Actually it is a door sheelmetal problem...the car is heading for the blast shop on Saturday, adn here is the dilema...
1. Both doors need to at least be reskinned. 2. Both doors have some rusting along the inside of the shell near the bottom.
3. The passenger door is the worst and may even need to be replaced.

Should I wait to see how bad they look after blasting, or should I hold back on paying to blast these, and just buy new skins, or buy the replacement shells that are available. the shells cost about $330 each, skins are $130 or so and blasting will be about $75 per door.

Are the replacement shells any good???? I ahould also note that in the top of the doors where the shell and skin come together has rusted pretty badly on the pass side and will need to be repaired even with a new skin.

Any help is appreciated....as always...

Mike

Spend the money and find good used doors...repro skins and door shells do not fit like the factory ones. A friend reskinned two doors and wound up finding used doors and painting those instead of living with the ill fitting repro skins...ALbert

Ive got goodmark skins on my 70. Both sides fit great and look great when bolted on the car.

Does anybody know of a pair of "good used doors" just laying around????

I sure could use them.....

I would remove the skins,THEN blast the frames.Make any repairs if needed,throw on some Goodmark skins and they'll be good as new.The Goodmark skins fit fine if you know how to install a door skin.

"Been there done that"
I'd find some good used doors. They shouldn't cost more than a couple hundred bucks. The new skins may come out nice if the guy putting them on has done them successfully in the past. I wouldn't take that chance. Not to mention what it will cost when it's done. The new skins are also different on the inside. If you care about originality, There's nothing like a real G.M. door....

How I blasted my dorrs that got skinned was, I blasted the outside with the old skin still on. Then cut a big hole in the skin to give me access to the inner of the door shell. Blasted the inside, reomved the left overs of the skin and clean up that area.

Please inform me of the difference of the skins?
And what is to say that your NEW SO CALLED RUST FREE doors arnt mudded up pieces of sh!t??

I HAD NO problems fitting the Goodmark skins to my 70 chevelle, guess I just got a good pair.

BTDT myself. Doors rust from the inside out.What looks good now could be bubbling in six months.Put a skin on and it will last forever.If you do find a rust free,dent free,filler free pair,i doubt it will be for 'a couple hundred bucks'.

Ok, now what....I cut the skin off of the passenger door last night. Now, this posed two more questions...1. does a new skin come with all the sheetmetal detail that is in the top of the original?? Ya know...that part that bends into the window hole...hell, I don't know how to describe it, except that the window fuzzies will have no home if it does not come complete..and 2. what do I do if the inside shell is rusted clean through in the area just below the bottom hinge? this was not apparent until I cut off the skin...

Help guys....!!!!!

Mike

I am in the Skin it camp.. and Goodmark door skins fit GREAT..

As for the door skin having the widow felt top lip.. YES the skin comes with that .

As for the rust in the door shell.. cut it out with a wizzer and use the cut out peice as a pattern for a patch.. ( if possible try keep the outer skin mounting flange intact and un molested) Weld in the patch, finnish the weld and smooth with filler.. blast door shell clean and paint... Yor now ready to install the door skin

MARTINSR has a "Skinning a Door Basic" in the body shop arcives.. look it up.. it's
vary well writen and give a GREAT overview of the bumping, fitting monting process..

repair the frames, blast them really clean, prime them with a good quality epoxy, apply a light bead of urethane seam sealer to the flange and install the skin letting the excess ooze out, then wipe off the excess, clean your weld areas and weld, apply a bead inside the door around the perimeter and tool with your finger, remove all of the ecoat primer in the bent areas because now it has small fractures where the bend took place, reprime the entire door and continue on with final bodywork to prepare for paint. Now that seam will last FOREVER graemlins/thumbsup.gif I stay away from the panel bonding adhesives on these old cars because the doors flex much more than the newer cars and if an adhesive fracture happens there goes all of the corrosion protection with it. Bob

Originally posted by baddbob71:
I stay away from the panel bonding adhesives on these old cars because the doors flex much more than the newer cars and if an adhesive fracture happens there goes all of the corrosion protection with it. Bob Bob, there is NO Chevelle door that flexes as much as a ANY NISSAN door which are bonded.

For that matter, this bonding has been subjected to crash tests. Believe me, the bonding will STOP flexing if anything.

For that matter, you could even use a urethane seam sealer to "bond" the skin on and still weld it at each corner. The seam sealer would remain flexable and still give you the corrosion resistance that the bonding would give.

Do they sell the adhesive is a "do it yourself" package or only in jobber sizes??

Chief.
The Urathane Seam Sealer is sold in the Standard calking tube size at your local Body supply house.. The panel adhesives.. you can buy just one Tube ( there a two part tube mixed through a special mixing nozzle and applied with a special dual plunger calking gun ) So that application is left to a pro unless you know someone in the BIZ to barrow the tool.. PS you can't just but one nozzle/mixing tube.