Ad I found:
CHEVELLE Disk brake set up. Complete with booster, master and prop. valve. Removed from 69SS. Also fits El Camino Monte Carlo etc $350

Were these disk brakes the same in all 1969 396SS cars?

I see this thread has 21 views but no responses. Can't anyone give advice?

If this is for your new convertible project I don't really see why you would need another disc setup, You seem to have all of the parts on the car. I would just look at restoring your existing parts, if you need any replacement parts they can be picked up at any auto parts store or restoration supplier.
As far as the price on the setup goes I've seen these sell cheaper but it's not a bad price.
All 69's used the same disc setup SS or not(only standard eqiup. on SS), most of these parts are the same 69-72 although there were changes in prop. valve and master cylinder.

My new convertible brake setup is really rusty. So from your post I take it there's a good way to restore them? Any suggestions?

Chances are that if you buy another used setup they won't be much better, If you do a search on this forum you'll find places that do good work restoring brake components. Items like rotors, calipers, master cylinder, booster and brake lines can are readily available new if originality is not a concern, I'm not sure what you're planning for the car.
If you haven't yet get all of the supplier catalogues you can, usually if you go to their website you can order one and they'll have it to you pretty fast.

Here's a few
Groundup
Year One
NPD
Ausleys

Also if you're not currently using the search function you'll find it is an invalueable tool, I've been able to answer almost all of my questions through searches.

You already have a used set and now you want to pay 350 for another one? (if it all needs rebuild then kind of expensive). Like natjones said the stuff from 69-72 is basically the same. Do the following to the stuff you have: turn or replace your rotors. Buy new calipers, pads, master cylinder, and rubber hoses. (use your stuff as cores) Clean up the booster and if you want paint it with the kit from Eastwood. Repack the bearings. paint the spindle and brake shield.(sandblast first if necessary). Either wire brush till clean or replace the hard lines and proportioning valve. You can get a new proportioning valve from MPBrakes. Little pricey though.
Good luck with your project. The above is exactly what I am doing to a set for my 68 right now.

It's my understanding that this part circled is specific to 69's. Might want to ask some more questions if you're going to go for a factory type restoration. BTW that add has been in the recycler for weeks now. Bet they're ready to deal on it. Lance http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/lance-w/Master_Cyl.JPG

$350 is pretty expensive IMHO. I've never paid more than $160, and I've sold sets for $225. (this is for junk-yard stuff that needs rebuilding)

As already mentioned: If you add the cost for everything that you need to replace and rebuild on that junk yard set, it will probably be the same price or more than a brand new aftermarket set.

As far as I know, the only parts that are not available as correct repro are the spindles, so they may be worth some if you can buy them separately.

The part circled is available aftermarket. It came on midsize GM cars with disc brake from 67-70.

The part circled is available aftermarket. It came on midsize GM cars with disc brake from 67-70.

Year One lists them as a 1967-69 "brake metering/hold-off valve". (http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=0) I have got a combination valve like this (http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=0) on my car right now, but have been thinking about changing to the metering valve for a more correct look. Is there anything else that needs to be changed when doing this, or is it just a matter of swapping it out, bleed the brakes and go?

I think the bracket that comes with the repro 'front brake delay' metering valve is actually for the F and X body. It's a slightly different mounting than the Abody, but the valve is the same.

The metering/delay valve was used in conjunction with the 5 port brakelight switch used with the drum models, and on the 1970 Abody model also had a square proportioning valve near the rear axle. (This square valve was used on other cars 67-70 depending on application).

The combination valve you have most likely has all of these functions. I would stick with it unless you are going for 100% correct, in which case you would need the correct bracket too.

Without the rear proportioning valve, some of these cars liked to lock the rear brakes prematurely, esp if you have high front end weight or a forward rake.

Some vendors will call the delay valve a proportioning valve, but it is my opinion that the terms should not be interchanged. Proportioning is for the rear pressure, metering or delay is for front fluid flow.

Sounds like overkill for my car. I'm definitely not going for 100% original, I just think that this big, brass combination valve looks a bit "in your face" when you open the hood. But it works, and I'm lazy, so it will more than likely stay on the car.

If you really wante to replace everything then you could always just buy the spindles and and get parts from the local parts store. I have never looked into doing this that way but it may be a cheaper alternative. Besides, the old rotors and calipers would get replaced anyways.