project before you buy the first piece.

Sounds like GOOD WORDS..........

Hi-po SS 454
Jun 11th, 05, 10:06 AM
Back to the Block. Someone said "2 bolt or 4 bolt, makes no differents", I've heard those words before, Any input on that? I myself would be happy with a 6000 RPM limit.

pdq67
Jun 11th, 05, 10:29 AM
I installed a 2-bolt main stud kit in mine for a little bit of extra peace of mind/strength insurance!!

I just installed my crank the normal way and spun and torqued her down in steps to make sure it spun fine which it did so I didn't have to do anything to the main saddle bores after the studs were put in.

I figure that if it didn't spin, I would need to hone the bores b/c of the studs.............

Another thing is that my '75 P/U 454 block swallowed my 496 rotating assembly with NO grinding/clearancing at all!! I figure it will take a 4.375" crank with minimal clearancing.... BUT I am using thumb rods tho so had to cam cut and then Heavi-Metal balance my crank..

If I did it again, I would use at least 1/4" longer rods AND not have to work my crank over!!! My bad................

pdq67

Bob West
Jun 11th, 05, 10:58 AM
I'm on my 5th big block now,in 4 different cars, always used a 2 bolt block with a self imposed 6k rpm limit,,other than occasional slips above that, I've never had a BBC bottom end give out on me, they are for the most part "bullet proof" when limited to 6k:thumbsup:

73guna
Jun 11th, 05, 11:16 AM
Are you looking for the cost of building a short block or whole motor?

Here's what I spent on my 489 short block.
1. complete 454 motor $300
2. machine costs $900,,,,line bore, deck, bore 30, clearance block for stroker kit,frost plugs, cam bearings, hot tank, internal balance rotating assy', and assembly.
3. eagle 4340 forged rotating assy'- 4.25 crank, h-beam rods, srp pistons 18cc (10.5 comp w/ brodix rr 115 chambers), file fit rings and ARP main studs $1700
Originally I planned on using a cast crank but decided on forged, the cost diff. wasnt that much more and the thought of having to upgrade to forged later if I decided to go w/ more power made the choice easy, make the bottom end strong, internal balance also.
i notice a lot of people build the 496(454+.060) but wouldnt you be better off building a 489(.030) that would allow another bore(to 496) if needed?just curious on what other people think about this
Thats what I did, save room for a future bore if needed, 7ci's cant be that much more power, though saying "I have a 496", does sound better than 489.

Building a motor is fun but w/ all the money I had in this I let the machine shop do it right, it probably would have cost more for me to buy the tools to gauge and assemble everything right.
I had approx. $2900 in the short block and could be less if I sold some of the parts that came w/ the complete block I had bought, if you have a block your already ahead of the game.

Mitch

JC70SS
Jun 11th, 05, 1:38 PM
I am just looking at the shrtblock. I have a good running 454 right now, just short on compression, otherwise I have all of the top end parts.

Hi-po SS 454
Jun 11th, 05, 8:43 PM
Hamrdown
could you go into the expense of the top end??? Appreciate the info on the lower end.... :thumbsup:

gspan1830
Jun 11th, 05, 10:52 PM
I'm on my 5th big block now,in 4 different cars, always used a 2 bolt block with a self imposed 6k rpm limit,,other than occasional slips above that, I've never had a BBC bottom end give out on me, they are for the most part "bullet proof" when limited to 6k:thumbsup:

Do you stud the mains or use the bolts??

73guna
Jun 11th, 05, 11:32 PM
Hamrdown
could you go into the expense of the top end??? Appreciate the info on the lower end.... :thumbsup:.

Sorry havent got that far yet :( .

Did get a used Eddy air gap on ebay for $170 and recently the Brodix heads from Wolfplace, you'll have to talk to him for prices.

Mitch

Bob West
Jun 12th, 05, 1:27 AM
Studs on the 505 that I'm running now, bolts in all the others.

SILVERSS454
Jun 12th, 05, 10:49 AM
You might want to check out the Coast High Performance website. They are the guys behind Probe pistons. You can get their 496 rotating assembly for about $1300 and a complete shortblock for about $3200.
I think they use a special length rod to keep the pin out of the oil ring area. Not sure how that affects bore/stroke ratio but, Chevy High Performance did an article on one of their 496's and got 625 horse/600 torque out of it with only square port Edelbrocks and a small Comp Cams XR286 solid roller cam .
Try this link
http://www.coasthigh.com/Assemblies/Chev/chev_496.htm

Hi-po SS 454
Jun 12th, 05, 12:49 PM
SILVERSS454
How do you know of CHP?? There not far from me, about 20 miles, and I don't know who they are. Probably saw adds but I never paid attention...

greg etts
Jun 12th, 05, 1:50 PM
one of the mags ran a very flattering article on them, just wish i could belive half of what i read.

Hi-po SS 454
Jun 12th, 05, 1:57 PM
one of the mags ran a very flattering article on them, just wish i could belive half of what i read.

EXACTLY !!!!!

SILVERSS454
Jun 12th, 05, 8:25 PM
SILVERSS454
How do you know of CHP?? There not far from me, about 20 miles, and I don't know who they are. Probably saw adds but I never paid attention...


Rich, I was referring to Chevy High Performance Magazine. Their January '05 edition had an article about a buildup of a Coast High Performance 496 combo.

By the way, anyone who owns BOTH Chevelles AND Trans Am's is OK in my book!!!!

Hi-po SS 454
Jun 12th, 05, 10:58 PM
By the way, anyone who owns BOTH Chevelles AND Trans Am's is OK in my book!!!!

Couldn't agree with you more :thumbsup: