Thinking of getting the #5248 adjustable uppers for my 70 Chevelle. It already has SSM's on the lowers. Last year I replaced the bushings on the rear for the stock uppers with factory style rubber bushings. Should I leave them in there or pull them out and install whatever comes with the Edelbrocks? Will my existing upper bushings even fit the Edelbrocks?

I am using them with stock rubber bushings in the axle and they work fine.

I already had polyurethane upper bushings in my diff. and installed the edelbrock double adj. upper arms with no issues. I also run SSM lower arms. Pace Performance has the best price on the edelbrock arms and I took the catalogue to Schucks and they matched the price, no shipping. Pace had the wrong part number in their cat. too.

I just installed the 5248 uppers in my 71. I used the wolferace craft spherical bearings in the rear end housing. The edelbrock kit comes with poly axel bushings, but I would stay with the stock ones, or get the wolferace crafts.

On a scale from mushy to rock hard, wouldn't the stock rubber be on the mushy end, the poly in the middle and the wolferace craft on the rock hard end? If so, why either go either end of the scale end and not the poly's that are supplied with them?

When I installed the edelbrock/ wolferace craft I removed the 4 poly uppers and I think that the ride is smoother over the bumps. The poly creates a suspention bind, not allowing it to move freely. So, I dont think that is a matter of hard or soft, but what allows the suspention to do the job. Do a search alot of info and opinions about that topic on this site. Either way you decide to go I think you will like the edelbrock uppers.

The poly creates a suspention bind, not allowing it to move freely. So, I dont think that is a matter of hard or soft, but what allows the suspention to do the job.
Bingo!!!

We use a heim joint on one end to be sure there is no bind. To use poly or not depends upon what the car is being used for. Our uppers are far superior to the Edlebrock uppers. Let me know what you are using the car for and I will try to help you. For more info go to dickmillerracing.com or call tech 662-233-2301.

Not that I endorse placing ads in open forum, and I definitely don't endorse slamming another vendors product (especially one that works) but I am curious as to what makes your links better than Edlebrocks.

I happen to know from my own testing and some testing done by some of the Mustang engineering firms that the Johny Joints do a much better job than spherical bearings do. I am also curious as to how using poly bushings, which have been proven to induce mechanical bind to the system, in a converging 4-link system are a "good" product.

Not that I endorse placing ads in open forum, and I definitely don't endorse slamming another vendors product (especially one that works) but I am curious as to what makes your links better than Edlebrocks.

I happen to know from my own testing and some testing done by some of the Mustang engineering firms that the Johny Joints do a much better job than spherical bearings do. I am also curious as to how using poly bushings, which have been proven to induce mechanical bind to the system, in a converging 4-link system are a "good" product.

Sorry if I upset you. I thought someone might be open to other possibilities. So I will go elsewhere!

When you did your testing did you actually make a pass and switch arms and make another pass or did you just try something and think that had to be the best since it was better than a couple of months ago?

Sorry if I upset you. I thought someone might be open to other possibilities. So I will go elsewhere!

When you did your testing did you actually make a pass and switch arms and make another pass or did you just try something and think that had to be the best since it was better than a couple of months ago?
My, just a bit over sensitive aren't we?

You will find that there are people here very open to possibilities. But it is also true that many of these same people will want more than just a generic statement that "ours is much better than theirs". It is very reasonable to be asked to back up such statements with real data.

If you really have a superior product, tell us how and why. If we agree, Dennis may very well be the first in line with $$$ in hand. Of course that is only if it makes for extreme cornering capabilities since Dennis does not do "passes", he does "laps" ;)

Where did Dennis get his engineering degree, and what qualifies him as a suspension expert? I'm not saying he isn't, but if he's the benchmark expert here determining what is "the best," I wanna know. I'm always happy to read EVERYONE'S input and think the "this way is best, your way sucks" mentality blows. I see it in every thread I read here lately. I'm not trying to **** down anyone's back, but for crying out loud, it's getting old real fast.

Where did Dennis get his engineering degree, and what qualifies him as a suspension expert? I'm not saying he isn't, but if he's the benchmark expert here determining what is "the best," I wanna know. I'm always happy to read EVERYONE'S input and think the "this way is best, your way sucks" mentality blows. I see it in every thread I read here lately. I'm not trying to **** down anyone's back, but for crying out loud, it's getting old real fast.

Well said, Steve! :thumbsup:

Well FWIW......I installed the Edelbrock adjustable uppers yesterday. Pretty easy install, the only hard part was removing the 35 years olds bolts through the upper mounts to the frame. Thank goodness for big impact guns and compressors. :) I like that pivoting head on the upper mount.
Now I just need to figure out where to put that pinion....up or down :confused:

You will find that there are people here very open to possibilities. But it is also true that many of these same people will want more than just a generic statement that "ours is much better than theirs". It is very reasonable to be asked to back up such statements with real data.

If you really have a superior product, tell us how and why. If we agree, Dennis may very well be the first in line with $$$ in hand. Of course that is only if it makes for extreme cornering capabilities since Dennis does not do "passes", he does "laps" ;)

Our powder coated upper or lower control arms arre made from Tig welded chrome moly which allower them to be the lightest weight and also strongest on the market. Our upper or lower adjusters are double adjustable so that all adjustments can be made without removing any arms or bolts. We use a stronger (3/4") heim joint reduced to the approiate bolt size for added strength. Plus you get instructions that tell you how to install and starting settings. All this backed by technical help from people that know what they are doing. Can you get better elsewhere?

Where did Dennis get his engineering degree, and what qualifies him as a suspension expert? I'm not saying he isn't, but if he's the benchmark expert here determining what is "the best," I wanna know.
Wow, that is exactly what I am asking DMR for and you are going to criticize me??? I didn't come in here saying my product is the best did I? In fact, I don't market a product, my projects are for my personal use only. I may at times offer to help someone else put something together but I have never stated that MY product was best. If a manufacturer is going to come in and claim all other products are inferior he better be able to back it up with some tech. I have not seen any tech from DMR to indicate his basic run of the mill 3/4" rod ends and swedged tubing is better than anybody else's. I will admit that I run my own 3/4" rod ends on swedged tubing for lowers on my car.

My degree??? How about 15 years of hands on every single day and 3 years of school at night (working on the paper thingy for you intellectual types that think it actually means something special)

Dick, testing was not done on a track but rather actually measured for resistance to movement in a controlled environment. Track testing is misleading as you know, I can easily create a system with over 200% A/S and hook like nothing else....of course it will ride like a tank and might not make the turn down the return road. 60' numbers do not impress me without unless you can also show that it does not hinder the vehicles ability to stop and turn properly. i will conceded that is nearly impossible to build a chassis to it "all" well. That doesn't mean that you need to totally sacrifice the "other" drivability factors just for the ultimate 60' number.

BTW, still waiting for "your" back to back number with DMR vs. Edlebrocks arms (lets make it fair and set the pinion at the same angle OK). You made the claim, I think you should be able to back it up. Sorry if I have offended any of the DMR disciples. Maybe someday you guys will do some thinking for yourselves instead of basing decisions on a manufactures unsubstantiated claims.

I'm always happy to read EVERYONE'S input and think the "this way is best, your way sucks" mentality blows. I see it in every thread I read here lately. I'm not trying to **** down anyone's back, but for crying out loud, it's getting old real fast.
If individuals don't want to know that the poly bushings they are planning to install or have already installed suck than I would suggest they use the search function to read the other threads before posting another one. Since those are the only component I have flat out stated "suck", that would eliminate that now wouldn't it. I "thought" when someone posted for advice about a specific type of system they wanted advice, not empty acceptance to make them fell better about their purchase.

If individuals don't want to know that the poly bushings they are planning to install or have already installed suck than I would suggest they use the search function to read the other threads before posting another one. Since those are the only component I have flat out stated "suck", that would eliminate that now wouldn't it. I "thought" when someone posted for advice about a specific type of system they wanted advice, not empty acceptance to make them fell better about their purchase.

I'm sorry Dennis but in all your numerous postings about the evils of poly bushings, never once have I seen PROOF to back up your claims.
OPINIONS yes; FACTS no.
As I've mentioned before, in MY application, poly bushings work just fine.
MY application would be defined as straight line drag racing with an occasional street cruise- NOT road, oval, circle, or NASCAR.
Suspension binding?? Hardly! :( Rough ride? If I wanted ride quality I'd be driving a Cadillac.
Moving 3750 lbs, 60 feet from a dead stop in 1.43 seconds on a fully equipped, street legal car is MY proof.
If I'm wrong...show me FACTS, guy!! I'll gladly change them out tomorrow.

Yikes guys, simmer down! Keep this civil.

Bill, the hard numbers Dennis speaks of were posted in an earlier thread I can't seem to find at the moment-- I think it was "all about poly" or something like that.

However, those resistance numbers in the older thread (in lbs/inch of rear movement) were derived being tested in a ROLL condition; that is one side fixed, the other moved up and down (i.e going around a turn, one side going over a bump, etc.) This is where all poly is very unfavorable because it adds a whole bunch of non-linear roll stiffness to the rear suspension making things unpredictable. There were no numbers tested in pure compression (both sides of the suspension moving upwards at once) which is what you'll be encountering drag racing the car. While I never took hard numbers years ago when I had all poly bushings, both roll and compression were pretty bad as far as resistance to movement, but pure compression was a much better case-- which is exactly what you're doing with your rear suspension on the strip. The all-poly wasn't as smooth and easy moving in compression as all factory-rubber, but the compression behavior of poly far FAR better than it's behavior in roll, which is why I junked them-- it led to very unpredictable and unsafe behavior in hard turns, especially over rough roads, namely skipping and snap oversteer.

I think we need to better define applications and goals here-- what works in a drag situation (lots of anti-squat) may not be the most ideal and safe for the street where cornering and braking are needed traits, and the drag setup may be terrible for a cornering/handling application as all that anti-squat will induce weird behavior under hard braking. Dennis is in the minority here going for handling prowess (as am I) and I know I feel out of place. I can't speak for him, but the reason I never chime in on 60' times, lift bars, upper arm relocations, etc, is not because I'm not interested in them, but because I have never experimented with those products, installed them, used them, or track tested them. Therefore I have nothing of value to add to those posts. I'm going out on a limb here speaking for Dennis as well but I'm 95% sure he's in my camp and hasn't tried any of these drag suspension setups. Dennis, correct me if I'm wrong.

However, for a street car, pro-touring car, or someone going for handling, then I can offer advice that I've gained over the years from parts swapping on this chassis and trying various combos. Straight line is definately not my forte unless that's the straight line between two turns, although I do have the power to turn some decent 1/4 mile time slips if my car could actually launch... right now I bake the tires from 40-75 mph, so needless to say a hard launch is out of the question for me. :clonk:

Our powder coated upper or lower control arms arre made from Tig welded chrome moly which allower them to be the lightest weight and also strongest on the market. Our upper or lower adjusters are double adjustable so that all adjustments can be made without removing any arms or bolts. We use a stronger (3/4") heim joint reduced to the approiate bolt size for added strength. Plus you get instructions that tell you how to install and starting settings. All this backed by technical help from people that know what they are doing. Can you get better elsewhere?
I think Dick has done everything right for a drag situation. He recognized bind is detrimental to ANY suspension, so he's gone with spherical joints. Can't argue with him on the material selection. Also can't argue on the double adjustable arms (that's the right way and the only way to do things.) About the only thing I see I would change for a frequently street driven car, I would have used Currie's Johnny Joints to offer a bit of NVH reduction; the heim ends can be a little harsh/noisy to live with every day. Can't fault them for performance reasons though. The package looks like an excellent bolt-on setup for drag use. Dick, is there any reason you didn't use heim joints at both ends of the lower arms? It seems like that is another place to help reduce bind.

Troy

lets stop arguing and take a look at my thread, I could use some help!!!
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92915

I think we need to better define applications and goals here--

EXACTLY my point, Troy. Thanks. :thumbsup:
No animosity here...just making the point that one size does not fit all.



lets stop arguing and take a look at my thread, I could use some help!!!

No arguing here...just pure discussion. In fact, take the time to read this topic and you'll have enough info to make a decision of your own based on YOUR application.

No arguing here...just pure discussion. In fact, take the time to read this topic and you'll have enough info to make a decision of your own based on YOUR application.

I have read it and have made my decision. Now I need to know how to install it correctly :)

I'm sorry Dennis but in all your numerous postings about the evils of poly bushings, never once have I seen PROOF to back up your claims.
OPINIONS yes; FACTS no. Open mouth and insert foot. Link to thread with the tech you so desperately seek (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30655&highlight=poly+bushings)
As I've mentioned before, in MY application, poly bushings work just fine.
MY application would be defined as straight line drag racing with an occasional street cruise- NOT road, oval, circle, or NASCAR.I have never argued that poly bushings won't help 60' times. My point has always been that I can just as easily accomplish the same thing substituting a section of tubing for the shock though-it still not the right way to go about it.
Suspension binding?? Hardly!I'll say it yet again, yes, it does bind. Trying to explain the difference between actual bushing bind and mech link bind has been a lesson in futility for me so I won't try again.

OK, so I installed the uppers and left my almost new (couple of years old) GM rubber busings in the housing. I have SSM's in the lowers. Looking for some clue as to where my pinion should be pointing. Trans is down 3.5 degrees, driveshaft is down 1 degree or so for an angle of 2.5 at the front. Some people say my pinion shoud be pointing up 3.5 degrees so I have 2.5 in the rear (equal and opposite of the front) and some people say that my pinion should never be pointed up. :confused:

I believe the instructions for my SSMs say to point the pinion down so there is between 2 and 4 degrees from the driveshaft to the pinion.

Now lets all join hands and sing Kumbya :)

More tech for ya'll;

Oh Lord, kumbaya. Also spelled kum ba yah, cumbayah, kumbayah, and probably a few other ways. If you look in a good songbook you'll find the word helpfully translated as "come by here," with the note that the song is "from Angola, Africa." The "come by here" part I'll buy. But Angola? Someone's doubtin', Lord, for the obvious reason that kumbaya is way too close to English to have a strictly African origin. More likely, I told my assistant Jane, it comes from some African-English pidgin or creole--that is, a combination of languages. (A pidgin is a linguistic makeshift that enables two cultures to communicate for purposes of trade, etc.; a creole is a pidgin that has become a culture's primary language.) Sure enough, when we look into the matter, we find this conjecture is on the money. Someone's grinnin', Lord, kumbaya.

Kumbaya apparently originated with the Gullah, an African-American people living on the Sea Islands and adjacent coastal regions of South Carolina and Georgia. (The best known Sea Island is Hilton Head, the resort area.) Having lived in isolation for hundreds of years, the Gullah speak a dialect that most native speakers of English find unintelligible on first hearing but that turns out to be heavily accented English with other stuff mixed in. The dialect appears in Joel Chandler Harris's "Uncle Remus" stories, to give you an idea what it sounds like. In the 1940s the pioneering linguist Lorenzo Turner showed that the Gullah language was actually a creole consisting of English plus a lot of words and constructions from the languages of west Africa, the Gullahs' homeland. Although long scorned as an ignorant caricature of English, Gullah is actually a language of considerable charm, with expressions like (forgive my poor attempt at expressing these phonetically) deh clin, dawn (literally "day clean"); troot mout, truthful person ("truth mouth"), and tebble tappuh, preacher ("table tapper").

And of course there's kumbayah. According to ethnomusicologist Thomas Miller, the song we know began as a Gullah spiritual. Some recordings of it were made in the 1920s, but no doubt it goes back earlier. Published versions began appearing in the 1930s. It's believed an American missionary couple taught the song to the locals in Angola, where its origins were forgotten. The song was then rediscovered in Angola and brought back here in time for the folksinging revival of the 50s and 60s. People might have thought the Gullahs talked funny, but we owe them a vote of thanks. Can you imagine sitting around the campfire singing, "Oh, Lord, come by here"?


Jim, your pinion should be set as you already think it should. It should be equal but opposite the transmission. Try to get working angles as low as possible without actually being zero. 1/2* works well. I would see if you can shim up the trans a little. If you could actually get the transmission to the "up" position you could run the pinion down to get pretty close to zero on launch (good for hook).

Shimming the trans up 1" (as much as I can go without puting that 1350 yoke into the tunnel) makes the tail angle 2.5 instead of 3.5. Let's say I split the difference and raise the tail 1/2". My trans angle would = 3 degrees pointed down. My driveshaft would = 1 degree down giving me a 2 degree working u-joiunt angle at the front. So are you saying I should have the rear pinion pointing up 3 degrees (pinion yoke aimed at the rear seat, not the ground)?

Coom bye yah to everybody!!! :D

Here is the reason I am asking these questions>>>> My pinion angle post (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92480)

I'm assuming the "open mouth and insert foot" comment was directed at yourself...:(

Copy and pasted directly from the link you've provided above:
If your ONLY concern is how quick it runs the 1320, then go ahead and run the poly stuff. It will decrease your 60ft times as running all poly will act similiar to a ladder bar arrangment by locking the axle rotation up. Your call.

Thanks for re-enforcing my point! :thumbsup:

I should note the emphasis on ONLY. I meant like ONLY on the track, not even driving to and from.

http://www.explodingdog.com/dumbpict51/stupidfight.gif

Need I say more?

You two should just agree to disagree and leave it at that.

I don't understand why some people will not look at what the pro teams are doing. ProStock does not use poly and they could. Wolferace craft could use poly and they don't. Dick Miller only uses poly in 1 of 4 locations. I think that should say something. I have had rubber bushings that I switched to poly, I removed the poly form the uppers and installed the edelbrock uppers and the wolferace craft bearings. I noticed a better ride, and handling as for 60 foot times I have made too many changes to the car compair time slips.

I am no expert or seriuos racer with my chevelle. I cruise around town burn some rubber and 5-6 times a year go to the drags. When it comes to bushing choice I can not see using a product the does not allow the suspention syestem to do its job. If you are a hard core drag guy I would think that you would want your suspention to work freely and consistantly so you could actualy tune your skocks, springs and geomerty.

Wow if ALL you guys would read the WHOLE thread before going off things would be much more amicable in here! Start by comparing apples to apples. If your going racing in a straight line heims and poly is fine, if your a circle track guy heims are best, if you want a decent ride with the best compromise the edelbrock and rubber set-up seems good at this time without going whole hog. This info is FWIW, IMO so if you don't like it please feel free to ignore it or go and spend mega $$$ to test all the options yourself. Ralph

I saw Currie's "Johnny Joints" at the Power Tour this weekend. They make upper and lower links. JJs are only on one end with poly on the other. Both have zerks, too. Very stout pieces, excellent welds, satin black powdercoat(!!!) and swaybar mounts.

Do I dare say these look like the end-all 4-links for the street? Naahhhh.....

I saw Currie's "Johnny Joints" at the Power Tour this weekend. They make upper and lower links. JJs are only on one end with poly on the other. Both have zerks, too. Very stout pieces, excellent welds, satin black powdercoat(!!!) and swaybar mounts.

Do I dare say these look like the end-all 4-links for the street? Naahhhh.....
I have a buddy working on some knock-offs with JJ on both ends. I think those may be the end all. :D

Per Currie, having all JJs will not allow the rearend to remain centered: It will just float around and be useless. Unless you put in a panhard.

I think that comment from Currie is ok......but only to a point. I think what is happening is that the axle is held in place (for the most part) by the uneven length control arms added to the fact that the upper control arms are angled. I am not speaking of an angle in the verticle direction, but angled from a wide to narrow plane. On an A body the UCA's are closer together at the axle mount and further apart at the frame mount points. If all arms were fixed in the same direction, same length uppers and lowers, directly parallel with the frame, and all mounts included JJ's or Heim joints, then the axle would float left to right (without rotating). If the axle were mounted to the frame via uneven arms all in the same direction that is parallel to the frame....(the uppers short and the lowers long) then the axle would move left to right however it would rotate due to the shorter upper arm radius compared to the longer lower arms. A panhard bar would then hold the axle centered. Think about this, the factory has rubber bushings in all locations which have a decent amount of give...nothing like a Heim or JJ but there is still a certain amount of give with rubber....yet the axle remains pretty much centered underneath. Any other input is welcome, what do you think about this?

Sam

Per Currie, having all JJs will not allow the rearend to remain centered: It will just float around and be useless. Unless you put in a panhard.
Interesting considering I have JJ in the uppers, spherical bearings at all other other points and short of running a PHB my axle is the most solid C4L on the planet at this point.

Interesting considering I have JJ in the uppers, spherical bearings at all other other points and short of running a PHB my axle is the most solid C4L on the planet at this point.

Don't you run some outrageously tight tire clearances (like 1/8" to the outer lip) or something like that with no rubbing problems at all???

Try that with Rubber or Poly :D

Don't you run some outrageously tight tire clearances (like 1/8" to the outer lip) or something like that with no rubbing problems at all???

Why yes, I do.

Back to my adjustable uppers......The instructions say to adjust them both equally but someone told me that one side affectes front-to-back squaring of the rear and the other one affects the pinion angle. Looking at them closely, they are on different angles. Is the pass side bar used for back/forth movement, and the driver side bar for rotational pinion angle??

I think whomever you were speaking with wasn't clear on what they meant.Typically the the lowers set the axle location and uppers are used to adjust pinion angle. Top vs. bottom not right vs. left.

Wow, this has gotten off subject, but all this talk of unsafe poly makes me a bit nervous. It would be a great topic for one of the magazines to do some track testing on to see if this is really a safety hazard. Talk about a lawsuit waiting to happen...
For me, I have tried both and never had a problem with either. My car is 100% a daily driver and has never seen a drag strip. I do autocross it from time to time and never noticed a difference between the two. My one note is that I replaced the mangled origional factory bushings with new oem rubber bushings in 1993. They lasted about 10 years, and by 2003 they were in poor shape again, so I replaced them with poly at all four corners. I did this mostly hoping not to have to replace all the rubber bushings every ten years, long before I heard any of the points of this thread.
Either way, having autocrossed with rubber and poly, I did not realize any real difference between the two, but I promise you I will be looking much more closely at it now.
Either way, a 4000lb+ four door Chevelle makes for an interesting creature at an autocross...they usually to make the course a bit wider just for me!

If you search this forum, at around November(?), Dennis went 2 out of 3 falls for about 200 responses in the string on poly bushings in a 4L rear. Nobody ever said anything about unsafe, just unwise due to binding. The facts and test results are in that and one other string.:)

Let me see if I can help with the decussion here. I am one of the engineers here who did the original design work on the Adjustable Upper Trailing Arms, the resaon for us offering the Adjustable arms were two fold. The first and main reason was to correct pinion angle when using the Edelbrock No-Hop bar #5213 in certain applications. The rear ride height can seriously affect the pinion angle with and without No-Hop bars, we felt that an adjustable arm could be benificial to our customers. The second reason was the application of the Spherical Joint on the frame end, this was to reduce the bind in the stock suspension design, especially with the No-Hop bars. I'm not going lower myself to blasting other companies or indiviual designs, we did what our experience and engineering showed to be best.

The persons involved in the suspension development have over 50 years in suspension and racing. I myself have been setting up these type of cars for over 20 years and have intimate working experience with the angled 4 bar rear suspension. The original design had bind built it to locate the rear end in the vehicle under cornering loads, this was accomplished with the angled upper trailing arms, this design doesn't require the use of a panhard rod or Watts link. The Edelbrock team that designed the upper arm decussed the advantages to using spherical joints in the lower trailing arms at one or both ends along with the adjustable arms. The conclusion that was reached was that one could make the rear of the vehicle too free and cause the rear end to go into a rear steer condition (read very bad) this would be without the use of a laterial locating devise such as a panhard rod. The Lower Trailing arms are in a parellel plane to the centerline of the vehicle so putting heims or a spherical joint in the lower trailing arms conjunction with the upper arms spherical ends would require the use of some sort of laterial locating devise.

We at Edelbrock Suspension felt the use of the poly bushing was the best all around solution for the majority of customers, the use of rubber upper arm bushing would give too much under certain load conditions and a spherical bushing would give unacceptable ride hasrhness and while giving a greater articulation from side to side would cause a very unacceptable rear steer condition.

The testing that has been presented here comparing ploy to rubber to a spherical type bushing is not a very good test. There is a great drag on ploy in the plane of rotation without the side loading than a bearing type joint, think about it, one is like comparing a roller bearing to metal to metal contact. How much travel or rolling does the rear suspension really experience anyway? The sway bar is designed to control rolling of vehicle, I know that some would say that the rear sway bar isn't required just up the spring rate, and yes that will work at the expense of ride quality, along with having to get your own shock developed to control such a spring, this is just beyond the average garage mechanic. Besides the rear sway bar help launch the vehicle straighter in a drag racing situation when air bags aren't installed in the rear springs.

I hope this clears up why the use of the ploy in the Edelbrock Adjustable Trailing Arms.

I will come back from time to time and check this forum to answer questions and take suggestions on existing products or anything you thing we could build to improve the GM A-body.

Edelsup- do you feel the uppers need to be relocated? This seems like a very controversial "opinion". Many feel the need for the lowers to be parrallel to the ground and the uppers to be slightly raised at the housing location. Others have stated go with all bars in stock location just use an adj upper. Also I was curious if there were any plans for a Chrome molly tubular lower?

The mounting points of the arms determine the SVSA which dictates the amount of anti-squat to the chassis. Raising the upper axle mount increases AS which is great for 1/4 racing...not so good for a daily driver or road course type car as it also increases the potential for brake hop.

The mounting points of the arms determine the SVSA which dictates the amount of anti-squat to the chassis. Raising the upper axle mount increases AS which is great for 1/4 racing...not so good for a daily driver or road course type car as it also increases the potential for brake hop.

This is correct, except you can run relocated on the street but it isn't recommented. I have always tried to get the lower arm level with the ground. I run No-hops #5213 on the street and have no problems and yes the car does corner reasonably well, if you have traction off the corner the car comes out hard due to the added Anti-squat.

Dennis you need to be careful with the abbrevation, I'm not getting the SVSA? Is this what you are calling the Instant Center for the rear arms?

Side View Swing Arm, the measurement of the imaginary lines that runs through the upper and lower arms to the point where they would intersect.

SVSA is the measurement that determines the IC.